Not to say that it couldn't happen, but anytime I had a converter do that it was in the converter clutch solenoid.
348 To 380 Dyno results
- Thread starter Tim
- Start date
even with no power to it?
Yes, the valve in the solenoid hangs up.
Debris in the solonid can cause that.It's the solonid that tells the clutch to operate.We had a period of time mostly on the 125 c 's that would do that after the trans was warmed up.It acted like a manual trans that you didn't disengauge the clutch.The solonoid was the issue.
Seem to remember the trans go shift kit did some magic in the valve body that would eliminate the converter clutch solenoid with a check ball under it. There has been some water under the bridge since I have been in one.
Yes.
To change that solenoid, drop the pan, pull the bolt, pull the solenoid, push new one in bolt it down. You can drive it without the TCC wired and working, however I would not do it for a long period of time. If I remember right the fluid going through there is part of the cooling of the trans. As for a converter, everyone has an opinion, and I will throw in mine even though you didn't mention the rear gear ratio. I would find an stock GM HD21 ( I think ) It stalls 1800 to 2100. My reason is if you are driving the car regularly and not racing it, with that heavy of a car you would get a better quality of driving with the lower stall. I have the same setup as you basically. I went to a 2400 stall converter. Definitely noticed the difference leaving stop lights etc, unless I wanted to get on it more. I will go back to the 1800/2100 when I change my flywheel.
Second column is what to inspect, the third is cause.
I would also remove #25 snap ring and all the valve and springs that fallow it and make sure the valve is not hanging up.
Jeff, the converter in it now is exactly that a GM stock one. The trans was a GM replacement and came with the converter. Ill get the guy that rebuilt the trans to do the solenoid and pull the valve, I paid them well and if it was a new part in there and failed it’s warranty. If he doesn’t want to do it I’ll do it myself. I can get my parts Dept to get the parts.
Rear ratio is 3.73
Rear ratio is 3.73
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Jeff, Tires on the back are 275/40R18. 26.7 diameter aabd 757 revs per mile. About the same as what was on it 255/60R15. It is the HD. The transmission was a replacement in a 3/4 ton panel van.
My speed calculator has it at 2300 rpm at 70MPH. 3.73/26.7/.70-1
My speed calculator has it at 2300 rpm at 70MPH. 3.73/26.7/.70-1
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I was just rounding in my head because I didn't know the tire size. I am thinking of moving to the 3.73's when I build the 12 bolt I have. If I remember the math I did, I will be in the 22/2300 range. My cam seems to like about 2700 and up if you want some power from it. Now I am about 1800 at 70 or so mph in OD and locked up.
That just depends on your stall speed. As I understand it: Higher stall means bigger drop. If you haven't reached your stall yet and you hit the lock up then it should drop further. That general rule of 200rpm drop could be for a factory stall convertor. I was always told by transmission guys that a 2000 stall is for RV's and trucks in a 700r4.