I would get the lockup issue fixed and try it with the stock converter, with 3.73's and torque multiplication of an auto trans. my guess would be you will be quite happy with it.TC stall rating is not only variable with car weight but also engine torque,my guess is your engine makes much more torque than any engine that came stock with a 700R4.If you do decide to go with a looser converter make sure to upgrade trans cooling if you haven't already.Remember the old redneck stall converters the Vega?
348 To 380 Dyno results
- Thread starter Tim
- Start date
I got the solenoid part to replace today. We are getting a hurricane today and tomorrow so I have it going in Thursday to get that put in. Hoping that’s the simple fix. I’ll take that valve out James said and make sure it isn’t stuck too. If that doesn’t work I have a 2000 stall converter I bought from a friend that was new and he tested it in his truck( didn’t like the lower stall and replaced with 3400). There’s only 60 miles on it but it works. If I have to I’ll put it in. As for cooling I put a new 4 core aluminum rad in and it has the transmission cooler in it and lines are already hooked up
yes I remember the Vega’s! Those were like pocket rockets!
I still have a couple of Vega converters behind v8s here. One that was rebuilt with Torrington bearing is behind a L88 in a 64.
Tim you should be fine with either of those converters if you were to get closer to 3000 there is enough extra heat generated from slip that I would run an additional cooler with the one in the radiator.Tom I'm glad to see somebody still believes in them,back in the 70's and early 80's they were the shizzle on the street,so many guys poo-pooed them saying they would fail immediately but my experience was that as long as it wasn't in a full race car,they generally held up fine to occasional blasts on the street,now being repeatedly subjected to full throttle launches would kill a stock one in fairly short order.Also the Vega was definitely one that you needed to upgrade the cooling for.
Dang the luck, I hate those stick in a spoke deals. 
This morning I managed to find a solenoid at a parts place. I showed the guy a picture and he went and looked because he seen it on the shelf. Crossed the part and it was it. Got it put in this afternoon and at first it was good. Didn’t stall or act up. Drove home and got it hot and now it’s doing what it did before. 
the old solenoid was definitely stuck and didn’t rattle like the new one. Part of the bigger problem?
the old solenoid was definitely stuck and didn’t rattle like the new one. Part of the bigger problem?
Did they remove the valve from the pump and check it?
Yes it is, not easiest thing to get to with transmission fluid dripping in your eyes.
They did it in our shop and up on Jack stands. I’ll have to get it to a hoist and get it done again. I showed them the pic you sent and they didn’t see what I showed them. I can understand why they didn’t go farther. Our guys are diesel mechanics and don’t really work on cars.
You will need internal snap ring pliers with a long reach.
If you look at the picture I posted of the pump the convert clutch valve is under # 25 snap ring, there is only one spool valve in that hole and on or two springs. Remove the snap ring, valve stop, valve and springs. Then you will install the valve without the spring back in the bore with a magnet on a stick so you can work the valve up and down through its full travel and feel for any snags or tight spots.
Quick update, there’s a guy here named Rick Rood. He’s been known for sometime as a transmission wizard. He’s over an hour away so a local guy rebuilt the transmission for me. He didn’t do anything wrong and after talking to Rick the converter is the issue. He says the torque of the engine is bogging it down and locking the converter because it wants to move. He also said it needs the corvette governor because the one in it isn’t right for what the engine is. Also the TV cable having it adjusted from first to second gear at “20mph” isn’t necessarily the right way. It should be done with the choke disconnected and the pan off watching when the cable starts to move. Doing it at 20 mph gets skewed by the rear end ratio so in my case ends up at 15mph with 3.73
having said all that the car is going to him and he will tune it accordingly and put a 2000 stall converter in it to try first. If I like it leave it. If not put a 24 in it.
having said all that the car is going to him and he will tune it accordingly and put a 2000 stall converter in it to try first. If I like it leave it. If not put a 24 in it.
I agree with that man 100 percent.Where in the world did they come up with that wacky tv adjustment procedure???????????? As to the Vette governor yes with the detent[tv] adjusted correctly the full throttle upshifts will occur much higher[as high as 5200 in some cases] rpm making the shift points at full throttle much closer to your engines power peak.The truck governor was likely around 4500 on a tbi truck.As to the convertor,go with the 2400,you'll love the off the line kick.
Your street tires not so much.Get the clutch hooked up as per factory meaning both third and 4 th.gears at part throttle,there are kits for that and he'll know about them.
Your street tires not so much.Get the clutch hooked up as per factory meaning both third and 4 th.gears at part throttle,there are kits for that and he'll know about them.
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