348 Tri-Power - Advice needed

[Noel Edgar]

Thank you for your input Don - like I have said before I am a novice at this and I will bounce these suggestions off my "car guys" before I make any decisions - I do agree - don't want to have a nice looking motor that doesn't run...lol

Noel

 

[Gofish]

That’s a great point Don. I’ll change to the one in the intake manifold.

Noel, it is a 1931 model A coupe on a Gary Dagel frame. The alternator bracket is from Alan Groves Components. I modified it slightly to make more room between the alternator and the frame, but it works (there are smaller alternators too). I also modified their bracket for a Sanden A/C compressor on the opposite side. That one was for a small block Chevy and attaches where the mechanical fuel pump goes - I modified it a bit as well and had to go with an electric pump, but I have A/C and it’s unobtrusive.

 

[Don Jacks]

I'd love to see pictures of your a/c compressor and mounting brackets please.

 

[Gofish]

I don’t have any good pictures of the AC bracket, but I included what I have. The alternator is Alan Groves 237L (for the 348/409); the AC is their 106R (small block Chevy). The mods I made were to cut them up a bit and reform them to get the alternator a bit tighter to the block and to move the AC compressor forward or aft a bit (can’t remember which way) to align with the water pump pulley of the 348. As you can see both accessories are pretty well hidden between the engine and frame. I still need to fab a lower radiator hose that won’t interfere with the AC belt, but it’s possible. I also notched the front cross member for clearance at the AC pulley. I didn’t want to put the accessories up top and distract from the natural beauty of the W engine. It’s a fenderless and hoodless hot rod. Hope to be driving it this summer.

 

[Noel Edgar]

Wow again - I am impressed - getting the alternator down like that would be great - not sure I can manage that but I am going to take a look for sure. I had to extend my oil filler because the alternator is so tight. Just shows you need to think outside the box.

Thx

Noel

 

[Gofish]

I don’t see anything wrong with the location of your alternator - it’s a great looking car. I just wanted to get mine out of sight as much as I could due to the lack of fenders, etc. That went double for my AC compressor.

 

[ragtp66]

Could you drill and tap the rear coolant crossover in the intake and then the wire would be very close to the firewall out of sight and just use a flush plug to fill the hole where the sender is now?

 

[Don Jacks]

Yes you could.The temp gauge readings would likely be a little different from what you are used to seeing,likely a little cooler,but consistent enough to be safe once you get used to it.

 

[Gofish]

Hey Don, I moved my temp sender today by swapping the new one from the radiator with the old one from the intake manifold. I ran it a while to mix up some antifreeze and checked temps at both senders to let you know the difference. Wouldn’t you know, the old sender now in the radiator doesn’t work. Thanks for the tip though, I feel a lot better about the temp readings now.

John

 

[ragtp66]

2 things come to mind. Might have to run a ground to the radiator tank mounting strap. Also if you used teflon tape pull it back out remove the tape and use thread sealer. The teflon tape will interfere with how it grounds. I am sure the flames will come at me but I will say it anyway teflon tape was never used from the factory. If you look at any sensor, fitting etc they were always installed bare or with thread sealer. If my word isn't good here is a explanation from those that make the sending units. click on the link then go down to the tab that says It's not working (lectric limited products) https://www.lectriclimited.com/faq/