348 Tri-Power Build gone wrong / Follow New Rebuild

'37-4D

Well Known Member
R45ts spark plugs are not the right spark plugs for the 333 heads your using. They are way to short and the wrong sealing surface for those heads. I’m sure Don will be along with the correct number for you to use. What plugs did you take out? Wonder if the wrong plugs were used and part of your lower than expected power on the dyno?
@nana1962409 @Don Jacks @Tim SORRY, I made a mistake: we used R45xls with gasket seat! and on the dyno it was R43xls. Ooopsy daisy!!! :crazy my bad!!!!
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
OK,it's now back to timing.A freind called me and we were thinking that if this thing did have the wrong plugs in it it would likely show more power at the wheels with the right plugs than it did at the flywheel.:wtf
 
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'37-4D

Well Known Member
OK,it's now back to timing.A freind called me and we were thinking that if this thing did have the wrong plugs in it it would likely show more power at the wheels with the right plugs than it did at the flywheel.:wtf
We will check timing but they marked it on the distributor so it was ok. We tried moving it 1/4" anti clockwise to get it to start easier, but that wasn't the issue. At least yesterday lol, the starter and the lean on the car on the jacks were. Will know better in next few days. :)
 

'37-4D

Well Known Member
Quick update:

To start, we discovered that the same shoddy guys that screwed me in the first place had not rebuilt the carbs as invoiced.
My guys threw in a quick kit temp until I get a pro to look at them. Floats were wrong, parts missing inside, etc...

We now have a new starter, new battery, checked everything by process of elimination and we are down to the igniter. We just ordered a new one. My dudes probably left the key in the ON position and it smoked the Pertronix ignition module :facepalm :dunno2

7x3Jn0Y.jpg


I believe these guys were missing in the centre carb. I scavenged them from a set I had at home
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Send the guys these along with the extra carbs in case. One of the needles was bent, disaster....
1W2zrL4.jpg

Carbs all good now. Might get them rechecked in the spring by a friend that specializes just in case.
 
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427John

Well Known Member
It looks like your carbs were built from non tripower carbs based on the aluminum base plate in the one picture,original bases would be iron.This won't be a problem if they knew what they were doing,but I suspect they didn't.You may want to reach out to someone that knows their way around the 2g tripowers and see what they recommend for the venturi clusters they made several different ones and the one shown in your pics looks to be one of the smallest,there will be an id number cast or stamped into them near one of the holdown screws.Also some passages will need to be plugged so make sure those have been done.I'm in the same boat as I'm building some carbs for mine too,If I can find out which clusters I need I've got a pretty good assortment and hopefully will have the ones I need.I'm guessing that at least the outboard carbs will need to be the same.
 

'37-4D

Well Known Member
It looks like your carbs were built from non tripower carbs based on the aluminum base plate in the one picture,original bases would be iron.This won't be a problem if they knew what they were doing,but I suspect they didn't.You may want to reach out to someone that knows their way around the 2g tripowers and see what they recommend for the venturi clusters they made several different ones and the one shown in your pics looks to be one of the smallest,there will be an id number cast or stamped into them near one of the holdown screws.Also some passages will need to be plugged so make sure those have been done.I'm in the same boat as I'm building some carbs for mine too,If I can find out which clusters I need I've got a pretty good assortment and hopefully will have the ones I need.I'm guessing that at least the outboard carbs will need to be the same.

The first guys might have messed around with the base plate. I recall something but can't be sure.
As to whether or not they are true tripower carbs, this question goes out to @Tom Kochtanek who sold me the whole set up on the manifold.
@Tom Kochtanek , can you confirm please :)
 
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Tom Kochtanek

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 13
I just saw this:

"As to whether or not they are true tripower carbs, this question goes out to @Tom Kochtanek who sold me the whole set up on the manifold.
@Tom Kochtanek , can you confirm please :)"


I don't recall the specifics, I had acquired three sets of tripower intakes and carbs in search of a 1961 date code. I think one intake had a 1959 casting the other 1958 (I kept the 1961 date coded setup as it matched the time frame for my '61 BA. I sold both to members on this Forum. Is yours the one that sold for something like $500 and did it have just two of the carbs when shipped? Pretty sure those were not "correct" tripower carbs :(.

Best, TomK
 

'37-4D

Well Known Member
I just saw this:

"As to whether or not they are true tripower carbs, this question goes out to @Tom Kochtanek who sold me the whole set up on the manifold.
@Tom Kochtanek , can you confirm please :)"


I don't recall the specifics, I had acquired three sets of tripower intakes and carbs in search of a 1961 date code. I think one intake had a 1959 casting the other 1958 (I kept the 1961 date coded setup as it matched the time frame for my '61 BA. I sold both to members on this Forum. Is yours the one that sold for something like $500 and did it have just two of the carbs when shipped? Pretty sure those were not "correct" tripower carbs :(.

Best, TomK

@Tom Kochtanek Mine had all 3 carbs mounted on the manifold. And it was for $400 or $500 yes I believe! You built a sublime box for it to be shipped to Canada LOL
 

'37-4D

Well Known Member
So, carbs are good for now. There where all sorts of mismatched parts in there. I will have them professionally rebuilt during the winter. But for now they are good.
The issue was the igniter. That is fixed now. Needs to be timed properly (on Friday)
I think we worked out a lot of bugs. With new motor, new carbs, new starter, new igniter in the dis. she will be reliable.

 

Gofish

Well Known Member
Quick update:

To start, we discovered that the same shoddy guys that screwed me in the first place had not rebuilt the carbs as invoiced.
My guys rebuilt them. Floats were wrong, parts missing inside, etc...

We now have a new starter, new battery, checked everything by process of elimination and we are down to the igniter. We just ordered a new one. My dudes probably left the key in the ON position and it smoked the Pertronix ignition module :facepalm :dunno2

7x3Jn0Y.jpg


I believe these guys were missing in the centre carb. I scavenged them from a set I had at home
9xtrTUZ.jpg
yONoPdJ.jpg
b21CQq4.jpg
rEqj1Ff.jpg
s2RBPok.jpg
jJbe256.jpg
z05eJwM.jpg


Send the guys these along with the extra carbs in case. One of the needles was bent, disaster....
1W2zrL4.jpg

Carbs all good now. Might get them rechecked in the spring by a friend that specializes just in case.


Those perforated tubes you show (can’t recall their name right now) were only used on the center carb and even then only on the early (maybe just ‘58) applications. That info comes from a GM tri-power booklet I have.

Another thing you might look for is whether your accelerator pumps are among those requiring an aluminum check ball at the bottom of the well. This is different than the steel ball under the spring in one of your pictures. There is a recess in the accelerator pump well for the ball if needed, and without the ball the accelerator pump shot will be inadequate. Like the perforated tubes, not all carbs used the accelerator pump well check ball. I had worked on quite a few 2Gs from the 60s and 70s, but never knew about the check ball until working on my 348 tri-power carbs.
 

'37-4D

Well Known Member
Those perforated tubes you show (can’t recall their name right now) were only used on the center carb and even then only on the early (maybe just ‘58) applications. That info comes from a GM tri-power booklet I have.

Another thing you might look for is whether your accelerator pumps are among those requiring an aluminum check ball at the bottom of the well. This is different than the steel ball under the spring in one of your pictures. There is a recess in the accelerator pump well for the ball if needed, and without the ball the accelerator pump shot will be inadequate. Like the perforated tubes, not all carbs used the accelerator pump well check ball. I had worked on quite a few 2Gs from the 60s and 70s, but never knew about the check ball until working on my 348 tri-power carbs.
Thx for the info!
Yea, I've watched a bunch of videos on YouTube and saw the part about the ball for fuel squirts on the Venturi side. I contacted a guy. I will be removing the carbs soon and send them off to him. He knows tri power well. He will rebuild them for me if need be and tune them on his bench using my new cam spec sheet.
 
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