Just wondering how these heads (3819333) would run on a 348 single notch motor stroked and bored out to 438 cid with I-con 10.8 cr pistons. Would it breath good and would I still be able to use pump gas?
When ported,and big valves [2.19-1.72] are installed,yes they'll pull hard to about 6,000 rpm.Pump gas[91-93 octane] will not be a problem here as you should come out at about 10.25 when you get the quench right and use proper tuning.
Sometimes that cost saving just evaporates, unless you are prepared and able to do a lot of the work yourself. Resurrecting a set of iron heads (even if they are cheap/ free and in perfect shape) is not always cost effective, and qualified machine shops aren't cheap either. It might make more sense on a "W" than say, an SBC, but it still might not pencil out. Porting 50 year old iron heads can be a kind of a trap for the unwary.
I think Jason was able to do a lot on his own, and got great results, so if you are so inclined, go for it.
While I have no first hand experience with Edelbrocks heads for the W based on posts here regarding quality issues lately with E-brock stuff,it makes you question the validity of statements about the cost effectiveness of lower priced aluminum heads.I have seen the results of some other brands of lower cost heads and you typically end up performing as much or more machining than it takes to rehabilitate a set of irons,plus the fact that its not unusual to still have to do some port work also to get to the level of performance desired.That is all cost that needs to be added on top of the purchase price,I don't know if I've ever talked to anyone that was completely satisfied with the level of performance and quality of the usual suspects of aftermarket head suppliers.They frequently were not able to bolt them on out of the box and get the numbers they expected.Of course these remarks do not apply to the lower volume high quality head suppliers,but then you are usually looking at a higher purchase price.
I do fully agree though that if you are unable to do some of the work yourself and will have to pay some one else the going shop rate then costs will rapidly escalate.I can't imagine anyone being happy with a set of 333's that they have a $1000 to 1500 wrapped up in.
John notes: "I can't imagine anyone being happy with a set of 333's that they have a $1000 to 1500 wrapped up in."
Arrrrgh! Foiled again. I've got a set of bare 333s with maybe 30 hours of port work done by the one and only Ronnie Russell . Not sure what they're going on, but I gotta use 'em sometime as a tribute to RR. I envision a 6x2 multiple carb setup on those heads atop a 348 build...
I've been lucky in finding 690s and 583s at great prices from time to time. Just need to be patient and persevere.
I think that it's going to depend on what you plan to do with the engine.For example;if you're looking for power,as in 500 plus,then no,go big port,even though it's more expensive.If you're shooting for a slightly better than 1 hp.per inch,say 450-460 real horsepower,then the 333's would be a good option.New aluminum heads,in "off the shelf "trim are going to set you back about 24-2500 dollars.Core 583's or 690's will normally cost you at least half that,plus the cost of the machine work plus the needed parts,such as valves,guides,seals,springs,studs,ect.A set of 333's that come in at a total cost of 12-1500 dollars is not at all a bad deal.Tom,if you're going to do a tribute to Ronnie using those 333's,then said engine MUST be a 409,not some,as you put it a "Jr.Varsity" 348.
Sorry I am late to the party here. Summers are really busy for me. I did all the port work myself with some messaging back and forth with good ole Ronnie! Gasket matched everything, bullet shaped the guide bosses. Just basic stuff really. I'm no pro. Then the heads were treated to a 3-angle valve job, screw in studs with Scorpion roller rockers, 3/8 pushrods, Tony Shaffer's guide plates, stainless 1-piece valves...here are the basics for my engine:
814 truck block taken roughly .030 over (4.350 bore)
stock 409 crank
Eagle 6.135" forged I-beam rods
Diamond Racing pistons 10.25:1 net compression
333 heads ported/polished/bowl blending/gasket match and cleanup
2.195 swirl polished stainless intake valve turned down to 2.150 final size
1.725 swirl polished stainless ext valve turned down to 1.675 final size with hardened seats
Valves are backcut/3-angle valve job
Comp solid cam: 242/246 @.050 (272/276 advertised dur) with .595/.608 lift on a 110 LSA
Isky solid lifters with EDM oiling holes
Cloyes double roller timing chain
Comp dual springs
Scorpion 1.75 roller rockers
Eddy small port 2x4 intake
1/2" phenolic spacers
Eddy AVS 500cfm carbs
Jardine big tube tri-Y headers
3" stainless exhaust built by the master, Ron Wesley of Clocks Off Racing
Engine made 473hp and 460lb/ft torque in 91 degree humid Missouri air in July. Its a legit 500hp on pump fuel in better air.
Tom,I am by no means smack talking 333's especially some with high quality port work.Any cost for that is money already spent and there 's no point second guessing that,besides there is more value in them for you because of who did them.I didn't make it clear that my remarks are limited to a situation where someone has a choice of buying a set of 333's and then paying someone the going shop rate to port and rebuild them or buy a set of potentially better performing aluminums.My main point is that someone who has the ability and desire to do their own porting can lower the cost of a set of 333's making them more attractive provided the level of desired performance falls within the boundaries of the 333 castings.I will be using a set of 333's myself since I feel my goals are easily within reach of the 333's.
I agree that dumping a ton of shop hours on a set of 333s can result in getting away from you quickly in terms of dollars. I did the 333s at a time when I didn't have a lot of options with larger port iron heads. For whatever reasons I've steered away from aftermarket heads for the time being.
I remember the 2004 gathering in KC where Lamar Walden labeled the 333s as "door stops" and for some reason I bought into that for a bit. Jason's success some years back changed my mind on that. I do use those 2" exhaust manifolds for door stops, however .