409 crack repair

BSL409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
rsz_002.jpgrsz_004.jpgI will be starting to repair this 409 cracked block with the lock-n-stitch this weekend
 

63 dream'n

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 4
Ive seen the video on this process and it is very impressive.and from what Ive heard,very reliable.good luck!!!
 

409newby

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 11
I had that method used on a ford block many years ago, never had a leak. :clap
 

Ronnie Russell

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Hey Brian, I have a new lock-n-stitch kit I bought a few years ago then never used it. My kit doesn't seem to have enough lock pins to do a big job. Could you record the size and number you use? I've got a DVD that came with it but haven't watched it yet. Depending on you to provide suggestions after you finish. Thanks
 

buildit

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 8
I have repaired a couple dozen blocks, including several W-motors, with these tapered threaded cast iron plugs. A water jacket crack like the one pictured would take around six hours to repair, if you keep plenty of overlap on the plugs. There are a few little tricks to doing it right.
 

Phil Reed

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 10
Brian...one other thing. Be sure to check inside the block above the lifter galley to make sure it's not cracked. I have one block that is cracked on the outside, inside just below the deck surface and right down the middle of the lifter galley on one side!!!! Wonder how cold it had to be to have that happen?????
 

Mark Steele

Well Known Member
I was over to an engine builders just today. He showed me two 409 blocks on the table for rebuild that he had repaired (welded) in the exact place yours is cracked. He said this is a common 409 problem. He said after he welds them - they will last. Mark Steele
 

63 dream'n

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 4
Are the heads bolted on to stress the block so everything's in like a "home"position?.....does that make sense??
 

buildit

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 8
I hate to have to say this, but the plugs need to go in angled at about 30 degrees left, then 30 degrees right, repeated this way through the entire length of the crack. Starting with the second plug, it needs to intersect about 30 percent of the diameter of the previous plug. Like interlocking your fingers, this "cross-stitching" of the plugs in left-right angles, while each plug overlaps into the previous plug, is what ties the deck to the side of the block casting. If not done in this way, the taper of the plugs is only trying to force each side of the crack further apart. I hate to be the bearer of bad news, maybe I should have explained all this in the previous post.
 

MRHP

 
Supporting Member 1
You are on the first round of drilling. Your second round in between the inserts will seal. I was thinking you were just doing the one step.:think Carry on.:cheers
 

buildit

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 8
You are on the first round of drilling. Your second round in between the inserts will seal. I was thinking you were just doing the one step.:think Carry on.:cheers
If these plugs all angle one direction, and the next round angles the other way, it might still tie everything together. I have always done them one after another, as it ties the two sides together right from the start.
 
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