409 Glass fuel filter bowl

Iowa409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
I like that your trying to keep things original. You may want to do a search on glass fuel bowls . Once the parts are replaced, it seems the bowls start leaking, which leads to tightening the knob on the bowl. End result is the bowl cracks and you have a fire. Don't want to scare anybody but even GM did away with them. I will be using a good inline filter. I have all the 2x4 fuel lines and bowl, but not using it.

This one was in a boat......
View attachment 64295


I am trying to keep it some what original, and for the most part it is, BUT.... if once I start to fire it up on the engine run stand and I see a drip or leak of any sort, I will in fact change it, I had many versions of the glass fuel bowl on my old chevy's and will maintain that look, if I can. However its not critical to me, I mean I have all the original pulleys and etc. but chose a MARCH Serpentine system, the fuel pump is not original, nor the Doug's Headers, everything else is original, but I am building this car with original, Mikes ideas, and aftermarket parts, I am looking for dependability, when I turn the key it must, absolutely MUST go VRoooooom, without fail each and every-time, that is my goal anyways, after the bugs are worked out, its a cruiser for me, not a points inspection type car going through concourse judging every weekend, while I appreciate those guys, I am not that guy. Thanks for looking out!!!
 

Iowa409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Let me ask this to the forum? If you do decide to walk away from the GM Fuel bowl which is where my return line goes, how do you still keep the return fuel line in play and functional ? If you do away with the glass bowl? I understood the fuel bowl with return was developed because of vapor lock during high heat situations to relieve back pressure on the fuel system? I may be off on what I read and the truth of the matter, but that is what I comprehended after reading the article. I am guessing a different fuel pump with a return line?
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Yes,I'd go with the fuel pump with the return fitting.Of course,I absolutely abhor those glass filters so I'm biased.There were some metal filters in the late 60's-early 70's that had a return line provision on them as well.
 

Jridge1

Well Known Member
Here are some pics. This is on my 64 340 hp
 

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Iowa409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Thank you Jridge1, thats a good view, so on your picture labeled 214523, the fitting in the lower left corner that screws in to

your GC4 carb, it is a 1/8" male, that runs to what? Vacuum advance? So that is one port I am trying figure out. There is on my GC4 a vacuum off of the carb almost directly above that fitting but slightly more towards center at the to, where does that go?

Then there is a 3/8 port to the left rear of the carb on the intake, then there is the one coming out of the rear lower carb, then there is the draft tube, That is what I am trying to figure out the routing of that stuff, thank you for the good pics
 

WINTERTEXAN

Well Known Member
Hi Guys,
I thought I would share a few things:
A 63-65 340hp 409 used a Rochester 4GC. The fuel filter slanted down towards the intake about 30 degrees. This is correct.
There a two versions of the glass fuel bowl available. While used in many different applications, up to 1962 (348/409) they were 2 hole units. In 63 and later (409) they were 3 hole units. They each used a different element.
I have attached a picture of the two elements. The one on the left is a 3 hole element, on the right is a 2 hole element.
Shafer's re-produces both of the filter units. They put the 2 hole element in both. The 2 hole element in a 3 hole filter does not filter the gas. We carry both elements. The 2 hole is $7.50, the 3 hole is $8.75 These are Wix as AC Delco has discontinued them.
I hope this answers some questions.

Bruce, Show Cars fuelfilters.jpg
 

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Jridge1

Well Known Member
Iowa409 yes the the lower line of the bottom is the vacuum advance. It goes half way back in steel then a rubber hose the rest of the way to the vacuum advance. There is an equalization hole to the piston in the choke that comes out the side of the carb but is completely covered when choke is in place. The next port at the top left of the carb is an air inlet to the lower choke tube off the exhaust manifold. The other side off the manifold comes back to the choke mechanism. Middle rear of the carb is a vaccum line that goes to the port off of the oil filler neck. The vaccum line off of the manifold is for power brakes if only equipped with manual trans. Otherwise it will be a tee for power brakes and trans vacuum. The "road tube" attaches to the bottom of the filter assembly to a little screen inside the filter area. I took pics at a different angle also. Hope that helps.
I bought fuel filter and seal from show cars and knock on wood no leaks.
 

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Iowa409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
I have the one on the left ( which is a 3 hole) from Bruce, so I have to assume its the right one and judging by Bruce's description I do have the correct one, so seems like that's all good, I have to sort out your pics Jridge1 and look at mine, one thing I think is throwing my layout off, is I have a knock off 64 Breather, looks like its original counter parts twin but missing the hole in the bottom of the breather, so it changes things, I would guess, so we are trying to figure a work around solution.

I am not using my choke as it was designed because I am running Dougs headers so there is no place to hook up the tube from the manifold to the carb.( I am converting to electric at some point.

I need to hook up to vacuum, the power brakes, vacuum advance and, the road draft and I am running a vented cap, instead of the original with the oil fill tube port to vacuum.

4 Speed so no need for tranny vacuum, its an odd arrangement with different requirements, Bruce is looking into, to see if he can come up with a solution.
 
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Iowa409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Mike,
I will have the warehouse bring me a 4GC carb and I will hook up the PVC setup with connections for power brake and air and distributor vacuum line and post a picture. It may take me a day or so to get this done.
Bruce



Awesome Bruce you da man!! I got the other pic tonight, thats perfect just like that, thank you.
 

427John

Well Known Member
I'm with the guys who recommend switching to a non glass filter,the original filters have their place on a concours type restoration,but insisting on running a glass bowl with a serpentine belt setup is about as asinine as running 90's vintage billet shit on a rat rod.
 

Iowa409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
I'm with the guys who recommend switching to a non glass filter,the original filters have their place on a concours type restoration,but insisting on running a glass bowl with a serpentine belt setup is about as asinine as running 90's vintage billet shit on a rat rod.


427John, remind me how much you have invested in my car? My point, I can do whatever I like to the car, its the look I WANT, so relax dude.

ASS NINE, is kinda judgmental, The car is going to be kind of old school meets new school, if you stand on the side of Concourse cars only, good for you, I appreciate ya,But I do not, I want to build mine, to Drive, If you would be so kind to send, a check for 50% of the car we will go in 1/2 on it together, now......the catch is.............if you do not go in half, and I am the only owner, funding my car, I get to do it any DAM WAY I please.


Lets be Friends, not offending to one another, I like your posts and thank your a good guy, so lets just .....keep it cars.
 
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Carmine

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
I can appreciate everyone's concern for the glass bowls leaking, cracking, fires, etc., but I like mine. I'm far from concourse or pristine. I like the way it looks. I change the filter yearly. Don't want to jinx myself, but never any issues with it. Admittedly, I did buy some all steel ones mentioned in another thread, just in case, Carmine.
 
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