409 rebuild finally starting

Well, it’s finally warming up a bit here in northern Wisconsin. It’s time.
After a year of family priorities and now being stuck at home, I’m finally off my backside to get my 409 built.
The engine code that’s cast on the rear is: 814
The engine casting number is: 3844422
The stamped number is: J204002T0827 ( CG ? ) (the ‘C’ might be something else but looks like a C)
The head numbers are: 3830817
Intake is: 3844465
The best info. this rookie can come up with, is that it was made in 63’ and put in a 64’. There’s no telltale sign of there ever being a pilot bushing in the crankshaft for a standard transmission, so I’m guessing it may have had a power glide behind it (maybe in a wagon?)
I was told it had roughly 44,000 miles on it before it spent 20 years or so in a garage in rural Arizona.
It was tore down a few weeks ago by myself and my friend who’s a semi-retired engine machine shop owner. According to him, it looks great!
It’s been dipped, checked for cracks (a more modern way other than magneflux? Not sure of the process.) Anyway, My goal is to rebuild it basically back to stock but maybe with a little bit of ‘thumpity-thump’. I plan on driving it allot locally and cross country, so I want to be able to use pump gas.

Here’s my questions:
What company or companies would be a good source for rebuild parts?....for .020 over pistons and rings? Timing gear set? Oil pump? Camshaft and lifters? Gasket kit? as well as bushings, and a host other parts I’ll need? I found a ‘Howard’ camshaft and hydraulic lifter kit #130821-10 on the JEGS website that I was told would work well for what I’m after. The car I’m putting this in is my 63’ wagon of course, but with a 4-spd Muncie I found. By the way, what bell housing will I need? (assuming I can’t use the 283 bell housing that the original 3-spd on the tree with overdrive I had in it). I gotta find brackets for the steering pump, alternator, a radiator, a carb that’ll match up, flywheel, clutch, pressure plate, geez...So much to learn and research.
Just as when I built my ‘34 Chevy coupe streetrod, I didn’t know a thing about how or where to start, but I learned from my fellow Rodders who helped me along the way. Thanks ahead of time for any contact info., suggestions, input, and cautionary advice that you all may have.
 

boxerdog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
I think I'd stick with a Showcars "kit" for that engine, forged pistons (the Icons are a great deal), and I am sure Don and others can recommend a "top of the page" cam. If the budget permits, I'd use a hydraulic roller to avoid potential issues with failures. You may have to work with them to put together the exact combination of stuff you need, but it will be well worth it. I wouldn't be afraid of the stock rods (with new bolts) but it is also simple enough to add in longer BBC stuff in most cases. Good luck!
 

Toms63SSQB

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 8
When Don Jack's sees this he will
most likely be the one to respond to your questions. Sounds like a good project, good luck.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
You can do better on that cam.I humbly suggest the following.Bottom end; 48-801-11 Comp cams hyd.roller,Pistons KB Icon 7819p28,Scat I beam rods 6.385 in length,balance assembly.Heads,go up to 2.19 intakes,bowl port heads on both intake and exhaust,use the elelbrock single 4bbl small port,carb in the 750 range[Street Demon is a good choice].The result,decent mileage,daily driver reliable,drive anywhere any time 430 horse[with headers] engine that will last for decades.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Show Cars can set you up with everything you need except the cam that I mentioned.That you'd order direct from Comp.If you decide to go flat tappet[risky],get pn 0951 from Show Cars.If you go with the roller,get your lifters from Competetion Products and save nearly 100 bucks.The piston I listed is for the 4inch stroke/6.135 rod.It also works great with the stock 409 crank/6.385 rod.DO NOT order head gaskets just yet.
 

DonSSDD

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Your front driveshaft from an od is the same length as for a 4 speed. You’ll need a new bh, the 63 would be a closed bottom aluminum and a 153 tooth flywheel, you’ll need a 168 tooth and a larger bh. A 62 and prior open bh will work and there are some later large bh’s.

The 63 small block bh was one year only.
 
I’ll start looking for that flywheel and bellhousing and share this latest with my machinist friend. Thanks fellas. I called ShowCars Friday and ordered a catalog. I was asked by the owner to call this week anytime after Tuesday and talk to Bruce (who’s been out of the New Ulm office for the winter). I plan on doing that Wednesday or Thursday after I try and educate myself further.
 

427John

Well Known Member
The earlier 553 belhousing is aluminum and will be expensive when found the 552 housing is cast iron and as near as I can tell is identical to the 553 just heavier and was used in a larger number of applications so is easier to find and a lot cheaper.There are other casting number bells that will also work those are just 2 that come to mind quickly.
 
Definitely will do that. He wanted me there tearing it down with him and explained everything he saw good or bad. Very thorough. We planned to build it back up together before this virus thing hit. Unfortunately he suffers from a bad case of asthma, so with his vulnerabilities to C-19, our “one on one” tutorial time is very limited. I’ve already begun the bh search. Plan to call ShowCars today
 
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