FATRIDE That is a quality starter you are using. If you compare your's to some of the other mini's out there you will notice the far end of your bendix is supported, while some of the others have no support on the flywheel side. I checked the instructions that came with mine and confirmed the setup dimensions. Like in my previous post you want to shoot for .030 clearance between the bendix tooth and flywheel tooth. Manually pull bendix into the energized drive position then either counter rotate the flywheel or bendix and insert a wire feeler guage. Visually it look's like to much clearance, but that's what work's. They also suggest you have .100 clearance betweem the leading edge of the bendix gear and the back edge of the flywheel when the bendix is in the retracted position..Shims are also available for this if necessary, they actually sandwhich between the starter body and mounting boss and space everything forward slightly, away from the flywheel. I am surprised that you starter came without better installation instructions. You should also check the clearances at several different places on the flywheel, to eliminate an egg shaped wheel as the problem. Every 60 degrees of rotation is the suggested for that check. Mini's will work well for a long time, but seem to be less forgiving than a stock starter when it comes to just bolting it on. After all, they were originally built to spin very high compression race motors, with exotic and compliceted oil pan's and dry sump systems, with a mininum of space available for a conventional starter. Some teams use a special adapter to move the starter to the other side of the motor, to be able to use a full length kickout on that side of the oil pan due to the direction the crank is slinging the oil. If you still have a problem, contact Powermasters tech dept, most of the aftermarket companies have very good customers service rep's. Good luck.
