'58 Build

Dicey58

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
http://s1378.photobucket.com/user/Dicey58/library/58 Build Forum Pics

Hey guys,

I did post in the newbie forum, but I've actually started the build now, so I'd thought it appropriate to post what I'm doing here. Love looking at, and reading about all your cars, builds, ideas...etc. This site is great. I just started photbucket, and am not 100% sure I know what I'm doing, but I hope you can see what I'm doing via the link I posted. Also, feel free to comment with any thoughts or ideas to any photos whether they be positive or negative!

My plans for the car:

Pull the old broken 283 and powerglide and replace with 468 570hp/580tq from VortecProPerformance with a built TH400 and matching TQ converter ordered by the engine builder, from ATI. MSD 6al. Motor should be done in the next week or so. Still need a water pump, and I'm not sure whether I can go with a long or short(anyone know?). Sorry it's not a 409, I just couldn't afford a build like that to get decent numbers.$$$$$
I am going with the IE 502 kit driveshaft with a Moser 9" and probably a 3.00 or 3.25 gear.

Body will come off the frame and I will start at the frame. Get it blasted and go the POR15 route. Going to go with a '59 type double upper trail arm setup with a trac bar from Spohn. Going to go 3" drop springs in the back. New Brake and gas lines and discs at all corners with a 2" drop spindle(getdiscbrakes.com). Also going to go 1" sway bar front and rear. Tubular upper control arms and stay with the stockers on the bottom with a 1-1.5" drop spring. Fully rebuild the front and stick with manual steering for now, although I may switch to a better ratio with a power steering box. New upgraded radiator, obviously. All bolts and screws will get replaced on this build...twisted a couple off already even with the use of PB.:doh I guess that's expected when they've been in place for 57 years.

The body is pretty good except for inner rockers, a couple spots in the trunk, quarters...I won't really know until it gets blasted anyway. Every one of the 8 body support members is rotted. At $99 a pop...ouch. I plan on going with a stock interior, but that may change over the next few years. I like the Dakota digital package for the '58. I'm seriously considering the Coys 18" wheels...but again, lots of time to think about it. The only trim I'm missing are for the tops of the front fenders, the rocker trim(which I may just delete), and a piece around the rear tail lights. Otherwise it is complete. Oh, I will need to add A/C. Anyone here installed an aftermarket in their '58?

Well before someone falls asleep with this novel...:blah

Wish me luck! Will keep updating.

Josh
 

1961BelAir427

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Not sure about the engine bay of the 58, but there is plenty of room on the 59-64's for a long water pump system on a big block engine. The Short water pump set-up looks good, but the long water pump parts are easier to find and cheaper. Your powerglide is a later (62+) model aluminum one so it is fairly desirable. Might not be a bad match behind that 454, but I prefer the TH400 you plan on. You'll need to build or buy a crossmember for the TH400.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Good luck on the build.Adding A/C isn't a big deal,but in the intreast of simpicity,I'd suggest getting a heating and air kit to replace those hard to find items such as heat control valves,and heater cores.A good way to go with the water pump and front engine accessories would be the GMPP front acessory kit,since it comes with all the parts needed,right down to the nuts,bolts,and washers.These are production parts meaning that in the event of failure down the road,you can get replacements at any parts house.Before you decide on that rear gear ratio,consult with your engine builder,depending on the cam,he may want you to run deeper,such as 3.50-3.70.For the best overall package,the cam,converter,and gear have to be in sync.
 

tripower

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
If your having the frame blasted don't waste time and money with the pour 15 have it powder coated. It will be a much better job a lot less work and probably cheaper. In my area for a frame crossmember and rearend housin in 60% black runs 400.00 and that includes blasting.
Post your pictures using this sitest photo program. You don't need to resize as this site does it for you and your pics will post right in your post. Much easier for us to veiw rather then going to a link.
I'm not sure what water pump the system Don mentioned uses but if it is available with short pump would go with short water pump as long will put your fan to far into the fan shroud.
Good luck and keep us posted.
 

Dicey58

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
Thanks, guys. Engine builder told me I could run a 2.73 rear if I wanted, with no issues. He knew I'd be skeptical, but had one of his motors in a Chevelle with that setup and they loved it.

Josh
 

Dicey58

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
If your having the frame blasted don't waste time and money with the pour 15 have it powder coated. It will be a much better job a lot less work and probably cheaper. In my area for a frame crossmember and rearend housin in 60% black runs 400.00 and that includes blasting.
Post your pictures using this sitest photo program. You don't need to resize as this site does it for you and your pics will post right in your post. Much easier for us to veiw rather then going to a link.
I'm not sure what water pump the system Don mentioned uses but if it is available with short pump would go with short water pump as long will put your fan to far into the fan shroud.
Good luck and keep us posted.

Thanks Tripower,

Just called a local guy two miles from my house. Said he'd blast and powder the frame for $300. To me that's a hell of a deal.
 

Dicey58

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
Then he said " and I know you're going to bring another half dozen or so parts to be blasted...so let's call it $500 for the whole deal" :D Apparently he knows how this car project thing works. Lol!
 

1961BelAir427

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Then he said " and I know you're going to bring another half dozen or so parts to be blasted...so let's call it $500 for the whole deal" :D Apparently he knows how this car project thing works. Lol!
:appl He'll probably be the kind of guy to work with you to get everything done. Sounds like the type who depends on good word of mouth and satisfied customers. I could be completely wrong though.
 

Jeff Olson

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Good luck on the build.Adding A/C isn't a big deal,but in the intreast of simpicity,I'd suggest getting a heating and air kit to replace those hard to find items such as heat control valves,and heater cores.A good way to go with the water pump and front engine accessories would be the GMPP front acessory kit,since it comes with all the parts needed,right down to the nuts,bolts,and washers.These are production parts meaning that in the event of failure down the road,you can get replacements at any parts house.Before you decide on that rear gear ratio,consult with your engine builder,depending on the cam,he may want you to run deeper,such as 3.50-3.70.For the best overall package,the cam,converter,and gear have to be in sync.

You mentioned 18" wheels, tire size will also have an impact on gearing.
 

Jeff Olson

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Thanks Tripower,

Just called a local guy two miles from my house. Said he'd blast and powder the frame for $300. To me that's a hell of a deal.

Where at? As you are in Minnesota might be worth a drive for me. That is a hell of a deal, best quote I got was for $300 to powder coat and that was if you brought in a blasted frame.
 

Dicey58

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
You mentioned 18" wheels, tire size will also have an impact on gearing.
Yes, I've been running all the numbers with wheel/tire combos to gear ratio @70mph. Since it's a three speed, I just wanted to keep the rpms under 3000....that gets annoying.
 

Dicey58

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
Where at? As you are in Minnesota might be worth a drive for me. That is a hell of a deal, best quote I got was for $300 to powder coat and that was if you brought in a blasted frame.
Jeff, it's in Farmington. A company called JIT. Where are you?
 

Jeff Olson

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Clark, SD.
I Googled it and Farmington is just south of the cities, probably about 4.5 hours from here. Do you know if they do soda blasting as well?
 

Dicey58

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
Clark, SD.
I Googled it and Farmington is just south of the cities, probably about 4.5 hours from here. Do you know if they do soda blasting as well?
They do not, Jeff. I have another guy set up to do all of the body for $750. Which I think is pretty reasonable. But he's north of the cities...
 

tripower

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Thanks Tripower,

Just called a local guy two miles from my house. Said he'd blast and powder the frame for $300. To me that's a hell of a deal.
Great, glad you're going that route. You will be very happy with the end results.
 

Jeff Olson

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
They do not, Jeff. I have another guy set up to do all of the body for $750. Which I think is pretty reasonable. But he's north of the cities...

My guy quoted me $1000 to soda blast a 75 Camaro with no front clip.
 

Dicey58

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
There was a company in the Forest Lake area, north of St Paul, MN, that had a dip tank for car bodies. I don't know if that option is still available.
Really? I did a search on that and didn't find anything. Let me know if you remember the name. I'm interested in checking it out. Thanks.
 

tripower

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
There was a company in the Forest Lake area, north of St Paul, MN, that had a dip tank for car bodies. I don't know if that option is still available.
There is a place here in Portland that has a tank. That by far is the best way to go if you can.
 
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