59 Impala Fuse Panel Removal

#1
I am having an issue with my dash lights (Not functioning) that I have tracked down to the the fuse panel. What I need help with is how to remove the fuse panel. It has a screw located partially behind the signal flasher. That is all I can find under the dash. On the firewall side I find the tip of a sheet metal screw that I am pretty certain has something to do with attaching the panel. No idea how to get to the business end of that screw. I have looked in both the 58 manual and the 59 supplemental manual to no avail. I have looked on line hoping to find a photo of one for sale. Again no luck. After removing the screw I can get too it is still as solid as can be, no movement at all in any direction that I can feel. Any help would be really great. Thank you in advance.
 
#2
I think I may have found the answer to my own question. I finally found a photo of a fuse panel on line that was clearer than anything previously. It appears that there is a mounting hole laying behind the top fuse. Up at the top and behind the fuse I just could not see it. I will tackle again tomorrow and report back. Who knows, it might be some information that a person could use going down the road someday.
 

pvs409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
#3
Yes 60’s fuse boxes were installed with hex screws hidden behind at least one of the fuses. Normally
The fuse box normally has two mounting screws.
Paul
 
#5
OK, I got the fuse panel loose from fire wall and turned around for a look see. If it can be repaired it will take someone with more talent than I have available. I will jumper from a fuse position above to the dash light position. I will still have fuse protection. At some point I will replace the fuse box and under dash wiring. It has been replaced once before at some point. The fuse box and wiring all looks new. My best guess is that the fuse box problem I have is defective workmanship. The bottom 3 fuse positions have no power.
 

ragtp66

Well Known Member
#6
It has been a long time since I have opened a fuse box but If my memory serves me correctly the three bottom fuses do not get their power from the bus bar. The instrument lamp fuse gets its power from the Headlight Switch when it is ON. So it doesn't matter if you have the ignition key on or off that fuse does not get power until you pull the headlight switch on. Kinda of backwards of how you think the fuse would get power from ignition or battery. The power comes FROM the Headlight Switch in the ON position then across the fuse and out to the cluster lights (grey wire I think). Can't remember the other circuits maybe dome light/clock.
 
#8
Thank you Ragtp66 & RussC for your input. I changed out the headlamp switch with a new switch from Ecklers . Just took it out of the box and swapped out thinking that would correct my issue and it did not so figured it was not bad, put the one just taken out and put it back in the box and tossed box on the back floorboard thinking to keep as a spare. Today when putting box up I notice that it shows to be a 1957 switch. On further investigation it has a 1957 part number and the photo on line looks to be identical. Move over to the 1959 site and photo again looks to be same but with a different part number and the price is twice plus more expensive. Strange me thinks so I call Ecklers to inquire. I am told there is no difference between a 1957 switch and the 1959 switch. I will admit that the wire plug plugged right in like it belonged . Anyone here have any thoughts on this? Ragtp66, after what you shared on your reply I am leaning away from the Fuse panel and back to headlamp switch / wire somewhere. The dash lights are the only lights on the whole car that are not functioning correctly. Can heat INSTR LPS 3 amp fuse up direct and all dash lights come on. Of course they do this rather the headlamp switch is in the on or off position. I really do appreciate all of the suggestions and input.
 

ragtp66

Well Known Member
#9
If you jumper the fuse and the dash lights work that would tell me the wiring and sockets are good so the area that is giving you the trouble is either the wiring from the switch to the fuse or the switch. I know it’s a dumb question to ask but have you made sure that the knob isn’t just rotated around to where the dash lights are off. Felt like an idiot one time taking a passenger door panel off and checking the motor and wiring looking for an open wire and forgot to make sure the window override button on the drivers door was still ON.
 
#10
ragtp66, there are no dumb questions at this point and you are being a big help. I have rotated knob full right and full left to no avail. I will pull switch tomorrow and see if I can verify continuity on the Dark Green wire coming out of the switch plug. According to the schematic it goes to right side of fuse and gray wire leaves left side headed for the bulbs. I think you have it spotted. It almost has to be at the switch plug, wire from plug to fuse box or connection at fuse box. Frustration level running fairly high at this point but tomorrow will seem better. Thank you for sticking with me here. This is a slow way to learn but it should stay with me for awhile. At least I hope so.
 

ragtp66

Well Known Member
#12
Try running a Jumper wire (hot) to the terminal in the wiring harness plug at the light switch that feeds the fuse --Dark Green wire. If they light up from there then you know the switch is the issue. If they don't light up check the fuse for continuity and maybe take a scotch bright pad and clean the metal ends of the use and the contacts that they snap into in the fuse box as Russ said they might just be corroded. When you have the switch out take a look at the rheostat coil wire you can test it at both ends for continuity and see if the guitar pick shaped metal disc is making contact as you rotate the knob -- you might have to bend it slightly to make contact it should contact the coil as you rotate the knob and then ride up on the two bumps to break contact and turn the lights off. With all the offshore parts it is hard to get good quality parts. Originals AC delco stuff is worth paying extra for. I also have had good luck with Lectriclimited.com or Echlin brand from Napa ---here is discount for tomorrow http://link.mailing.napaonline.com/...9KK-kxkOa663c_KHYin77vvp8=.enc&msgVersion=web
 
#13
RussC & ragtp66, When I share with you what the problem turned out to be you will have an idea of what you have been working with these last few days. I did not have the wiring plug plugged in correctly. The two prongs closet to the knob I was missing completely. One is to Inst lights and the other a Domelight ground. That is also why the plug was not pushing in easley or snapping into place. Dumb as hell but it is what it is and I thank you all again for the suggestions and support. Have a great day, mine has gotten a lot better.
 

ragtp66

Well Known Member
#15
Glad you were able to figure it out. Trust me I spent entirely WAYYYYYYY too much time trying to install those christmas tree fasteners that hold the rubber pad around the steering column to the firewall and the 4 or 5 grommets that seal the wiring harness and heater cables to the firewall. I would have never made it as an assembly line worker. Those things sucked. Tried warming them in hot water first to make them softer, tried dish soap, tried silicone lube. I am sure the neighbors learned a few new cuss words by the time I was done. :rolleyes
 
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