I'm no engine expert, but I can't see how either calculator could be accurate since they don't take any "engine specific" data into account. Like carb size, intake design, valve train information or exhaust set up.
What I would do is either buy a junk tire (without a rim if possible) of roughly the width you want and mock it in place where you want it and have good clearances. Measure how much space there is from the mounting flange to the back most part of the tire. This will give you your rough back space measurement.Any chance you could find out the offset?
I should remeasure my back spacing and call a few places. The guy I bought mine from didn't know.
Any way he said it would be hard to believe if I'm even close to 400 h.p even with my setup because these engines don't breath and they are not modern wonders like they are use to building for the wealthy race customer's
He is obviously smarter than anyone, just ask him. Lay some rubber in front of his shop and tell him you are glad this old truck motor doesn't make big power like a modern engine, you couldn't afford the cost of rubber.
Ronnie will recommend a K&N too, it will make a lot more power then.
Tell him to watch this old truck motor driven by some old Chevy guy. I think he even tuned it himself. Make sure you get the K&N.
Ronnie is a bit sarcastic, making fun of the people who buy K&N for the "100HP" increase in power.......................... I was being sarcastic too.I find it hard to believe that car wouldn't do a burnout before the air cleaners though.
Ronnie is a bit sarcastic, making fun of the people who buy K&N for the "100HP" increase in power.......................... I was being sarcastic too.
Don
That's a GMC, made for a few years in the early 60's, not much of a motor other than being good looking. Google the GMC V12 version.