'61 Biscayne Stroked 348/440c.i. My First Restoration

sycsteve

Well Known Member
Is this the only weather strip you can get for the trunk? Got it from rock auto and the one from Hubbard's looks the same.
Is there any reason I should use weather strip adhesive on my door seals?

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pvs409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 11
Is this the only weather strip you can get for the trunk? Got it from rock auto and the one from Hubbard's looks the same.
Is there any reason I should use weather strip adhesive on my door seals?

View attachment 56630

The trunk weather strip I have used over the years on about 8 -1961 to 1963 restorations has been solid (no holes inside). Soft seal was the brand on most of them as I recall - the shape in your picture looks similar. See my pictures.

The trunk weatherstrip is installed only one way, with the curve to the outside of the car (the weatherstrip is installed vertical not horizontial in the trunk lip opening) and the joint at the "rear" bottom center of the trunk opening. Original door weather strip had wire push in connectors to the holes in the doors. Repro weatherstip has plastic push in ribbed pins. With the plastic push in pins you have to push them in straight and they can rip out of the weatherstrip -so black 3M weatherstrip is a good back up at the ends and in between the plastic pins.

Do you have larger holes on the bottom of your doors for plastic plugs that hold the weatherstrip plastic pins ( 61 & 62 Hardtop doors do) ? If you do I suggest replacing them with new ones before installing your door weatherstrip. I can take pictures of these items if needed.
Paul
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sycsteve

Well Known Member
The trunk weather strip I have used over the years on about 8 -1961 to 1963 restorations has been solid (no holes inside). Soft seal was the brand on most of them as I recall - the shape in your picture looks similar. See my pictures.

The trunk weatherstrip is installed only one way, with the curve to the outside of the car (the weatherstrip is installed vertical not horizontial in the trunk lip opening) and the joint at the "rear" bottom center of the trunk opening. Original door weather strip had wire push in connectors to the holes in the doors. Repro weatherstip has plastic push in ribbed pins. With the plastic push in pins you have to push them in straight and they can rip out of the weatherstrip -so black 3M weatherstrip is a good back up at the ends and in between the plastic pins.

Do you have larger holes on the bottom of your doors for plastic plugs that hold the weatherstrip plastic pins ( 61 & 62 Hardtop doors do) ? If you do I suggest replacing them with new ones before installing your door weatherstrip. I can take pictures of these items if needed.
Paul
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Thanks for the pics. I wasn't sure if I had the right seal or was installing it correctly. It looks like I had the right seal but not in the correct position just wanted to be sure before I glued it in.
I bought the plastic inserts just in case because I remember having to remove all the plastic inserts when I was sanding the doors and didn't know what I was getting exactly. Never thought to look at the holes in the bottom but yes they are larger than the upper holes.
I bought the 3M, 08008 weather strip adhesive like the seals recommended. Figured it would be a good idea because I talked to a guy with a 62 Belair and every time he opened the doors the weather stripping would fall off in spots.
 
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sycsteve

Well Known Member
I wonder if the solid trunk seal would be better? The Parts Place in DeKalb has the solid one for $19. just went to look at it today.
 

sycsteve

Well Known Member
Forgot to say too that the Moroso clamp on breather/ filler cap on the oil tube stays in place so far but could be a little smaller. I'm getting use to it.
 

sycsteve

Well Known Member
I'm trying to figure out what bulb I need for my dome light so I can get LED build for it. The 1156 base fits but I be At one with 2 contacts on the bottom.

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