62 BelAir Bubble Build - sport coupe 409

TheLRZ

Well Known Member
9.3 : 1

block and heads were not machined

Old timing chain was used

looks like I got swindled
But it’s in the right hands and some day I have a beauty of a 409...
 

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TheLRZ

Well Known Member
With those cast pistons ,if they stay in the engine,keep the revs well below 6000.
That won’t be an issue for my driving style. Now that I’m tearing it down, I wonder what respectable but not show off upgrades I should do.
Nice to have established a bit of a reputation with you guys. Since I’m unexpectedly going to essentially rebuild this engine. What do think I can do to get’er respectfully rocking as a cruiser with some character that OG engine guys would see as important upgrades.?
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Edelbrock single 4bbl.intake, 625-650 cfm carb,cam in the 224-230 range@.050.Of course matching valve springs.If you're changing pistons,the Icon piston made for the 4 inch stroke and the 6.385 rod will wake that engine up when used with the afore mentioned parts will result in a really nice improvement.While they're doing the valve job have them do a decent bowl porting job which of it's self will be good for an additional 40-50 hp.To get a better idea of what this will do for you look at Tim's 380 build up.You're likely going to change pistons anyway to get that compression.With a .040 quench distance the piston rod combo will put you in the 10.25-10.5 range.
 
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TheLRZ

Well Known Member
Engines totally torn down
They magnafluxed it.

it passed

should have taken photos. It has a forged steel crank

I got the exhaust manifolds ceramic coated
 

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TheLRZ

Well Known Member
So they need to machine the deck on the block.
called beforehand to ask if the numbers were important to me.
I said yes
Apparently there’s a guy who restamps the numbers on the deck pad but I asked if they could put it on the jig to avoid losing those original numbers.

anyone do clean the deck and gain some compression without losing deck code?
to be continued........
 

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TheLRZ

Well Known Member
We took .015 off my 5011 block to square it up.The numbers are still there just not as deep as before.IMO,Screw a bunch of numbers on a clone car.I Want my engine RIGHT.
Valid perspective.

I’ll keep you in the loop on how she goes.

it’s my only 409 so if it can be done right and I get to keep its history I’ll be happier.
 

benchseat4speed

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
I’m a dork about numbers and history, I wouldn’t want to shave mine off either but, Don has a good point. If your machine shop can square the deck and save the numbers, go that route:good

Also, Chevrolet left a ton of meat in those 817 heads to make a ton of improvement under the valves, exhaust especially, the ‘short side’ under the intakes, and gasket match. You’ll have 20+ hours into em easy, but there’s no doubt it’ll help. Especially with that cam, a good intake manifold and headers, you’ll nudge 400hp for sure. Even with stock stroke and mild compression ratio 9.5-10:1.
 

TheLRZ

Well Known Member
I’m a dork about numbers and history, I wouldn’t want to shave mine off either but, Don has a good point. If your machine shop can square the deck and save the numbers, go that route:good

Also, Chevrolet left a ton of meat in those 817 heads to make a ton of improvement under the valves, exhaust especially, the ‘short side’ under the intakes, and gasket match. You’ll have 20+ hours into em easy, but there’s no doubt it’ll help. Especially with that cam, a good intake manifold and headers, you’ll nudge 400hp for sure. Even with stock stroke and mild compression ratio 9.5-10:1.
Well guys,
I’m a sucker for traditional things and the engine will be simply honed and original pistons used. Having said that a .492/.492 is the recommendation.
Now with that said that, with your guy’s knowledge and experience, and with the laundry list I’ll attach let’s start to guess on the output numbers that this engine will get.

Let’s see who’ll be the closest.

I’m building a cruiser and never was one to really care about burning rubber or anything, but am a sucker for tradition, engineering and nostalgic items. So I’m sure it’ll run beauty and pull more than all the leaky worn out 283’ I’ve driven for decades.

I’ll be sure to mention the extra meat on the heads to the guys.
thanks for that tidbit of knowledge :good
 

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Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Are they doing anything to the heads other than a good valve job?A basic pocket port along with that valve job is worth 35 plus.Are you running the stock 340 horse intake and carb.An Edelbrock single 4 bbl intake is another 20 plus and the engine's appearence now mimics a correct 400 horse engine for the car esp.with that nice air cleaner that you have.
 

TheLRZ

Well Known Member
So no wonder she was leaking.
The block and the heads surfaces were visibly distorted.
All taken care of now.

.006 off both.
Was even able to maintain the factory deck stamp enough to effectively read it with the before photo as reference.

Time to assemble.
Then once she’s complete have the left ban gasoline engines

Looking at going with a isky .492 /.492 lift cam That’s the largest cam we can go with the stock pistons
 

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Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Don't go by lift,go by the cam's duration at .050.Those pistons will work with a 224 in.230 ex.with room to spare.Get yourself a cam in that duration range and don't look back.You won't regret it.
 

TheLRZ

Well Known Member
“ 202 can go up 1 it’s 510 lift & .224 @ .050 “
Who has the most concise and thorough description of what this means regarding the mechanics of the engine? How it affects the performance overall?
considering: vacuum, idle, torque, hp, fuel efficiency.....
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
I don't mean to degrage your cam choice after all it's your car and should be done to your standsrds.The informatin that .492 lift is the largest that you could put in due to the pistons is flatly wrong.I don't know where it came from as lift it's self has nothing to do with bent valves.The period of time in the engines cycle that's called overlap is where the problem comes from.From what you posted about the engines lousy power out put and the time expense and expertice that's going into this engine suggests that you want at least the rated out put of 340 to be reachhed.That Isky cam won 't get it done as it's only about 5 degrees bigger on the intake side and 4 degrees smaller on the exhaust side than the stock cam.Unless the exhaust side of the head is porte enough to bring the flow balance to 80 percent or better of the intake[stock is about 65]a single pattern cam is a bad idea especially with manifolds.Chev.didn't do it and niether should you.In a bubble top for 62 the 409 had just a little lope and a fairly strong mid range.What you've chosen will idle dead smooth get fair mileage but very little power,certainly not 340 from what I've seen about this build.
 
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