62 Impala progress update.

Kdurgin

Well Known Member
I have just started seriously working on my 62 SS again. I am working on final touches to the engine and installing a complete AAW Classic Update wiring kit. I have all the rear wiring done. The interior side dome lamps, under dash courtest lights and the SS Console lighting and glove box courtesy light is done. All the front lamps and horn are done. My Ididit steering column horn button was not working and it appears to have been due to coil bind in the button itself before the contacts would make so I removed the short rivet holding the terminal on and replaced it with a taller headed capscrew and now it works fine. I bought 2 NOS door jamb switches and neither one work so I reused one of my good originals and one original one I pulled from a donor car.I did install the rubber boots that came on the NOS door jamb switches though. The engine will now start from the ignition switch inside the car now. I have the power wires connected for the air ride system, heater and blower motor is wired.
I switched to a Holley 670 cfm with electric choke and vacuum secondaries. I had to redo the fuel line setup for that. I installed a cool carb technologies spacer so needed to get longer carb studs. I also installed a Moroso throttle return bracket with dual springs which worked out nicely. I used a K&N top and side high flow air breather. I will be changing the plug wires to a black set and will route them differently around the throttle linkage area. I installed a new Tremec TKO reverse swith with a weatherpack connectors so I can run the back up lights. I removed the neutral safety switch and installed a plug there. I figured a 19 tooth speedo is what I need with my 27.5" rear tires with 3.70 gears. I bought a custom cut to size speedo drive and cable assy but it is not fully installed yet. Verne is going to hook me up with a heater valve and my wiper motor stopped working after just 2 test uses. I need to look into that. Once this wiring is done and I get my shift console mounted, I need to install all of the new side glass so I can get the interior put in. My SS bucket seats are already all done and I have everything for the interior new in black.
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Nuts

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
Looking real nice !!!!! Take her out a light up the tires and have fun !!!

Bill
 

BubbleTrouble

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
I have just started seriously working on my 62 SS again. I am working on final touches to the engine and installing a complete AAW Classic Update wiring kit. I have all the rear wiring done. The interior side dome lamps, under dash courtest lights and the SS Console lighting and glove box courtesy light is done. All the front lamps and horn are done. My Ididit steering column horn button was not working and it appears to have been due to coil bind in the button itself before the contacts would make so I removed the short rivet holding the terminal on and replaced it with a taller headed capscrew and now it works fine. I bought 2 NOS door jamb switches and neither one work so I reused one of my good originals and one original one I pulled from a donor car.I did install the rubber boots that came on the NOS door jamb switches though. The engine will now start from the ignition switch inside the car now. I have the power wires connected for the air ride system, heater and blower motor is wired.
I switched to a Holley 670 cfm with electric choke and vacuum secondaries. I had to redo the fuel line setup for that. I installed a cool carb technologies spacer so needed to get longer carb studs. I also installed a Moroso throttle return bracket with dual springs which worked out nicely. I used a K&N top and side high flow air breather. I will be changing the plug wires to a black set and will route them differently around the throttle linkage area. I installed a new Tremec TKO reverse swith with a weatherpack connectors so I can run the back up lights. I removed the neutral safety switch and installed a plug there. I figured a 19 tooth speedo is what I need with my 27.5" rear tires with 3.70 gears. I bought a custom cut to size speedo drive and cable assy but it is not fully installed yet. Verne is going to hook me up with a heater valve and my wiper motor stopped working after just 2 test uses. I need to look into that. Once this wiring is done and I get my shift console mounted, I need to install all of the new side glass so I can get the interior put in. My SS bucket seats are already all done and I have everything for the interior new in black.
Reassy9-9-11002-1.jpg

Reassy9-9-11004.jpg

Reassy9-9-11006.jpg

good looking car.
 

Tom Kochtanek

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 12
Kevin:

Glad to learn that you are back on that most excellent restification project!

I've got a complete rebuilt 409 down the basement with no home, sure would look good after you wear out that SBC:).

Keep up the good work!

Cheers,
TomK
 

Kdurgin

Well Known Member
I actually drove it about 600 feet last night . I went 300 feet down the driveway onto the town road, turned around and drove back. When I bought the car 5-6 years ago, I brought it home, backed it off the trailer, did a burnout for about 50 feet, ( Powerglide with 4.56 gears and a posi) drove it into the garage and it was not driven again until last night. No smoke shows last night just a slow first gear run down and back. The Borgeson power steering seemed nice, not that I really got much of a test. My biggest concern right now is the clutch. I have a RAM clutch with all mechanical linkage and it pushes harder than I expected and has to be ALL the way in to shift into first or reverse without grinding. I supposedly have all stock/correct throwout bearing, throw fork, bell crank linkage and pedal stuff, but I may just need to adjust the upper and lower linkages to get the arms on the bell crank in optimum position. This was still a pretty big milestone for me as I have easily a couple thousand hours into this thing. It did look awseome outside at night with all the lights on. It is all registered and insured, and as a antique vehicle in Maine, I don't need a state inspection sticker. I do need to double check a bunch of stuff before I actually drive it on the road for any distance. Getting there slow but sure. I feel as though I am over the hump and the only job I have left that I am dreading is putting all the new side glass into the frames and installing it all.
 

DonSSDD

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Do you have the clutch pedal shaft through the firewall with the adjustment at the z bar (It could easily be added IMHO)? Way easier to adjust it to get the pedal a bit higher than what is on my 9 El Camino. I had a Centerforce 11 inch on my 63 vette, went to a dual friction 11 inch centerforce on the 62, much easier.

Don
 

Kdurgin

Well Known Member
Do you have the clutch pedal shaft through the firewall with the adjustment at the z bar (It could easily be added IMHO)? Way easier to adjust it to get the pedal a bit higher than what is on my 9 El Camino. I had a Centerforce 11 inch on my 63 vette, went to a dual friction 11 inch centerforce on the 62, much easier.

Don

The pedal can only be made so high and then it contacts the rubber stop. I do have the stock linkage through the firewall with the adjustable end where it meets the Z-bar. I'm wondering if I can adjust that so the arms are at a certain point in their travel where I get the most leverage and make the lower rod to the throw fork adjustable as well. Are you talking about a dual disc clutch?
 

DonSSDD

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
The adjustment will change the release point of the clutch to a higher point so you don't have to have it all the way to the floor, what is happening at the rubber stop at the top end of the pedal travel will have little effect on that.
Maybe Cecil can help with the leverage issue, but I seem to recall some mid year vettes had 2 holes on the clutch pedal for the through the firewall rod to connect and that changed the leverage.
Maybe adjust the clutch to get the engagement a bit higher, then see if you could drill a hole to improve the leverage? I don't know if those RAM clutches are noted to take a strong left leg or not.
I have one that looks like this:
183dualfriction.jpg

Don
 

tripower

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I have the same clutch that Don has pictured above, diaphragm. I think the Ram is a Bog & Beck. Much harder to disengage. I agree with Don on adjustment. Also what clutch fork are you using?
Car looks great and I understand about the side glass. I was dreading mine as well but it went just fine and works perfect. I have no doubt you will have the same results...:deal
 

Kdurgin

Well Known Member
Mine is a diaphragm type also. I am using the '62 style throw fork with the pin that goes down through the end of the arm where the linkage goes into from the Z-bar. The thing that doesn't seem right is all these parts are actual GM ( Z-bar was said to be removed from a 62 ) except the throw fork and the pin that goes through it. Using that setup, I had to lengthen the lower linkage from the z-bar to the throw fork to make the clutch pedal right. I believe I have the correct length throw out bearing and stand off that is threaded into the bell housing. I personally removed another Z-bar from a 62 recently and need to compare the arm indexing on it to the one I have installed to verify it is actually a 62 bar. I have a complete 64 Z-bar and linkage , throw fork setup that I can compare as well. Thanks.
 

62impala409

 
Supporting Member 1
Kevin, Verify that you have the correct throwout bearing installed. The 1 7/8" long bearing is used with the diaphragm style pressure plate and the 1 1/4" long bearing is used with the 3 finger Borg and Beck style pressure plate. I just went through this hard pedal, hard to adjust, etc. with a friend of mine that had clutch problems for years. Found the short bearing installed on his diaphragm clutch. Put in the long bearing and all his good. BTW, This clutch was so screwed up that he broke two Z bars. Leo
 

Kdurgin

Well Known Member
I adjusted it a little and drove it through the neighborhood again. It doesn't really push that hard but does need to be in all the way in to avoid grinding when going into gear from a stop. I'll see if I can get a measurement on the throw out bearing. I'm going away this morning and won't be home until Saturday afternoon, so I can try to check it out this weekend. I'm pretty sure I have the longer bearing in there, as right from the start I wanted to ensure the clutch fork was not too close to the firewall.
 

64ss409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 9
I think my Centerforce diaphragm clutch used the short TO bearing. I will see if I still have it somewhere.
I now have a Clutch Masters dual friction diaphragm clutch and it has the short bearing. I have it set with very little free pedal to make sure it disengages fully for an easy shift.
 

62impala409

 
Supporting Member 1
Another factor can be the clutch release arm manufacture AND there are both long and short versions of the pivot balls used inside the bell housing on GM applications. We had to use the short pivot ball with the long bearing to get the correct action on the diaphragm clutch. My earlier "short and long" bearing info was meant for a stock components. Leo
 
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