62 Impala Project

[Topstrap]

Out with the old and in with the new. Switched over the old open rear end third member and got the 3:55 posi unit in I got from Shan. The local NAPA wasn't going to be able to get the new gasket till Monday so I bought a sheet of rubberized gasket paper and made my own. Was kinda fun like the old days making them with a ball peen hammer and some silicone.

Found out my old rear was a 3:36 and they used that ratio with the higher horse 327/300HP with the aluminum intake which was kinda interesting. Knew it was an old 327 car but wasn't sure which HP it was.

Out with the old,

The new is ready,

Ready for blasting and a paint job.

Dennis & Chris

 

[Phil Reed]

If you are going to do some more blasting.....be sure to tape off the yoke so sand or media can not get behind the yoke and to the rear seal.

 

[Topstrap]

Tried to be really careful in that area, did not think to tape it off but didn't blast directly at that area. Will try to blow/rinse that area out really well.

Thanks

Dennis

 

[Topstrap]

First corner done. Had a heck of a time getting that spring compressed. I have an external compressor but no room to get it up in then back out. Won't even try to describe the contraptions we used to get it up in there. Then somehow it got twisted about 1/2" and didn't fit tight in the recessed areas. Now if I can figure out how to twist it that small bit so the top will drop in I'll be happy. Maybe when the car is together and we hit a big bump it'll twist on it's own. Gonna bug me now though.

Dennis & Chris

 

[LMBRJQ 60]

Hi Dennis,
I have had this before and used a load tie down (cargo strap) and used it sort of like the strap type oil filter wrench, worked OK

Steve

 

[Topstrap]

Another day, got to push in new bushings into all the rear control arms and panhard bar. Some went in easy and some, well lets just say I'm glad they are all done and in place. Bearings came today for the rear axles. Easy job we thought. First one pressed right off, second one was stubborn. Kept applying more pressure, more pressure, a wee bit more pressure. Then BANG, thought the press broke but ended up the bearing blew apart and pieces are hidden in places in the garage that I'm sure will never be seen again.

We finally cut four small grooves across the bearing piece that was left and applied a bit of heat and beat it off with a big chisel and hammer. No damage but hate when little things pop up to make an easy job a bit tougher.

New bearings went right on with no problem and will try to pick up a set of gaskets tomorrow and get the rear end under the frame and some brakes on.

Dennis & Chris

 

[Topstrap]

Almost had an setback, went to put those washers on the ends of the control arm bushings and the lower ones would not thread in. I already had to redo the passenger side upper control arm, with the new bushings in all the way the control arm moved back and forth on the shaft about an 1/8". Checked and the control arm was slightly wider than the other side. Hated to take it all apart again but didn't want to start short cutting near the beginning since that leads to bad habits later on. The threads were also all buggered up in the shaft and I just could not get a bolt to start in them so luckily I have the parts car and those parts were good and tight after the new bushings were pushed in. I did check the threads before putting this one together. I needed to salvage the new bushings from the bad arm so I cut the shaft in two to make getting them out easier.

When I got the car it had been started to be torn apart and the front end was on but not completely assembled. I'm wondering if somehow they slapped a wrong control arm on one side to be able to move it around to sell it. The bolts and washers weren't in any of the shafts on the control arms and I didn't check them before blasting and painting to reassemble. Warning, check the threads especially if the bolts are missing before preparing them for installation on the car.

Three of the four bottom ends on the cross shafts were really buggered up and filled with rust. Luckily I was able to get a tap started and got them cleaned back up. It might have been easier to just have bought all the control arms new with the bushings already installed if you can afford it. I think I'll start checking anything that has threads in it before assemble to make sure they are good.

Dennis, Chris and Jake

 

[Phil Reed]

I think I'll start checking anything that has threads in it before assemble to make sure they are good.

Dennis, Chris and Jake[/quote]

That's called experience!!!!

 

[tripower]

It is a good idea to chase all threads prior to assembly. Hope you don't have a issue with the new axle bearings leaking past the outer seal.

 

[Topstrap]

I was looking at those bearings. There are two O-rings on the outer part of the bearing but what keeps the oil from seeping past the inside between the axle and the bearing? Looks like there should be another seal somewhere. Never thought about putting a bit of Blue Loc-Tite on the axle before pressing the bearing on but it would of probably been wiped as is slid on.

Tried to find a close up drawing or picture of that area to make sure I had all the parts. I have the 61/62 shop manual but it really doesn't get too specific about installing the bearings. Have read where others have had problems with them leaking. I have a buddy that had a 62 Bel Air and I might go talk to him and see if he had any problems and how he dealt with it.

I found this seal but mine didn't have anything like it when I took it apart. Just the bearing and the gasket on the outer shield. Anyone have a detailed picture of where this would go? The axles are not in yet and can still press the bearing back off if there is another seal that goes in.

http://www.show-cars.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=7701

Thanks

Dennis, Chris and Jake

 

[Topstrap]

Got one rear brake setup on today. Had to grind a couple casting areas off the rearend flange so the aluminum mounting bracket would snug up tight and straight against the axle flange. Didn't need to use the spacers to get correct placement of the caliper on the rotor. Not sure yet if I have to use the short flexible hose that came with the caliper or the new pre-bent SS lines will go directly into the caliper.

Talked to the buddy that had the 62 409/409 bubble top about the rear end and the bearings and seals. He just happened to have a 55 Chevy there with one of the axles out and it had the same setup. Talk about timing it right, how many places can you run for help and they have the exact part lying right there by the door that I was asking about?

I didn't miss any parts in the way of seals or gaskets so I'll just hold my breath and hope these don't leak. Getting closer to being a roller every day. Glad there is a bolt/fastener store just out the road, I'm burning up more in gas making trips for SS/Zinc bolts/nuts/washers than sometimes the parts cost but they sure do make it look purdy.

Dennis, Chris and Jake

 

[entourageguy]

use the flex lines as it will make it easier to change pads when removing the caliper

 

[Topstrap]

Was drizzling and the Hotrod throws water spouts up all over the car and makes it a bear to clean so we stayed home from a really nice local show. Was also supposed to stop in at another buddies for a shooting get together but decided to work on the 62 instead.

Had the back passenger side brake assembly all done yesterday and we worked on the drivers side today, had to grind and sand some areas on the housing, mount and rotor to get the right fit again but wasn't too bad. Went to slide in the drivers axle. Went in about a 1/4" and stopped dead. Kept checking things but every time it would stop dead like it was hitting something solid inside. There was no way I put the short side in the passenger side and had them backwards..... or could I? Took the other side all apart to make sure and I had that one right. Shown a flashlight up the axle tube and the only thing we could see was something solid in the center carrier.

Took the center carrier back out to get a better look and the splines on the spider gear were a tad out of line with the other spline. Tried to get it to slide on the clutch plate with everything out in the open but that was like trying to put a cat in a bag so we finally put the carrier back in, reinstalled the passenger side axle and wedged a bar to hold it in place while we tried to twist the drivers axle slightly to get it to line back up. A few smacks with a bigger than normally big hammer to spin the axle and it slid right in. Probably old hat to you pros but had us stymied for a while.

Got the drivers side disc brake assembly on and everything tightened back up. The instructions weren't clear "as in none" on how the brake lines are to be run but when test fitting the pre-bent brake lines the flexible line from the caliper looks like it loops under the axle and comes up on the back side and connects to the SS hard ine where it fits into the holding tab on the housing. Will go get a new T fitting tomorrow and see how they all hook up.

Dennis, Chris and Jake

 

[Phil Reed]

The easiest way to line up the splines is to have the end cut off of an old axle and use it to line up the splines while still on the work bench. But...I know most guys do not have any extra axle to modify and use!!!!

 

[Topstrap]

Had to push/hide/tuck/bury/all the Impala parts, tools and other stuff and clean my shop so we could have my wife's Family Reunion in the shop. Been doing it for over 20 years now but every year it's such a mess it takes me nearly a week to get it cleaned up and presentable. This year with the Impala sitting in the midst of everything it was REALLY a mess. Finally got thru it and now can get back to some work on it.

The new 600 series power steering conversion kit came (minus the pump which is on backorder) from Ecklers. I knew I needed a manual center drag link so added it to the order. Was all ready to hit PAY and noticed an additional $120.00 fee for a core charge. Called them up and found out their center drag links require a core charge or yours in return. That would have made it over $260.00 for that center link. Thought I'd seen them at a better price so shopped a bit and first one I found was Impala Bobs and was $129.00 and no core charge. Saved a few bucks but hope I don't regret it and get something hammered out of an farm implement from China.

The steering box didn't come with bolts so a trip to the local bolt supply shop and 3 new 3/8 x 24 x 3" SS bolts, washers and lock washers got that taken care of. Everything lined up great with no modifications but with no engine or radiator in it I'll have to wait and see if it all clears like they promised. Had to cut a flat on one end of the splined shaft on the mill for the allen bolt to snug against and tighten the lock nut so it won't come loose. So far it looks great and does get rid of a lot of the mess from the factory power steering.

Also got most of the SS brake lines on and routed, they were "pre-bent" but just not always pre-bent exactly where they needed to be. Still haven't gotten the front two lines on the front crossmember bent or placed how I like yet so they are hanging there kinda out of kilter. The rear lines needed a bit of tweaking to clear the upper rubber bumper if the suspension bottomed out where they connected with the flexible lines coming from the calipers and fit into the tabs you weld onto the rear housing. Haven't welded the holding tabs on yet but they should clear everything.. time will tell I guess.

Going to start on building a body rotisserie and get read to start stripping the body and ordering the necessary panels. Should be interesting, haven't done anything like that before either so another new challenge to keep us awake at night reading on how to proceed.

Dennis, Chris and Jake

 

[quik9r]

Not knocking the nice work, but most SS hardware is grade 2 at best unless otherwise marked on the heads. I would recommend using factory hardware cleaned up or get some grade 5 bolts. Maybe some others can comment, looking good otherwise.

Quik9r

 

[Topstrap]

Been getting them at a supply shop not far from me that sells to the Mining/Gas/Oil industry locally and they do have grade 5 SS bolts. The SS bolts were grade 5 and the Zinc coated bolts used in places like the control arms are grade 8. The last three I got for the steering box were grade 5 SS but got these today at Lowes (Sunday and Tri-Cor was closed) but will run out tomorrow and grab 3 Zinc coated grade 8 ones after thinking about it a bit more. The SS bolts all have 3 lines on them. Have heard that the SS ones you get at most places are soft and that is why I went out to this Industrial Supply vendor.

Being old and forgetful I might have been saying grade 8 for everything. Been trying to buy good components and appreciate the help which is keeping me in line.

Dennis

 

[Topstrap]

Picked up a set of wheels and tires down at the Street Rod Nationals. Adding these really got me going again, can't wait to drop the engine/tranny in then the body when it's done. Did get it up on the rotisserie and will start hacking on the bad spots hopefully soon. Hope we inprove on it and not make it worse

Chris and Jake couldn't wait to take it for a ride, both also wanted to drive so each took their turn at the wheel. Think they enjoyed the short ride, no air conditioning so they had the windows down and elbows out the window. Can't wait, gonna be cool.

Dennis, Chris and Jake

 

[Iowa 409 Guy]

Picked up a set of wheels and tires down at the Street Rod Nationals. Adding these really got me going again, can't wait to drop the engine/tranny in then the body when it's done. Did get it up on the rotisserie and will start hacking on the bad spots hopefully soon. Hope we inprove on it and not make it worse

Chris and Jake couldn't wait to take it for a ride, both also wanted to drive so each took their turn at the wheel. Think they enjoyed the short ride, no air conditioning so they had the windows down and elbows out the window. Can't wait, gonna be cool.

Am uploading a short YouTube video and will post the link here when done.

Dennis, Chris and Jake

In the last pic it looks like they left the emergency brakes on when they went for a ride.

 

[Topstrap]

Got the body up on the rotisserie and started cutting off some bad metal. Front floor brace was bad on both ends as was the inner rocker panel area where the brace was welded. Worst place on the whole car is a 12" section of inner rocker panel and a couple small holes in the floor pan above the floor brace.

Never attempted this part before but all my buddies say just dive in and it'll get easier each time I cut a piece out and get it replaced.

Made a better video of when I got the car and some of the pictures of progress and the walk around.

Found out there is an Impala parts supplier within driving distance from me near Pittsburgh. Lutty's Chevy Warehouse, the lady said they are a warehouse and they stock most everything in their catalog. Have been using other vendors so far but will run up and pick up the sheet metal I need to get started quicker.

Dennis, Chris & Jake