63 Impala - brake issues
- Thread starter Eric Kozmic
- Start date
337, at 100 torque, can you remove studs without a power tool? I’ve had shops use torque sticks on my driver cars and I’ve been unable to remove the studs with a 1/2 inch drive socket bar. I’ve always torqued to 80 on all my vehicles and can remove the studs with the wheel wrench that comes with the vehicle in the case of having to change a flat.
Back in the day on these cars that had the jack handle used as a lug nut wrench that where at a angle 62,63,64 , probably others also ,i doubt anyone could exceed recommended torque or even close to 100 with that wrench. Probably more like recommended in the manual. So they never had any issues of wheels coming off or recall to my knowledge. I owned several of 63 and 64 and used that jack handle. Some people carried a 4 way for more speed which again doubt that would exceed torque by a lot. Think about it, 100 back in those days by hand wrench you would have to be king kong. Many women probably could change a tire back then. Makes more sense what was used back in those days is not sufficient today. Think about it.
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Seems like my lug nut torque question sent this thread down a rabbit hole!
Thanks to @nana1962409 for posting the pic. I have the same shop manual and didn’t see that listed.
I‘m going to call a few places today to see who can pull an axle and look into this further. I’m missing driving the 409!
Thanks to @nana1962409 for posting the pic. I have the same shop manual and didn’t see that listed.
I‘m going to call a few places today to see who can pull an axle and look into this further. I’m missing driving the 409!
Was you able to turn driveshaft???
My maybe no so wild guess is a piece of a broken gear tooth got wedged between spider gears and locks up that one side?? BUT it's posi so shouldn't both sides act same?
Should be able to turn one wheel and other side turn same direction easily being a positraction. A non posi turning one wheel other side will go opposite direction .Only thing i could think that the clutches are chattering on a turn. Additive for positraction sometimes will correct this . It takes a while to get worked in though. If there is No noise driving on a straight distance i would change the differential fluid if hasnt been done for some time and or just add the positraction additive and let it get worked in.
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He did that. True on the hose but this is a rear end so only one hose to a TEE, so that would affect both brakes
Eric , when you find out the problem would you please tell us. Very curious.
Will probably be into November, but I’ll get an answer & post to the thread.
Appreciate everyone’s input.
It’s been a hot minute since I’ve been on here, but I’m relieved to see a lot of familiar names still on here.
Appreciate everyone’s input.
It’s been a hot minute since I’ve been on here, but I’m relieved to see a lot of familiar names still on here.
You're right of course...I wasn't thinking about the tee.
The wheel torque specs for my 2018 Impala are 110 ft lbs. The specs for my 99 Silverado are 140 ft lbs. That is so tight I can't get the wheels off with the tools that came with the pickup. When I have new tires installed, I tell them to torque to 100 lbs. so I can get them off if I have a flat.
Geez, stud diameter determines torque. Many of newer trucks are 14mm, cars usually 12mm. The 2018 Impala has 14mm studs.
ALL are larger diameter then old cars at 7/16" and so they have higher values. 7/16" studs and bolts that are grade 8 have a torque range of 50-80 ft/lbs.
ALL are larger diameter then old cars at 7/16" and so they have higher values. 7/16" studs and bolts that are grade 8 have a torque range of 50-80 ft/lbs.
Good Morning All,
Wanted to post what was found on my 63 causing the rear wheel to “lock up”.
In short, it was a tooth from the pinion gear. (Zoom in on the “6 o’clock” position in the pinion gear pic)
I’m thankful this only happened as I was backing out of the driveway. No other damage observed in the differential or posi unit.
Once Rob @ LWA disassembled the rear end, he sent me a couple of pics.
One good thing out of this, I decided to go with a different ratio (lower) for the new pinion / ring gear setup.
Merry Christmas!!
Wanted to post what was found on my 63 causing the rear wheel to “lock up”.
In short, it was a tooth from the pinion gear. (Zoom in on the “6 o’clock” position in the pinion gear pic)
I’m thankful this only happened as I was backing out of the driveway. No other damage observed in the differential or posi unit.
Once Rob @ LWA disassembled the rear end, he sent me a couple of pics.
One good thing out of this, I decided to go with a different ratio (lower) for the new pinion / ring gear setup.
Merry Christmas!!
