63 Impala SS 409- restoration

Bartman409SS

Well Known Member
Hi folks. Well it begins...
Going to start with replacing trunk area floor pans and the front drivers side. Full replacement pans came with the car but I won’t need them all. The car is actually very solid. As for the body, only surface rust and a couple small areas on the lower drivers fender and lower rear quarter. That’s it. As you can see the lovely diamond tucked interior from the 70’s and the Powerglide and 409 are in the car. The heads were removed and rebuilt already to 425 hp specs.
I’ll keep updating the thread with new pics as things progress.
thanks
Barry
 

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59K9

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
bart, that's a really nice place to start, a solid car...what are your plans, restore it and keep it in a garage , restore and drive, or race...
 

63impalass409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
For a auto car it has the wrong shifter in it, that looks like a 64 65 auto shifter which bolts to the floor, for 63 shifter bolts directly to the powerglide and almost looks like a 4 speed shifter. Correct powerglide for 63 is a bitch to find as it had the bosses for the shifter( wish I kept my powerglide) as newer powerglides did not have the holes
 

Bartman409SS

Well Known Member
Hello guys. Have a question for you guys and I’m looking for opinions. I am considering 2 directions for my build. My car is an original 340 hp with a Powerglide. Would my restored end product be more valuable as:
1. Restored to 340 hp specs with the Powerglide?
2. Restored to 425 hp specs with solid cam, 11:1, dual quads and 4 speed? I have a rebuilt Super T10 with Centerforce clutch/pp/flywheel and clutch pedal conversion kit.
I have all the engine parts to go either direction and I know which one would be more fun to drive, I just wonder if the care restored would be more valuable in original form or built to HP specs?
looking forward to hearing your thoughts and suggestions.
thanks
Bartman.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
If you have all the papers to PROVE that it's original,the 340/glide would because it is just that.Failing that ,it's just another "Clone"and the 425/4 speed is more desirable.Either way,use modern pistons,cams,rods,head work procedures when building that engine and have FUN .
 

Bartman409SS

Well Known Member
Thanks Don. That’s what I thought... it’s definitely an original 340 hp car and that’s the way I was leaning... it’s just so tempting...lol.
 

Iowa 409 Guy

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
What Don said. It's your money and from what I've seen about restorations, lose as much as you can afford. :guitar

I'd hate to add up what I've put in my car since 1988 and especially this year. Luckily I divide everything I spend by 3 as the 3 kids will inherit everything if I don't spend it all first.:flag:drums:burnout:burnout:burnout
 
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Iowa 409 Guy

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
How bout a stock appearing but mucho hot rodded 340hp and your T10? Little cheaper that way, and it’ll burn rubber fo sho:good

What casting # are your cylinder heads?
The 425hp would be way more fun.

One of these. I sure had a lot of good times hammering on my 340hp/t10 before.......:burnout:burnout you can run all the stock stuff if your tires don't hook up. Beat the crap out of mine with with wide ovals.....
 

Bartman409SS

Well Known Member
I like the way you guys think! Lol. I knew you’d have some great ideas. I have 2 sets, 690’s and 333’s- which have been fully built and now have HP valves, springs etc. I’d probably use them. I kinda like the idea of the 340hp sleeper and keep the 690’s and HP 409 with solid cam and 11:1 for another project or....
 
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