63 rear end help

Aqua409ss

Well Known Member
Hi guys
Guessing this question has popped up a couple of time , but ive found a 12 bolt complete diff out of
69 camaro ,limited slip 3;31 .
Since ive had the 409 in the car with stock 10 bolt, the back wheel is way too easy to fry through 1,2nd on the th400 , still running the engine in and would hate to see how badly i could fry them from off the lights.
I really want a posi diff , have been quoted ,to hand my pumkin over and have it fiddled with and get a eaton posi put in there with 3;55 gears for around the $1500 mark including labour, but then im thinking " still stuck with the 10 bolt etc.... "
this is what ive found,,
Chev 69 Camaro heavy duty 12 bolt diff rebuilt limited slip 3.31 ratio,c-clip new axles bearings,finned brake drums complete diff with hand brake cables,.will need brake shoes...

this diff should also fit Pontiac firebird,and nova as well.. $2000 aus



$_57-7.JPG
I thought for the extra $500 may as well up grade to a 12 Bolt . End off the day ill will be wanting a 4 speed manual in the car, i will be wanting more power, and yes i will be giving it a bit of grieve.....
Is this an easy project? worth while?
Thanks in advance ...:poke
 

tripower

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
That seems a bit high to me for a 12 bolt and you still have to fit it to the car. If you can't do the work yourself it can get pretty expensive. You would be better off purchasing a 12 bolt housing already set up for 59-64 X frame car.
Also the 59-64 X frame rear is probably the hardest rear to put the brackets on if you don't have a jig.
 

Ishiftem

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I think you would be better off getting a bolt in 12 bolt. Be about the same cost and less hassle.
 

models916

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
Bracket kit from Currie is $160. Width is correct (60"). Upper brackets would have to weld to the cast center section (not easy). Weld on the track bar mount. This is not even an easy bolt in with the correct parts. If you're not drag racing, fixing the orig is the way to go and will hold up pretty well with all the parts. I would use the Nitro posi and ring and pinion, Moser axles, axle cap studs and a support on the drivers side cap, solid spacer instead of the crush sleeve.
 

Aqua409ss

Well Known Member
hey guys cheers, Models sounds like what your saying im going to give a try and keep the stock diff , either going to put a Posi unit
into it or hopefully get a p case pumpkin sent over either way will be putting in Moser axles, axle cap studs and a support on the drivers side cap, solid spacer instead of the crush sleeve.
The 9inc conversion with with all bit was around the $4000 mark .

cheers for the help all way appreciate it


:burnout
 

models916

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
Stock pumpkin works with the posi. Needs some grinding on a spot where the P case has a void. I have heard Eaton is out of production (only what's left on the shelves), Auburn is not that good (cone type) Strange (all gone) and the Nitro (fantastic) version is a copy of the original only better material and chrome molly spiders and carbon fiber clutches. I always run one cheap U-joint in the rear as a sacrificial part to not break the expensive stuff.
 

Aqua409ss

Well Known Member
Hey Models

I like that a whole lot man! going to check it out, ive a guy over here that has quoted me $1500 with putting the Eaton posi in the original Pumpkin plus changing gears to 3;55. I am going to organise a vist up to meet him, he has a good rep over here and he has a 62 impala called "mouse trap" that im keen to look at.
hope too get this sorted soon.... tick one more box
 
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