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Tooth

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
All Vale train parts in my 468 are erson, even the 1.7 Severe duty rocker arms. No problems to this day! World products and Erson and dart are all the same company now I believe it’s called PBM World products. They also sell comp products too. Look it up and check it out. They can make any grind of billet rollercam you spec to them and have some in stock. A billet cam is a billet cam what makes it unusual is the grind. You can request any grind you want but you have to provide them with Numbers if they don’t have one already designed available. I’ll post pics of my parts in a few minutes.
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Tooth

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
Tim, I run my car at the track, and on the street. I have turned some pretty good RPM on the street with street tires drove a lot of miles and ran it pretty hard. Have never had anything come out of adjustment. No ticking rocker arms or bent pushrod’s still solid! I checked the valve lash and it has never moved. Zero lash with a half a turn and lock it down. The last thing I bought for the valve train was the pushrods, put it all together and then checked geometry with an adjustable pushrods. I know how valuable information is, and one can’t get everything right all the time. But I’ve had no trouble and will do it again Using the same Erson components. And it’s not the first time I’ve used her some parts. I have a friend that builds all his engines with Erson parts. Competition products are awesome too. They just cost more. And if ERSON was good enough for Grumpy Jenkins it aught to be good enough for me!
 
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Tim

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 4
I’m not pro anything other than who has good results with somebody’s stuff. If I save that much with Erson then I can go that way. I’ve seen Erson stuff at my local engine shop Nova Auto and didn’t know what it was. Much like my W I just want something that’s fun but is done right and reliable. Launching it off stop lights is a pre requisite. I’m certainly not cheap otherwise that W would be in the steel bin. I did get a set of 781 for heads just because I want to do them myself and for $200 checked. Once again Don, Tooth and James are a huge help. Since doing the W I have the engine build bug!!
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
OK,Just remember that if you use a cam in the range that I posted you're going to need a 25-2800 stall converter for best results according to the cam grinders themselves.
 

Tim

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 4
Pulled the heads and pan off today. Everything looks good and turns,
Don, can’t feel any ridge with my fingernail in the cylinder walls. All the wall don’t look like they have any scoring either.
crank is cast and 4 bolt mains. Rods look good and are 3/8 bolts.
 

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Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
At the power and rpm levels that we discussed there's no need to do more than a basic blue print of that bottom end.This thing could be a very easy build. I know that I said a 10-1 compression but I think that 9.7 would be safer for strickly pump ffuel.Maybe Tooth can chime in about that. Now's the time to measure every thing,as it comes apart.
 

Tim

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 4
I’ll clean up where the head gaskets were and take some pics. I’ll measure each piston in the hole as is And write it down. Pistons now are flat top.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Looking good,likely a .010 clean up is all that will be needed.When you get pistons try to find some with a .010 larger pin height and you should come out very close to .000 deck.Weisco does that for Skip White,and likely for others as well.Right now White is selling them for 478 and change USD.It's going to be hard find a quality forged BB piston any cheaper.
 

Tim

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 4
Looking good,likely a .010 clean up is all that will be needed.When you get pistons try to find some with a .010 larger pin height and you should come out very close to .000 deck.Weisco does that for Skip White,and likely for others as well.Right now White is selling them for 478 and change USD.It's going to be hard find a quality forged BB piston any cheaper.
I’ll order a set and get them before I send the block out. That way they can get it at 0 with the right pistons. Looks like there’s a bit of score in a couple of holes. Nothing that 30 can’t clean up so I’ll get 30 over pistons and do it alll at once.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Before you order piston,have the heads once finished cc'd.I suspect they're around 124 cc's but might be smaller.Since yoiu're going iron heads on a non-quench engine we've got to keep the compression down to 10.-1 max.for easy running on pump gas
 

Tim

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 4
I have a big block book Don that says they are 122 and on skips site says the 25cc ones would be 9.84-1. There’s really only piston to pick from based on what I need. To manage the compression and for shits and giggles the cc comes out at 122 can the engine shop plane them to get the cc to the compression? 119 cc gives me 10-1 KP433A3 are the ones I looked at.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
I'm with you,that's the first piston they list and would be the best choice for your build.I saw an internet site that said they were supposed to be 118 so 97-9.8 will be fine.That 25 cc piston would be it,and yes they can flat mill the heads to lower the cc's but do it after the head work is done .
 

Tim

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 4
I’ll order Pistons, cam and cam bearings to start with. That will get the block done ready to put together. The heads will be a bunch of work, they will put the valves in, measure CC, I’ll take them all apart to do the port work, send them back to mill if needed then put them back together. There’s a lot of time in that process but in the mean time the block can get done. Relatively easy build compared to the 348 just takes time.
 

Tim

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 4
Started taking everything out today. Pistons and rods, rods have pressed pins and the new says either float or press. I se they come with spiral locks so assuming floating. Can you re bush the rods to accommodate? Or do I have to buy new rods. Crank looked excellent. A little scuff by nothing grooved on 1 and 2 journal. No marks on any bearings other than wear and not much of that either.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
You have the option of using either method.If you start spending money on stock rods by bushing them you could buy new after market rods.I'd have the stockers freshened up and the pins pressed in.Those stock rods will easily handle the targets ,no drama.
 

Greg Reimer

Well Known Member
If you're wanting more than 450 horsepower or so, get the aftermarket rod with pin bushings, get some light pistons, float the pins, and the bottom end reliability will be better. That rule applies to a 327,a 409, big block rat motor, or anything. All these rod cores are probably around 50 or more years old, it's better money to buy the aftermarket rod and not have to have problems with something that is at the near end of its fatigue life.Can't see destroying old castings that are getting harder and harder to locate and replace.
 
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