Best Power Steering Kit Suggestions.

Ausie59

Ausie59

Member
Hi All.
I have a 348 in a 1959 Impala. It has a 605 Power steering conversion kit in it. I have recently fitted a reconditioned power steering box and had to grind away the casting to allow for clearance for the power steering pump and pulley to miss the box. The box has started to leak fluid and of course , as I have ground the casting, I will not be able to return it for a refund. I'm really not happy with this set up and would like to fit a better conversion kit to the car.
Does anyone recommend a particular kit that they are happy with? That allows for a decent amount of clearance for steering components?

Are these kits easy to install? I've seen some that require a cut out radiator. I'm Okay with doing this if the kit is worth the effort.
Some kits I've seen are:- Borgeson-Delphi 600 based, CPP-500 Series Power Steering Conversion Set and Global West.

Suggestions would be greatly appreciated. If you have some photos of the conversion, that would be great too.

Cheers..... Ausie59.......... Australia...........
 
DonSSDD

DonSSDD

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Nothing wrong with stock imho, lots of issues with conversions, like bump steer, radiator fit, overly sensitive steering, etc. You can make them work but it takes patience and time and money when you do a conversion.
 
Jeffrey Osstyn

Jeffrey Osstyn

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
I have a '63 Impala, used Global West stuff to correct bump steer, used stock later model PS pump but modified to fit and custom brackets. Also used the 500 box I believe. Steers like late model auto, nice, but not cheap, also not bolt in! Notched radiator tank also.
 
plumcrazy

plumcrazy

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
We did the same conversion with the CPP system for our 62. It was not just a bolt on, there was a tiny bit of dremel work we needed to clear the belt also, but very happy with it. The reason I mention CPP is they stand behind their products. We were getting a little loose in the steering and thought it was their pump, called them, they looked up our purchase 10 years prior and without hesitation were willing to swap no cost.

So if we were to pick again, we'd walk back to CPP...
 
G

Geary Trussell

Well Known Member
The 605 is likely going to leak but it takes up the least run cross car than all the available aftermarket gear boxes. If you have a w engine and big radiator make sure you do some measurements. I am running a 605 on my '59 because its the only one that would fit with a serpentine belts set-up. I believe the 500 or 600 are better performing boxes but if you have a fit problem then the 605 will do. I sent my 605 box over to a company that specializes in Nascar steering boxes in NC and they fixed the leaks I had on the recon 605, no leaks after that.
 
boxerdog

boxerdog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
There are several out there, and I don't know which one I saw...they aren't cheap and they use up space under the dash, but nothing under the hood, no pumps, belts, hoses, fluid, etc. I know some of the Nova guys have some junkyard conversions working, too. Might be worth looking at.
 
La Hot Rods

La Hot Rods

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
Subaru had a electric power steering pump on their SVX
The pumps didn't last long, the brushes were to soft.
 
D

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Take a look at the "Unisteer" systems.My only dislike about them is that it does away with the ability to use a colum mounted shifter.
 
jdk971

jdk971

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
from what i have read, all it does is go to manual steering if it brakes. they had a company on that tv car show
that is a sales show in my opinion. it is on sundays here in ohio. it is dustless blaster type of show. maybe motorhead garage. jim
 
Ausie59

Ausie59

Member
cruzin said:
Im a dealer in Sweden and have been in PS conversions since late 90s, i only sell Borgeson 600 kit now, sold about 60 kits and thats the best kit. 605 always leaking, CPP is hitting the radiator 9 of 10 times.
Click to expand...

Where would I buy the Borgeson 600 kit from? Do you have some photos of the installed kit with a 348 in a 1959 Impala? Is there plenty of clearance from the motor to the power steering box?
 
cruzin

cruzin

Well Known Member
Ausie59 said:
Where would I buy the Borgeson 600 kit from? Do you have some photos of the installed kit with a 348 in a 1959 Impala? Is there plenty of clearance from the motor to the power steering box?
Click to expand...

I buy them from Borgeson, but several US vendors sells them.
I havnt mounted any with 348/409 yet but ive sold several kits with 348/409 brackets and i havnt heard any problems.
Heres a 1960 SB i did for a customer recently. 6D0EB88C-5F7C-40CA-818A-E03696224584.jpeg
 
B

blkss64

Well Known Member
I Have a few questions regarding the Borgeson 600 kit. It looks like there is clearance for the radiator, shroud and pump.
Most conversions use a manual steering center link and pitman arm. Is this what is used in your conversion?
Some kits cause the steering linkage to be at a different angle than stock so you have to drill another hole in the frame
to attach the idler arm to compensate. Is this necessary to do this? If it is not necessary, does the adapter plate to attach
the gear box to the frame solve this? Some people have reported a need to repalce their upper control arms to solve a
bump steer condition. Is this necessary with the Borgeson set-up.
Thank you. Jon
 
pvs409

pvs409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 11
Jon's questions are very valid.
I could not get my Borgenson 600 box to fit on my 62 SS 409 Convertible or my 62 SS 409 Hardtop (it was tried on this Hardtop first -it hit the factory 409 deep groove PS pulley -had to wrap the hoses around the bottom of the Borgenson box -it did clear the 409 radiator)
  • So for my 62SS 409 Convertible --I made new C&C cut mounting plate for the Borgenson box to continue to clear my factory 4 core radiator and to clear my factory 409 pulley on the pump(the plate with the steering box would not allow the clearances to the the pulley )
  • Then on my convertible the steering shaft connected to the pump ended up not lining up with the bottom of my factory 4 speed column. There was a significant angle in the shaft that would require 2 swivels on the double splined shaft designed to connect to the factory connector on my column.
  • I even purchased a Global West front suspension and did not use it since it required too many modifications to my original power coated frame(you have to move the stabilizer bar to in front of the steering box, and modifications possibly to the idler arm).
  • Yes you do have to use non factory PS control arms for the Borgenson unit
  • I was not installing tubular control arms on my frame of restored 62 SS 409 convertible to get rid of steering problems with any system. Original control arms were staying on the car
After taking pictures of the fit on my convertible I removed everything and installed factory power steering with all new hoses, rebuilt by US company control valve, new cylinder and everything works fine just like my other two 1962'S with factory power steering.

Do not try to use Unisteer on 61 to 64's ( I have links to some who did and removed them from their car)

Paul
 
cruzin

cruzin

Well Known Member
blkss64 said:
I Have a few questions regarding the Borgeson 600 kit. It looks like there is clearance for the radiator, shroud and pump.
Most conversions use a manual steering center link and pitman arm. Is this what is used in your conversion?
Some kits cause the steering linkage to be at a different angle than stock so you have to drill another hole in the frame
to attach the idler arm to compensate. Is this necessary to do this? If it is not necessary, does the adapter plate to attach
the gear box to the frame solve this? Some people have reported a need to repalce their upper control arms to solve a
bump steer condition. Is this necessary with the Borgeson set-up.
Thank you. Jon
Click to expand...

This is my experiences:

1. Yes, you must use the pitmanarm from the manual steeringbox.
2. Yes, you have to redrill the lower hole to the idlerarm, just take out the lower bolt, move the idlerarm so the centerlink is paralell to the ground, drill a new lower hole using the idlerarm bracket in place as a template.
3. I have not have any problems hitting the swaybar on the cars i have done.
4. Its very important that the box is working in the center position when you drive straight front, because its tighter in that position, In some cases the 4 wider splines on the pitman axle in the box doesnt line up so the pitmanarm is straight forward, the best way is to grind those 4 splines of the pitman arm so you can put it in any direction, splines by splines.
Then position the box/steeringwheel in center and put the frontwheels straight forward and then slide the pitmanarm to the box.
If you mount it 1,2,3 splines off center the car is crazy to drive, it goes between tighter and loser when you drive straight forward.
 
Ausie59

Ausie59

Member
Hi All.
Does anyone have some photos with the Borgenson 600 box fitted to a 1959, with a 348 motor and can share their installation experience?
Still not convinced that this is the best option.
Thanks all for your contributions to this topic.

Cheers......Ausie59..........
 
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