Brake master cylinder

[Carmine]

Hi everyone. I just bolted up my rebuilt power brake booster and went to fit the new master cylinder. The new master cylinder is a dual reservoir one for all drum brakes and is suppose to fit my application. I couldn't get it to bolt up. There is a rod that comes out of the booster and is seated as deep in the booster as it will go. Its about 4.5 inches or so long. The only movement with this rod would be forward. I looked at the back of the new mc and where the rod would hit, the indentation/slot is only about 1/2 inch deep. Looked at the old one and the same area is about 1 3/4 inch deep. I tried the old one again and it bolted up fine. Should I be looking for a shorter booster rod/plunger if in fact they even make one??? I bought the mc sometime ago and don't know if it is returnable. The old one, where the rod makes contact (plunger), is 1" in diameter. The new one is 1 1/8" in diameter.
There are 2 pics to look at. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you, Carmine.

 

[1958 delivery]

You have the wrong master. You need one for manual brakes with the deep hole to match your booster.

 

[Carmine]

You have the wrong master. You need one for manual brakes with the deep hole to match your booster.

Any idea what year might fit?? This one came from Ecklers and was suppose to fit '58-'72 Chevys with power drum brakes. TY, Carmine.

 

[1958 delivery]

Any idea what year might fit?? This one came from Ecklers and was suppose to fit '58-'72 Chevys with power drum brakes. TY, Carmine.

Ecklers is lost.
There are many masters that will work, is there a particular "look" you are looking for? Post a picture of what you like and I will tell you what to buy.

 

[Carmine]

Ecklers is lost.
There are many masters that will work, is there a particular "look" you are looking for? Post a picture of what you like and I will tell you what to buy.

Just a plain old one that works with my power booster for drum brakes would suit me just fine. Nothing chrome. The simpler looking, the better. Something that looks like it belongs there. Thanks.

 

[1958 delivery]

Only the original single looks like it belongs there, LOL.
I use the Corvette dual and so do many others. Some prefer the thinner Camaro type. I'll post some pictures of different styles, give me a little time.

 

[Carmine]

OK. No rush. Thank you.

 

[1958 delivery]

There's this style from 1967 Impala 1" bore
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1367992&cc=1321478
Or the Corvette 1" bore 1967 manual brakes
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=964720&cc=1321377
I use the Corvette but either will work for you. There are other variations on appearance just make certain it's 1" bore for manual brakes. Never buy a rebuilt master.

 

[1958 delivery]

Technically the Impala is for drum/drum and the Corvette is disc/disc but either will do the job. The only real difference is the extra volume of the Corvette master. They usually do not put residual pressure valves in the drum master any more, something that was done for drum brakes.

I would stay away from Ebay masters, although they may look the same most are selling some really inferior Chinese units that are bad. Most all masters will be from China but some are very good and some are very bad. I tried the lower cost masters once and started getting trouble calls within two weeks, immediately stooped those. The one I use cost double the amount but in over 10 years have only had one person claim he had a bad master. I use Centric brand Corvette master for what it's worth. I would trust Bendix, Cardone, Raybestos but new only no rebuilds.
The Impala master (drum/drum) is thinner then the Corvette, some like that look better.

 

[Carmine]

I just ordered the '67 Impala one that you suggested from RockAuto. Thank you very much for all your time and help '58 Delivery. I really appreciate it, Carmine.

 

[1958 delivery]

I just ordered the '67 Impala one that you suggested from RockAuto. Thank you very much for all your time and help '58 Delivery. I really appreciate it, Carmine.

Call me Mike. Anytime hope it works out well for you.

 

[Carmine]

My Bendix mc arrived today. The first thing I did was check the depth of the piston/plunger, where the booster rod fits, against the old. The same. Perfect. I'm as happy as a pig in manure, Carmine.

 

[Carmine]

I bench bled my mc and installed it. It took a while to get the brake fluid to the rear wheels. Bigger struggle to get fluid to the front. Had to bleed the mc again and tighten all the leaks I didn't know existed. I think I finally got it after it seems like forever. Just couldn't get the air out of it.

I tried to find an answer to this before bothering you fine people, but I didn't. So here is the million dollar question. My dual mc has 2 ports. The front one accommodates a 3/16" line and the rear is for a 1/4" line. I ran a solid 3/16" line from the rear all the way to the front port of the mc. I ran a 1/4" line from the rear port of the mc to the distribution fitting on the driver side frame which feeds the driver side front brake and also goes to the passenger side distribution fitting which feeds the passenger brake. It stops at that location. I believe I read someplace that the front reservoir of the mc should feed the front brakes and the rear portion the rear brakes. So, does it matter which line goes to which reservoir and do I have it back asswards as usual??? Both reservoirs appear to be the same size with the same amount of fluid. I will change it if it is suggested that the way I have it isn't correct. I want it to function properly. As usual, many thanks, Carmine.

 

[1958 delivery]

Front port is for front brakes on most Chevy masters. Line diameter is of no consequence.
I only use the Corvette master, when I bench bleed those the front port puts out a distinct more amount of fluid then the rear one does. With drum brakes and no prop valve you shouldn't have much trouble bleeding the system. Hopefully you are using some sort of power bleeder, trying to use the foot/pedal method is way too difficult with an entirely empty system.
I would change the lines to front to front and use a power bleeder. Some have good success with gravity bleeding initially.