And I still do! It’s what Ronnie and I agreed on 30+ years ago so why break tradition!!!! I do use the Driven break in oil for the first test and tune outing!
Brad Penn was the old Kendall. Now it’s Penn Grade and wonder if it’s still the same stuff or been cheapened like everything else. I have use Penn Grade and VR1 in 10/30 and haven’t had any oil related failures. At least nothing I could attribute to oil for sure.Oil preferences, almost as dangerous as discussing religion or politics!
I've used VR-1, Brad Penn, and Gibbs Driven with great results. Not cheap, but compared to what we got into these motors, I'm not gonna penny pinch when it comes to protection, even in my street cruiser.
BTW- Brad Penn and Gibbs look suspiciously like the old Kendall GT-1.
Just looking for something good at a decent price.Bob, how often do you change your oil? Would a few extra bucks brake the bank for a available on the shelf oil?
I used to buy allot of BG products amazing “stuff”I use to sell a lot of the BG brand EOS (engine oil supplement)
I have been using Driven oil 10w - 40 and was advised to use VR1 20w -50 or Rotella T6 diesel oil in my big black 409/425. I haven’t had any issues with the conventional Driven oil 10w - 40. Driven has a high level of zinc. It was suggested I change weight for better protection. I would like your feed back with VR1 thank you in advance.I ran Valvoline VR1 20W50 with zinc for 10 years, racing 8 of them. No problems and engine looked fine when tore down.
Thank youI have used 15w40 and 20w50 in my 09. For the last 10 years or so have been using 10w30 Lucas hotrod oil. The car liked them all. I will stick with the 10w30.
Thank youThank you. I don’t know the clearance the engine was rebuilt before I acquired it. I know Driven break in oil was used when the incorrect Isky racing cams were replaced. They correct Isky cams were ordered and broken in with the Driven brand breaking oil. I was reading about Driven GP1 still doing research. Only con for me is it’s synthetic not conventional like what I am currently using. I still have one case of Driven 10W-40 left. I was going to utilize my last case for this season‘s oil change or keep it as reserve and try the 20W - 50. My hesitation to switching weight is, I do not want to experience problems, but reading feedback from the forum and suggestions from friends, I will figure out my next move thank you all for your feedback.I’m a fan of the Driven GP1. The VR1 is not the same as it was. The engine shop I’ve been working at started to have an increase in flat tappet failures and were using VR1. After researching the problem it was discovered the oil formula had changed. They switched to driven GP1 and the failure rate came back down. I wouldn’t use 20w-50 unless I had really large clearances. I think people still are stuck on it as a hold over from when parts weren’t as good and large clearances were needed to keep stuff alive. And keep the diesel oils for your diesel.
I have been using Valvoline VR-1, 20W-50, in my 350 and my 409 since the early 90's. Never a problem.