Correct oil filter for 283?

Impalabricker

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Good morning folks, so I changed the oil filter on my 283 "first time in either impala" and it leaks to all hell. I told the guy at O'Reillys it was a 283 and he gave me a small K&N high performance oil filter saying thats all he had in stock. I bought it out of desperation and not wanting to drive to the other auto parts store. I thought it was overkill, but now it's just leaking. Now Im trying to order 1 from Amazon and I see some talking about the "original" canister type and the smaller ones with adapter. Can someone just tell me which one to order so I can get the right one, canister or whatever? Thanks
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Do you have a spin on style filter on the car now? If so where is the sealing ring located,at the edge of the filter base or inboard of the filter case? If it's at the outer edge,your adapter uses the Ford filter as it sounds in this case.An easier way would be to order the same filter that you took off the car.When you pull the filter back off check that the nut in the center of the adapter is tight.FYI,The 283 from the factory never had a spin on filter.Some adapters use the Ford filter,some use the chevrolet filter.The differences are he size of the nipple the filter screws on the engine with and the location of the sealing ring location.
 

Impalabricker

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Thanks, Ill go out and take the other filter off and check. Unfortunately my wife threw the old one away. Me thinking all American V8 oil filters were created equal,. didn't bother to check much of anything from there.
 

Impalabricker

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Ok, just an update for those of you kind enough to reply earlier...

The filter was/is that of the standard screw-on type, the rear main seal is NOT leaking (thank God). The oil filter was not leaking.,.. the problem was... drumroll... (The valve covers}. Yes, it turns out, I never thought to check the bolts on the valve covers since I've owned the car, about 5 weeks. Turns out some were finger tight, which caused oil to seep out of the rear edge and drip down, straight to the oil filter, then to the ground. All is well with the engine now. Next step, can anyone tell me why my Powerglide is not shifting to 2nd gear even with new vacuum modulator.
 

La Hot Rods

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
Do you have manifold vacuum to the modulator?
Is the shift linkage adjusted correctly?
Is the passing gear linkage adjusted correctly?

Don, the powerglide uses a valve like a ford with the swinging weights and the pin through the tail shaft.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
If the linkage for the throttle valve is unhooked is will likely shift very early and slip.A 62 with a 283 has a cast iron unit unless somene changed it for a later model.The iron ones had the governor in the side and if the gear on it fails it won't shift.Try this.Take off in low range and accelerate to 30 mph at light throttle,shift the trans to drive.If it doesn't shift the problem is internal,if it does it's likely linkage.
 

Junky

Well Known Member
Assuming that your car is a 283 1962 model year, and all original, then you have the cast iron powerglide. The aluminum powerglide was only fitted to the 327 engines in 1962. If you have a 1962 Factory Assembly Manual, it will give you the proper procedure for setting the linkage used in your car. If your car has modifications to the carburetor and / or intake manifold, then I can't say how that is going to effect the linkage settings. You also have to be careful that some previous owner of the car installed the linkage incorrectly. I had this issue with my car, when the engine and transmission were reinstalled after being rebuilt. The factory service manual helped me to figure out my issue by comparing the drawings to my car, and resetting everything to factory settings. You darn near have to become a mechanical sleuth sometimes to determine the problems resolutions.
 
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