Disc brake conversion.

MRHP

 
Supporting Member 1
#1
I am looking at a front disc brake kit from tomsclassic on e bay. It will be a manual brake not power brake. Has anyone dealt with this fella? How are his kits? Just checking before I spend the money! Thanks guys! Brian
 

skipxt4

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 14
#2
Speedway Motors, has a Deluxe front disc brake kit for 58-64 Chev. for $ 240.00 :clap:clap Lines, hoses, prop. valve, master cylinder, booster etc. are extra. Don't know about the quality, of this kit, but I've done business with them, before. They are A+ :deal
 

Phil Reed

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 10
#3
Brian:
That's Auto City Classics in Isanti, MN. GREAT people!!! You shouldn't have any problems there!!
 

Tic's60

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
#5
Our own 58Delivery here on the forum has an excellent kit he sells as well. PM him and I am sure he can hook you up.
 

jester

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
#6
I am looking at a front disc brake kit from tomsclassic on e bay. It will be a manual brake not power brake. Has anyone dealt with this fella? How are his kits? Just checking before I spend the money! Thanks guys! Brian
Just make sure that the kit you buy doesn't make you run 15" rims. Some of us convert to disc and still want to run the stock 14 X 5 wheels. CCF's kit does not allow you to do that. You need 15" rims or a 14" rim made for a disc brake. Good luck. You will be very happy with how that car will stop. :cool:
 

k9hotrodder409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 15
#7
I put '68 to '72 Chevelle or GM A body rotors, bearings,seals & Calipers on my '57. I used everything else from Master power Brakes in N.Carolina. Carmine had a kit that just included Power master cylinder,booster,all the lines,Prop valve and caliper mounting brackets for the tri-five Chevys.:deal The only mod I had to do was to redrill the cotter pin hole in the stock '57 spindles to acommodate the difference in the height of the rotors.I also used GM A body disc brake wheels. It all worked out very well.:crazy:D:cheers
 

MRHP

 
Supporting Member 1
#8
58Delivery- M.I.A.?

I tried to P.M. 58Delivery but it would not work. If anybody knows him, let him know I would like a quote. Thanks!
 

petepedlar

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
#9
Classic Performance Products have lots of stuff as well. That's where I got mine and the parts & service I would rate excellent.

Dave
 

droptop62

 
Supporting Member 1
#10
Brian:
That's Auto City Classics in Isanti, MN. GREAT people!!! You shouldn't have any problems there!!
They are very customer satisfaction oriented.
Tom over there buys a lot of my stuff. He has one of my 66 Chevelles, and he bought all my 62 chevy stuff, three cars all the parts and 1-409 and 1-348.

^
 

1961BelAir427

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
#11
Where ever you chose to buy from.....I strongly recommend getting a kit that uses brackets that do not require you to mount them between the spindle and steering arm. Usually these are one piece brackets...which are touted as stronger than two piece ones....maybe so, but I haven't heard of the two piece ones failing. They use the larger calipers instead of the little metric calipers that the one piece brackets use...and they don't require you to have the front end re-aligned. This doesn't seem like a big deal if you need an alignment anyway, but you have to shorten the tie rod ends so far to fit them, that you are not left with a whole lot of adjustment. I bought the one piece brackets from CPP or POL (can't remember which, but they are the same brackets) and after the fact realized my mistake. Yes they work fine, but for about $50 more...maybe less....I could have had a better system. Sometimes I wish I'd went with Wilwood and saved an extra 30 lbs. but I like being able to buy replacement parts at any local parts store. Just my 2 cents worth....maybe worth half that. :roll
 

1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#12
Where ever you chose to buy from.....I strongly recommend getting a kit that uses brackets that do not require you to mount them between the spindle and steering arm. Usually these are one piece brackets...which are touted as stronger than two piece ones....maybe so, but I haven't heard of the two piece ones failing. They use the larger calipers instead of the little metric calipers that the one piece brackets use...and they don't require you to have the front end re-aligned. This doesn't seem like a big deal if you need an alignment anyway, but you have to shorten the tie rod ends so far to fit them, that you are not left with a whole lot of adjustment. I bought the one piece brackets from CPP or POL (can't remember which, but they are the same brackets) and after the fact realized my mistake. Yes they work fine, but for about $50 more...maybe less....I could have had a better system. Sometimes I wish I'd went with Wilwood and saved an extra 30 lbs. but I like being able to buy replacement parts at any local parts store. Just my 2 cents worth....maybe worth half that. :roll

Which is exactly why I have been selling this kit excl;usively for the last couple of years. I use to sell the 1 piece, it doesn't compare to this design.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...362829685&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MESELX:IT

Keep in mind all the kits that use the Chevelle rotor, which is the only rotor that installs directly on a 55-64 spindle will move your wheels outward about 1"
I also designed and sell a zero offset kit that doesn't move the wheels outward.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...427319588&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK:MESELX:IT

I also only use the large GM caliper now instead of the metric because of superior stopping ability.



Sorry for barging in this thread, I don't believe in vendors pushing their stuff on discussion forums and I always try to avoid that. For my punsihment call me and mention you're from this site and I'll work a little discount for you. The phone number is in the ad.
 

1961BelAir427

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
#13
I'm glad you spoke up. I have both those kits and your 2" drop kit on my watch list.....not going to be buying either for awhile, but I know I will be in the future. Wasn't sure which way I was going to go....all three look great, but was probably not going to go the drop spindle route. It's great to know that the ones I have been looking at are yours. I'd read on here for some time that you sold great kits at very reasonable prices. I doubt anyone will complain since you are just offering an expert opinion and showing people they have a better option. Can you give me more info about the zero offset kit vs the Chevelle rotor/large caliper kit? Either in a PM if it makes you more comfortable....or just as a reply so everyone else can learn too would be great. Thank you.
 

1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#14
If you keep your front wheel and tire size reasonable, the standard "Chevelle" rotor kit is fine. 59-64 big cars have good sized front wheel tubs. 15X7(prefer) or 15X8 with enough back space to stay away from the fender lip. No disc brake kit fits orig 14" wheels. You can buy repop wheels that clear disc brakes, or add nubs to a GM 14" rally wheel. The zero offset keeps the wheels inboard for clearance however create a few other issues. Since the wheel mounting surface has been moved inward an inch or so, wheel to caliper face clearance becomes more of an issue. Definitely need disc brake aftermarket wheels 15" or larger. 14" rallys should fit, maybe minor clearancing of the caliper bracket.
 

1961BelAir427

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
#15
I usually run either a 15" x 3.5" drag wheel with skinnies.....but sometimes a 15" x 7" with a normal sized radial....nothing larger than a 225/70-15. I currently use the Chevelle rotors, one piece brackets, and metric calipers. Could I just convert to the 2 piece brackets and bigger calipers and leave everything else? Also....didn't GM offer 14" x 7" rally wheels on disc cars that used these rotors (Chevelle and 67-69 Camaro) or where they all 15" with the discs? I know 14" x 6" rallys won't clear.
Some of them won't even clear the stock drums on our cars.
Also....does your zero offset kit use a rotor with a built in hub like the Chevelle style....or does it use a "hat rotor" that slips over a hub like alot of late models do?
Thanks for the help.
 

1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#16
The one piece and my two piece bracket kit both use Chevelle rotors, just different bracket system and the large GM single piston caliper. I also use the early Chevelle/Camaro(69-72 Chevelle and 69 Camaro only) calipers because the hose orientation is in the correct position to keep the brake hose away from the coil spring. Most all use the 1970-81 and newer big caliper due to it's readily available nature, but the hose points towards the coil spring and often is near to getting pinched by the spring. So you could just change brackets and calipers, probably need hoses also with mine since they are early 7/16" banjo, not 10mm. You'll gain back all the turning ability you lost with that 1 piece kit since the steering arm is in it's orig position.
The Zero Offset is a 2 piece rotor (hat) and hub assy, no OEM rotor works to do this. I use a fully machined steel hub, I don't care for the alum hubs on the market. Every one I have seen/tested was made out of 6061 which is way to soft for a hub and with the expansion rates being different between the alum hub and steel races, spinning a bearing seems inevitable to me. Race cars use alum hubs but they check/change their components frequently. A 4000lb Impala driven on the street needs strong components.
I don't come on this site every day so you may want to read my ads and call me if you need more info.
 

1958 delivery

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#17
14" GM rally wheels have disc brake clearance, 14" orig steel wheels for hubcaps (1957-1966) don't. It's not the diameter as much as it's the clearance for the caliper face.
 

MRHP

 
Supporting Member 1
#19
G.D!!! I ordered my brakes and some other stuff yesterday! I guess if it does not stop well, I will have to convert to the bigger calipers.Thats what I get for not waiting.
 

1961BelAir427

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
#20
G.D!!! I ordered my brakes and some other stuff yesterday! I guess if it does not stop well, I will have to convert to the bigger calipers.Thats what I get for not waiting.
Brian, If you ordered a kit that uses a one piece bracket and the small "metric" calipers that came on S10s, 80's Monte Carlos (A & G Body) and on 82-92 F-body Camaros and Firebirds.....I would highly recommend either returning it, or not using the calipers, brackets, and hoses that come in the kit. It would cost a little more to go with two piece brackets and the larger calipers, but the benefits are much more than just better stopping over the smaller calipers. The one piece brackets and small calipers really screw with your turning radius, alignment, ability to achieve good alignment, etc. If your car is already aligned....just the $50 or so bucks it will cost you to re-align the car after you install the small calipers would mostly pay for the bigger ones. The difference is where the bracket bolts to the spindle. One piece (small calipers) bolt between spindle and steering arm 'causing all the issues I mentioned. Two piece brackets bolt on the other side of the steering arm so they don't interfere with alignment or your turning radius.

I don't sell brakes or brake kits....just speaking from experience after using the small calipers and one piece brackets. They will work, but the other option is so much better. The only reason the one piece kit is on the market as far as I can see is to sell more of them 'cause they are a few bucks cheaper and the uninformed don't know any better than to buy them.
 
Top