Distributor weights

4onthefloor

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
Ok guys need another question answered since I A5FCAF76-4FE1-4A33-B53B-2AD91C0EB2DF.jpegcant go shoot rioters. My old dizzy has weights marked 37. Are these the stock weights ? They weigh 18.3 grams each. the springs were a combination of who knows what and a blue MSD spring so picked up a set of Moroso springs. Going to start with a medium and a light. Whatever was in there was only giving me 20 degres total at 2500. Glad I have time to play around with it.
 

427John

Well Known Member
You may want to check the center plate that goes between the weights,they have several different ones that are shaped different and are the mechanical stop for the advance mechanism.If your current one you have is for 20 degrees no matter what you do to the weights and springs it won't give you more than 20 degrees.
 

rstreet

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 17
I would get an old timer buddy who has a Sun Distributor machine to set that distributer up and tell you where to set the initial timing. Also vacuum advance is interesting to set up using the new replacement advance pot.
Robert
 

4onthefloor

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
unfortunately no Sun machine old timers aroudd anymore but tomorrow I will get out there and see what happens with proper springs. Initial was at 8-10 before and total was 20 so I am not in the zone.
 

dm62409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 12
Underneath the plate that the weights pivot on , you wll see a pin with a small bushing that moves in a slot. The length of that slot gives you the length of the ignition curve. Easiest thing to try is to remove the small bushing off the pin, that will let it move further in the slot, lengthening the amount of ignition curve. Hope this makes sense for you.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Pull the dist.remove the gear and take the shaft out and look at the limiter pin and slot.There's a rubber bushing around it,if factory]and those fail due to age.If the previous owner had it "curved",the length of the slot will have been brazed to shorten it's travel and the rubber bushing will have been replaced with a metal bushing.It's this slot/pin arrangement that provided the limit to how much advancement the dist.can reach,the weights and springs tell it WHEN to occur.Now you say that your limited to 20 degrees but is that dist.degrees or is it 20 degrees at the crank? 20 degrees in the dist.=40 degrees at the timing tab[crank].
 

427John

Well Known Member
So in your original post your saying that your total advance(initial+mechanical)was only 20?If your initial was set at 10-12 that would mean that your mechanical is only giving you an additional 8-10,which would mean that either your mechanical mechanism has something causing some binding or that the limiter slot has been brazed up an excessive amount.Based on the W's fairly fast combustion characteristics it requires less total advance than most other vintage v8's(~36-38),so if you can get your mechanical advance to give you 20 degrees of advance + an initial setting of 12-14 of advance should get you in the ballpark(32-34 total)with room to adjust either direction with your initial.If your combination requires less initial advance you will want to make up for it in the mechanical advance to keep the total where you want it.Now since I am a W newbie the ignition advance numbers are purely based on what I've gleaned from posts on here,since I have yet to get my build running with the attendant feedback,but the process will be the same,I also tend to like as much initial advance as I can get away with so if anyone disagrees feel free to contradict.
 

427John

Well Known Member
As a side note a good friend of mine has made his living for years as a low cost mechanic in a rural low income area where a lot of the population drove older cars with a distributor ignition,he once told me that at least 80-85% of the cars that came in had non functioning advance mechanisms due to being gummed up,he kind of got a rep as a miracle worker because he could get the car running much better with good power and economy simply by getting the advance mechanism working as it should at stock specs.My own experiences have given me no reason to dispute his statement,this is usually the first thing I check when trying to diagnose power or economy issues.
 

427John

Well Known Member
This discussion brings up a question I have,am I correct in assuming that the lower total advance requirements of the W engine also applies equally to total+vacuum advance?Or can it tolerate more vacuum advance?
 

4onthefloor

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
Pull the dist.remove the gear and take the shaft out and look at the limiter pin and slot.There's a rubber bushing around it,if factory]and those fail due to age.If the previous owner had it "curved",the length of the slot will have been brazed to shorten it's travel and the rubber bushing will have been replaced with a metal bushing.It's this slot/pin arrangement that provided the limit to how much advancement the dist.can reach,the weights and springs tell it WHEN to occur.Now you say that your limited to 20 degrees but is that dist.degrees or is it 20 degrees at the crank? 20 degrees in the dist.=40 degrees at the timing tab[crank].

Don it is 20 degrees at the crank. I monkeyed with it today but tomorrow I am going to take a look and see if the slot has been brazed. But I found the Lars method here and am going to try again. I am also chasing a running-on problem that has been there for a long time. I have a few issues to deal with. Will check back as things progress.

http://www.348-409.com/forum/threads/timing-on-my-409.18174/#post-152807
 

4onthefloor

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
So in your original post your saying that your total advance(initial+mechanical)was only 20?If your initial was set at 10-12 that would mean that your mechanical is only giving you an additional 8-10,which would mean that either your mechanical mechanism has something causing some binding or that the limiter slot has been brazed up an excessive amount.Based on the W's fairly fast combustion characteristics it requires less total advance than most other vintage v8's(~36-38),so if you can get your mechanical advance to give you 20 degrees of advance + an initial setting of 12-14 of advance should get you in the ballpark(32-34 total)with room to adjust either direction with your initial.If your combination requires less initial advance you will want to make up for it in the mechanical advance to keep the total where you want it.Now since I am a W newbie the ignition advance numbers are purely based on what I've gleaned from posts on here,since I have yet to get my build running with the attendant feedback,but the process will be the same,I also tend to like as much initial advance as I can get away with so if anyone disagrees feel free to contradict.
John, how many degrees does a stock distributor advance normally give ? Ignition timing is black magic to me. Its amazing how much stuff we forget as we get older. This didnt use to be so complicated !
 
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IMBVSUR?

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Don it is 20 degrees at the crank. I monkeyed with it today but tomorrow I am going to take a look and see if the slot has been brazed. But I found the Lars method here and am going to try again. I am also chasing a running-on problem that has been there for a long time. I have a few issues to deal with. Will check back as things progress.

http://www.348-409.com/forum/threads/timing-on-my-409.18174/#post-152807
The fastest thing to check for run on would be how far those throttle blades are open. Often people set the idle high to compensate for other issues. When the idle stop screw gets opened too far the carb throttle blades are left open. When they are that far open, that starts moving the carb off the idle circuit into the transition and air and fuel are not cut off when you let off the throttle. You can back off the idle screw in park and see if it still runs on.
 

427John

Well Known Member
Initial timing is the amount of advance the engine will have at idle speed and is determined by where rotationally the distributor is set to when the clamp is tightened down.The mechanical advance which is controlled by the springs and weights in the distributor,changes as the engine speed is increased this is what is referred to the advance curve.The amount of initial +the amount of maximum mechanical advance is referred to as total,and then you have vacuum advance also if your distributor is so equipped.The only time vacuum advance should come into play is at idle and part throttle cruise,under heavy throttle vacuum should be low enough so that there is no advance due to vacuum,thats where total advance is controlling your ignition timing.On most vintage v8's with slow burn combustion chambers optimum ignition timing under heavy throttle is typically 36-38 degrees ,since most factory initial timing specs are conservative at 6-8 degrees that means the mechanical advance needs to be able to give almost 30 degrees of advance to be optimal.Factory dist.seldom yield this much advance though, they typically will give 22-26 degrees and then not till higher than optimal RPM's(lazy curve).W engines lower advance requirements means you can expect see their mechanical advance yield somewhat lower than that with an equally lazy curve.So the amount of mechanical advance built into the distributor will allow you to get close to optimal total by increasing your initial,but you're still stuck with the lazy curve.Based on what you are saying about the run on and since what IMBVSUR said is absolutely right,I suspect your initial timing is set on the low side requiring your idle adjustment screw be set to far open to get the idle speed you want.As you increase your amount of initial timing your idle speed will increase and you will have to back off on you idle adjustment screw to get the idle back down,which may very well eliminate your run on issue.Your first step should be to set your initial timing somewhere above 10,preferrably 12-14,if hot starts show signs of the starter laboring or kicking back then its too far,get your idle speed set,and then start checking your amount of total advance using your timing light,check to see what the maximum amount is and see what RPM it takes to get it,this is where a dial back timing light will make things a lot easier because you should be out well past the end of your timing tab.Once you have this information,then you can start to figure what you need to do to get to optimum.If your distributor is of the vacuum advance variety make sure to disable it by pulling off the hose and plugging it while you do all of this.
 
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Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
I have been using that Lars method long before I knew that it had a name,it works.Jeff is likely on to something as far as the run-on is considered.John's suggestions are right on as well.
 
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4onthefloor

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
Ok was able to get some stats. With vac disconnected @2500 I set total advance to 36. That gave me intial timing @idle of 21. WITH vac advance at that setting I get 32 at Idle and 48 at 2500. front throttle curb idle is almost closed while rear curb idle is what I use for 950 rpm. Thats about as low as it like to go. I suspect that initial timing of 21 W/o vac. is too high but according to Lars its not that far off.
I did attempt to get readings with one spring removed but that increased no vac idle to 25 and the total stayed at 36. Then my trusty old Craftsman dial back took a crap
 
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Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
How much cam do you have in that thing? What carbs are you running? As to your timing numbers now,you should be close.If the engine has an upgraded cam,I usually set the total[without vacuum adv.]first at 2500-3,000,then back the idle speed back down and look at the initial as a future reference point when a quick check is needed as long as it starts right. BUMMER about your timing light failure.
 
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