Don's gone Crazy Stroker, 1966 C-10

plumcrazy

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Back from Orlando and already have a bit of progress, QUICKJACKS!! I know its a mere speed-bump for some of y'all, but its like a skyscraper height compared to what we've been used too!! If your considering a jacking solution and have low ceilings, want to move it around easy and or outside, this is a strong contender. Easy assembly, good to go....

On the task list, we spoke with Zack and gpheaders and to be sure we had good port openings for the heads, he wanted us to mate up a flange to Bobs head and take pics inside the runners. Here's how she looks... To me, its just the two inners so 4,6 or 3,5 that he needs to move the port openings down a hair and should be set....

Used the crow foot (killer idea) on the hydrolic clutch bearing and bled the lines with the vacuum you see in the pic. Today, we'll have Jeanne or a kid come down and push so i can take a quick video of it engaging and share. .That will be a big win for us, getting the clutch right after moving it...It was a pain to get the master push rod to line up when depressing the peddle and not contorting something.

Pics to come later tonight....
 

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plumcrazy

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Made a bit of progress today. Installed the radiator, plugged up the tranny ports and finished the wiring.

I added two painless fan relays and ran power into the relay from the fuse panel, out to the fan. For control i wired from the ECU to the relays for FAN 1 and FAN 2. I'll program them so the second only comes on at 190 and shuts down at the same with a 5 min run time. Hope that's about right so its not cycling.

Anyone know the right rad hose to order for the top and bottom?

Also was able to use up the belts on hand and went PS, then crank =>WP => alt... I can order a replacement belt for the crank => PS to loop in the WP for the next pass.
 

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plumcrazy

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Hey hey, quick build update.

I thought I had all the belt issues solved and was home free until yesterday when I was trying to do final fitment and lock 'er'all down...

The stock alt bracket that I bought was for a stock setup and cast headers which wraps around on the side of the head using the header bolts to lock down. With the header setup were using, that wasn't really a good option and didnt want to be figuring out stuff later so came up with whats in the pics below.

The solution I came up with was to add a plate (last pic) to the front of the head giving the alternator bottom bracket another point to secure it and tightened everything down. I now have about 1/2" play in the belts a nothing looks like it will rub. Hope this works...


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Skip FIx

Well Known Member
I personally would not worry about getting the flange size smaller for the headers. I actual can work as a reversion step. AS long as you get the primary size tubing you want I'd just go with it. We dynoed a buddies 462" Pontiac motor with Edelbrock heads that have a small exhaust port(but it floes good) first with his 2" headers then some 1 3/4-1 7/8 step headers I had. Post size was close to the 1 3/4 size-the smaller headers lost 30 hp!

Larry Mereaux has a computer program Pipemax that can give you header design input.

I had talked to GP about copying some existing headers I have in SS and as soon as I pull them off the 78 TA will have that done.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
I think that this engine was "pumped" with a set of 1 7/8 Hookers on it.A 2 inch tube on an engine of this size might pick up a few extra ponies ,not that it needs any more.:unsure:
 

plumcrazy

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Im.actually not sure of the header size carl used to test but did send the pics of the flange bolted on the head and talked to the shop about needing more opening in the two inner runners. You can see a slight step in those in the pics...

I was thinking that as long as the tubes match or exceed the openings and not blocking I was ok..

Is that safe?
 

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Skip FIx

Well Known Member
I'd go 2" at least. I know lots of the Engine Masters competitors and even sprint car making 600+ HP with 1 7/8 but I think the 2" on a decent sized motor with help it.

"I was thinking that as long as the tubes match or exceed the openings and not blocking I was ok.." Yep my thoughts also.

My RAIV 400 picked up HP with a 1 3/4 header over a 2" and had less reversion with them from better velocity but it was a small motor.
 

plumcrazy

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
A bit more progress today and this time with the fuel system.

Going with a in-tank return style system from Tanks inc and "loosly" laid out my fittings based on the plumbing diagram. I was short a few connectors, so got those on order and will have them by friday...

For the wiring, i have a question about the circuit breaker. For this and the fans, instead of adding a circuit breaker I went directly into my fuse panel. Is this ok?

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plumcrazy

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
You can if you are using a fused circuit, so you still have fuse protection.

Yes, sweet, thats exactly what were doing.. still have a bit of cleanup but replaced 100% of the wiring with a American auto wire kit and ran off that..

Had the rookie feeling I should ask because the circuits look different and rated the same?? Hey, never know..

I also added that small board below to take ignition from the main key to hit the ECU and ignition at the same time.. Thought it would be cleaner than soldering the three but no diagrams show all three in a car. They all sell individual stuff and nobody shows a map of heres what it looks like all at once..

Hope thats smart and cool but if not let me know and will change...
 

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plumcrazy

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Good news, we got in all the fuel line fittings and make a bit of progress...

Using the diagram I was able to measure out all my run's and installed the fuel pressure sender and fuel filter along the inner frame rail and out of the way. Went on to the tank and pump install next figuring it would let me know exact length of my final runs and make everything clean...

If you look in the pics I was lucky to have a door already prepped for the pump and needed to cut a hole and mount the pump. With the tools I had available was able to cut a hole and fit the pump fairly well.

Tomorrow i'll have to tackle the pump itself and measure the lines based on the tank depth, get that and the sock added. Hoping to mount it as a single unit in, connect the lines, re-mount the tank then connect the other ends..

Question, should i use permetex on the threads of the screws? I was planning on it...
 

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plumcrazy

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Cold day here in NH. Shop and hands stiff, coffee steaming and then it hit me, let me start my day by trying to press on a push lock. To efi fuel line... Seconds later, a nice knuckle buster helped me rethink my first thought , tomorrows another day and wend for a run....

;>)
 

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plumcrazy

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Not a lot of time today but managed to get the pump assembled and ran the return line. I used locknuts on the inside, hopefully that's fine and permatex on the treads of the stainless screws and the two connections in the housing......

Sould get more time tomorrow and finish the supply side and tidy things up.

Sounds silly but wanted to keep the outer frame rails clean so you dont see a mess..
 

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