With your awesome torque, adjust rear suspension set up and instant centre etc accordingly and fit the biggest meats under the rear as possible and gear from there
Don's gone Crazy Stroker, 1966 C-10
- Thread starter plumcrazy
- Start date
How long ago did you order your wiring harness? The FAST stuff I got earlier this summer was nearly idiot proof. All the connections were marked and everything was neatly wrapped in a wire loom. This is true of the EFI and coil pack controller.
Glad to hear their phone/tech support was good to deal with.
Their support is AWESOME!!.. We bought the system in Jan, just like you said the loom is high quality, love the connectors. Where we got stuck was there is no real blueprint to connect the parts to fit our application. ignition box, ecu, and dizzy together. When we finished with the support, there was 3/4 wires from the ignition box we didnt need, loom had another handful, and have white to brown connecting box to loom.
That one we need to recheck with support before we use it. Sitting here I cant remember but think it was RPM input to points.
Late start today, had a bit of work to do but avery and I got into it and have almost all the wiring run to where we want it. Cut new hole in the firewall for the main harness and run the connections close to their final termination points. Tomorrow well clean that end up..
On the engine, we pulled the plugs and started the bellhousing clocking and made our first and hopefully last mistake. Almost passed out!
To do the clocking you put a dial on the bell and turn over the motor slowly and take readings. I started with no plugs using a ratchet on the crank bolt and it started to rotate and felt it get tight and stop turning. It felt like it would stretch and snap so backed it out and called carl! The only method which we didnt do properly was to was use with a torque wrench and no more than 70lbs. If it clicks and your over, you stretches the bolt and its gotta be replaced..
Thank god we didnt snap a crank bolt, omfg! I walked cold and clammy around the yard for a bit.
No harm done carl gave us a great solution, put 4 studs in the front of the balancer and with a bar got back to it. Rotatea like a champ and our first reading showed rhe bellhousing off by .45. We divided that in half and threw in .21 offsets before dinner was called. Tomorrow will be a new day ;>)
On the engine, we pulled the plugs and started the bellhousing clocking and made our first and hopefully last mistake. Almost passed out!
To do the clocking you put a dial on the bell and turn over the motor slowly and take readings. I started with no plugs using a ratchet on the crank bolt and it started to rotate and felt it get tight and stop turning. It felt like it would stretch and snap so backed it out and called carl! The only method which we didnt do properly was to was use with a torque wrench and no more than 70lbs. If it clicks and your over, you stretches the bolt and its gotta be replaced..
Thank god we didnt snap a crank bolt, omfg! I walked cold and clammy around the yard for a bit.
No harm done carl gave us a great solution, put 4 studs in the front of the balancer and with a bar got back to it. Rotatea like a champ and our first reading showed rhe bellhousing off by .45. We divided that in half and threw in .21 offsets before dinner was called. Tomorrow will be a new day ;>)
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Well yesterday was that day! Seems like any big build for us theres a day thats on paper looking like a cake walk but turns out to be an royal pain, yesterday was it!
Clocking that bell took hours! The dial indicator was a pain to fidget with, have to get it flat on the flywheel but somehow trace the inside diameter of the transmission hole and not bump it with the dial housing, knobs etc . Couldn't get it too close or the plunger bottomed out, too far and it would run out.. then you get it mounted, avery turns the motor around and freak because it travels. 11 and divided in half its .055 and that's more then. 05 and start over..
The start over is taking off the bell, grab a wrench and with very quiet hands try not to twitch and turn the offset dowel pin just a degree or two, a hair on both sides.
Sounds easy on paper but its tricky and after hours wouldn't accept anything less than correct and luckily had all three sizes of pins and ended with .02 :>) which is in spec, wheeeeeew...
After that, we still had to take the bell off two more times. One to put on the clutch and pressure plate, then have to measure the bell hole down to the fingers of the clutch plate. For us that was 2.10 and then at the trans, put on the hydrolic throw out bearing and measure the face of the trans to the end of the throw out bearing, 2.10. Of it's more than .15 add shims. We were within so the bell comes off again, then you pull off the throwout bearing, and can finally install the bell for the final time, add the throwout bearing and connect to the engine..
Only bad thing, were ready for our first 5000 mile oil change cuz we turned it over a few times. Hahaha.
Today should be install day. We took our time on everything to this point, bay is clean and took a lot of time to mount the coil next to the booster. Had to actually take off the booster to drill the holes, but its away from the ecu and ignition box on the passenger side. We are a little nervous that the coil could hit the valve cover near #7, well see..
Oh, we backed up the truck on ramps to get more angle and notice the pressure plates. The one with the finger separation was the one we have been using so went with it again but they it is different from the other new one we had kicking around.
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Clocking that bell took hours! The dial indicator was a pain to fidget with, have to get it flat on the flywheel but somehow trace the inside diameter of the transmission hole and not bump it with the dial housing, knobs etc . Couldn't get it too close or the plunger bottomed out, too far and it would run out.. then you get it mounted, avery turns the motor around and freak because it travels. 11 and divided in half its .055 and that's more then. 05 and start over..
The start over is taking off the bell, grab a wrench and with very quiet hands try not to twitch and turn the offset dowel pin just a degree or two, a hair on both sides.
Sounds easy on paper but its tricky and after hours wouldn't accept anything less than correct and luckily had all three sizes of pins and ended with .02 :>) which is in spec, wheeeeeew...
After that, we still had to take the bell off two more times. One to put on the clutch and pressure plate, then have to measure the bell hole down to the fingers of the clutch plate. For us that was 2.10 and then at the trans, put on the hydrolic throw out bearing and measure the face of the trans to the end of the throw out bearing, 2.10. Of it's more than .15 add shims. We were within so the bell comes off again, then you pull off the throwout bearing, and can finally install the bell for the final time, add the throwout bearing and connect to the engine..
Only bad thing, were ready for our first 5000 mile oil change cuz we turned it over a few times. Hahaha.
Today should be install day. We took our time on everything to this point, bay is clean and took a lot of time to mount the coil next to the booster. Had to actually take off the booster to drill the holes, but its away from the ecu and ignition box on the passenger side. We are a little nervous that the coil could hit the valve cover near #7, well see..
Oh, we backed up the truck on ramps to get more angle and notice the pressure plates. The one with the finger separation was the one we have been using so went with it again but they it is different from the other new one we had kicking around.
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Junky
Well Known Member
What a clever idea, wish that I had thought of that! Now, I wish that I had been there to help. You would have only had to take the bell off once, because as my old girlfriend used to say, "you have magic hands"....
Really happy for you that things have been going so well. When I left, I had a bad feeling that you were going to be struggling to get that engine ready to go into the engine bay by the weekend. 
Better get it done between today and Monday night, because Tuesday is expected to be a scorcher in the high 90's. Junk
Wow, what a choir, but she fits!! We had to put it in, see where we needed to alter the firewall, pull it out, bring out the sledgehammer, but on the 4th go she fits. The valve cover has about an 8th inch on the back drivers side, TIGHT! We had to forfeit the current clutch placement so that gets added to the list, broke our coil, but the heavens finally opened and born a 1966 Fuel Injected 409 C-10. Kinda cool thinking that it should have been an option in the day.
Here's some pics and big thanks to Junk helping pull the other engine and Don getting this in! Getting closer!
Here's some pics and big thanks to Junk helping pull the other engine and Don getting this in! Getting closer!
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Hey hey, wanted to share an update on the truck!
Out biggest obstacle is headers, nobody around here can build a custom set so we went online to find a shop that does it... About two months ago we finished up mocking a set and shipped them out to have them welded up @ https://www.gpheaders.com/.. We got the call from Zack and he broke the sad news that out headers made it to him but were destroyed in shipping!! SOOOOO, all that hard work on your back, went to pot and he mailed back the elbows to try again. What a way to burn $158 in shipping!!.
No quitters here, we made another set and attached a few pics of what they look like and also constructed a inner for the box this time. You can see in the photos that it was a little tricky keeping clearance from the frame and also room for the oil filter, bell housing, starter etc.. Fingers crossed!
Out biggest obstacle is headers, nobody around here can build a custom set so we went online to find a shop that does it... About two months ago we finished up mocking a set and shipped them out to have them welded up @ https://www.gpheaders.com/.. We got the call from Zack and he broke the sad news that out headers made it to him but were destroyed in shipping!! SOOOOO, all that hard work on your back, went to pot and he mailed back the elbows to try again. What a way to burn $158 in shipping!!.
No quitters here, we made another set and attached a few pics of what they look like and also constructed a inner for the box this time. You can see in the photos that it was a little tricky keeping clearance from the frame and also room for the oil filter, bell housing, starter etc.. Fingers crossed!
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Those are some pretty tight bends at the ports.
Was there a chance you could bring the tubes over the frame rails and then down and back?
Was there a chance you could bring the tubes over the frame rails and then down and back?
Wow, didnt even think of that!!!. Looking at it now, i think that's for sure an option with a few cuts to the fender skirts..Dang...
They shipped today, $320.08! OMG!@!!! Looking back, i might have just been better off challenging our welding and had at it...Well report back on the GPHeaders guys...
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With the headers out for welding, thought it was a good time to start and tackle how to re-install the clutch. The pics tell the tale, we had to "encourage" (beat with sledge hammer) the firewall until we had just enough clearance to get in that hunk of beauty.
Does this look like an acceptable way of dealing with the ripple in the firewall? I did re-mount the brake booster and just barely cleared and made sure nothing touches the valve cover. (I did try to use a plate on both sides of the firewall and "suck" in the ripple and didn't budge, hard hard steel)
Thanks guys.
Does this look like an acceptable way of dealing with the ripple in the firewall? I did re-mount the brake booster and just barely cleared and made sure nothing touches the valve cover. (I did try to use a plate on both sides of the firewall and "suck" in the ripple and didn't budge, hard hard steel)
Thanks guys.
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Bit more progress, was able to move the clutch a hair and kept just a hair of clearance between it and the brake master. Had to hog out a little material, but we won...Today, someone that's asleep at the moment is gonna be volunteering for peddle pumping and they just dont know it, ha..
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Hi Everyone!
Kids were out with friends all weekend, shopping, so didnt get the brakes and clutch bled yet. Avery's going to help after work tonight and will post our progress..
Great call-out on the header material and talked to Zack there today, all set.. He's all over it, so far so good!
In the meantime going through setting up the plumbing for the truck and keep the heater. Gonna give Don a call but think you drilling a hole in the thermostat and hopefully the pics and numbers below represent the proper routing....
The thermostat - Drill 1/8 inch hole on dots..
1. Heater core input
2. Thermocoupler for stock gauges (FAST recommends this method)
3. Thermocoupler for ECU (You can see temp in the hand held display but day-to-day we want it looking stock and use the dash as it was ment)
4. BLOCK
5. Heater core return
Kids were out with friends all weekend, shopping, so didnt get the brakes and clutch bled yet. Avery's going to help after work tonight and will post our progress..
Great call-out on the header material and talked to Zack there today, all set.. He's all over it, so far so good!
In the meantime going through setting up the plumbing for the truck and keep the heater. Gonna give Don a call but think you drilling a hole in the thermostat and hopefully the pics and numbers below represent the proper routing....
The thermostat - Drill 1/8 inch hole on dots..
1. Heater core input
2. Thermocoupler for stock gauges (FAST recommends this method)
3. Thermocoupler for ECU (You can see temp in the hand held display but day-to-day we want it looking stock and use the dash as it was ment)
4. BLOCK
5. Heater core return
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I think one hole in the thermostat would be fine.