Drill size?
- Thread starter heddrik
- Start date
Took a wile to find it.
ttps://www.toolsource.com/spotweld-cutters-c-330_477/38-compund-spot-weld-cutter-p-115632.html?zenid=ofe1lm2qbugspd13mqi2bhh0t1
ttps://www.toolsource.com/spotweld-cutters-c-330_477/38-compund-spot-weld-cutter-p-115632.html?zenid=ofe1lm2qbugspd13mqi2bhh0t1
If you are trying to save the outside and not worried about the inside, just cut out side the line with a cut off wheel or what ever tool or torch you have.
Then you have a easy shot at the back side.
Then you have a easy shot at the back side.
Here are a couple different spot weld cutters I use.
Wow, quite a collection. Thank you. I looked at this car saturday, it s in a junkyard an hour from me and it appears it will take me a week to cut out the a/c portion I want. I 've never done anything like this, not afraid just unsure what to do. I need a portable air compressor and a pnuematic chisel to cut this out fast then take it home and finish everything. Has anyone here ever added factory a/c to a non a/c car?
If you can get some Co2 bottles, you could regulate that to run a air chisel.
Junky
Well Known Member
I put factory air into my 1964, back in 1964. I was working part time in a body shop that rebuilt totaled cars. We had a 1964 sedan that came in with factory air, and the car needed a complete cowl. It was T boned directly on the door and left fender. We put in a non air cowl from another car, and the shop owner said that I could have the air unit if I took everything off the car on my own time. I parked my car next to the wreck, and proceeded to remove everything, and bolt it onto my engine. When the cowl was off the wreck, I took all the dash parts out, and made paper templates as to know where to cut the dash in my car. When I pulled the evaporator out I made a paper template of the cut out. Placed that on my car, and made the cowl cut. I guess that I didn't get it exact, because after a few weeks of driving, the inner fender pan rubbed a hole in the evaporator tube, and I lost the refrigerant. I pulled the inner pan off, saw the problem, and fixed the aluminum tube with a 2 part epoxy.. It was called Metalset A4 by Smooth On. It is still available today, to my surprise. I dimpled out the inner pan to stop the rubbing problem. Back then, I knew nothing about air conditioning, and dirt or low compressor oil never entered my mind. It worked perfectly for the next 3 years, and then I traded it for a '67 Grand Prix convertible. If I were you, I would do what I did, just cut your cowl inside the template line, and file the edges till it fits. If you need an empty evaporator box to use for test fitting, I have a spare. I just rebuilt my air conditioning in my 1962, and had everything out, installed all new hoses, etc.. It is a pain to do, but worth it in the end. Just make sure that you take every nut, bolt, pulley, etc. Today if I were doing it, I would have a couple boxes of plastic bags, and markers to ID everything. The Factory assembly manual will also be a great help to you. I would also use the new barrier hose, and replace all the O rings with the new green Viton O rings. I would be happy to help you by long distance advise. One thing that I don't remember, is if I took the heater box also. My memory tells me no, and I don't know if the 1964 system is identical to the 1962 that I just worked on. I suggest lots of pictures, and take everything, even if you think that you are not going to need it. You will also need to have a few things re-built before you are ready to install and charge. If you are not into "originality", then it might be easier, faster, and less expensive in the end to put a new
Old Air System into the car.
Thank you sir, the pictures help a lot. Your stuff looks brand new! This system was exposed for quite awhile I'm afraid. I hav a 64 system too, most of it. It is supposed to be a little different than 61-62.I thought about doing what you did, not sure how it will fit the holes. I don't own a car -yet. looking. I'm not sure if the under dash parts will fit also. Your car looks fine to me, I'm no trailer queen myself. Thank you for the gracious offer of help, hope to take you up on it some day in the not to distant future. And yes, many parts will need replacement/refurbished. I just thot about cutting the original a c firewall because it was accessible in the wrecking yard.
Junky
Well Known Member
Get a saws all, and cut the whole cowl out. Cut along the floor behind a seam, and also cut the windshield pillars half way up. Unbolt the doors, fenders, hood, steering column, etc. and take it all. That way, you will have everything that you might ever need. You could also ask about buying the whole car, and it might be less expensive. Have them deliver it to you as part of the deal. Then sell all the parts that you don't want, and keep the ones that you do want.
Junky
Well Known Member
I'm starting to see how you got your name........sorry, just couldn't help it.
If you saw my garage, you would understand!
Please don't use my name and "dead" in the same sentence.. It makes me worry about going some where prematurely...
Thanks for your thoughts , all of you. It s a four door hardtop with no fenders, OK quarters but not much else. Trim is twisted, trim fasteners are missing or broken, floor and trunk rusty. Doors and windows only fit a 4 dr hardtop, correct? Didn t look at the rearend, car was a 327/pg so probably 3.08 or 3.36 10 bolt. Front bumper had no dents or bends so I bought it, along with alot of a c stuff. It s an hour plus south of me. It did have power steering, how and what can I remove from that?
Make sure you check the differential, my four door had a 3.08 posi in it from the factory. Trunk lid had the posi decal stuck to it.
Regarding tools, this reread might be of some assistance:
DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.
WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, ‘Oh sh–!’
SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.
PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.
BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.
HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle… It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.
TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.
BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.
STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.
PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.
HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit.
UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.
SON-OF-A-B!TCH TOOL: (A personal favorite!!) Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling ‘Son of a B!TCH!’ at the top of your lungs.. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.
DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it.
WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, ‘Oh sh–!’
SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short.
PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters.
BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs.
HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle… It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes.
VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand.
OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.
TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity.
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper.
BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge.
TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads.
STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms.
PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short.
HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit.
UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use.
SON-OF-A-B!TCH TOOL: (A personal favorite!!) Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling ‘Son of a B!TCH!’ at the top of your lungs.. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.
My sides are sore from laughing out loud. Woke my wife up, she asked if everything was OK!
Good one.
I had to share that.
I had to share that.