Driver's Side, Rear Box Brace

skipxt4

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 18
Getting ready, to install the rear box brace.:doh The old rotted one, has been removed.:clap What's the Best way, to accomplish this? I'm surprised, there's plenty of welding room. :clapMy main concern, is how much, to tighten the bolt, before I weld the brace on.:dunnoThanks.
 

blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
I guess I am not following you about tightening bolt before welding brace on. The way I did mine is to mark position of the old one before removing it up and down position and in and out .Then weld on new one with brace or cover ( think that's what you mean ) then put in frame rubber mount's and tighten bolt. You can insert your bolt and bushing to double check position of the box by where the bolt goes through frame ear to the clip nut in box meet before you do any welding. I had my frame out when I put my boxes in by using old one where it was positioned originally. .I was off on one by about a 1/8 of a inch but still was no problem getting bolt in through frame ear. Hope this makes sense.
 

ROYALOAK62

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
If you are putting new box braces. If I remember right on my 62, the 2 most rear & the 2 under the rear seat are in a complete boxes, with cage nuts inside the box on the underbody. There is no way to hold the nut besides the cage tabs if the cage nuts spins.
So before you weld in the box I'd spot weld the nut to the box brace. I've got one that spins right now with no way to hold the nut unless I cut a hole in the brace or floor.
The book shows 40-50 lbs torque.
 

blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
If you are putting new box braces. If I remember right on my 62, the 2 most rear & the 2 under the rear seat are in a complete boxes, with cage nuts inside the box on the underbody. There is no way to hold the nut besides the cage tabs if the cage nuts spins.
So before you weld in the box I'd spot weld the nut to the box brace. I've got one that spins right now with no way to hold the nut unless I cut a hole in the brace or floor.
The book shows 40-50 lbs torque.
They only spin after 54 years of rust.....:D
 

Jim Sullivan

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
If all of the mounts are new, tighten the box brace bolt down the same as all of the other mounts then weld it in. If you leave the box brace mount loose and weld it in, it will pull the body down too far as the mount is not pre loaded the same as the other mounts.
 

blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
If all of the mounts are new, tighten the box brace bolt down the same as all of the other mounts then weld it in. If you leave the box brace mount loose and weld it in, it will pull the body down too far as the mount is not pre loaded the same as the other mounts.
You have to be sure the body has not sagged if you do it that way. That is why i mount the box same as original one. I have seen where the boxes are rotted out and the body is resting on or to close to frame.
 

Jim Sullivan

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
You have to be sure the body has not sagged if you do it that way. That is why i mount the box same as original one. I have seen where the boxes are rotted out and the body is resting on or to close to frame.
Good point, I do check for sagging when replacing the box braces. With the two other mounts so close to the box mount, I haven't come across any sagging, unless there is lots of rust damage in the area.
 

skipxt4

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 18
That's exactly my concern.:doh Jim: The box brace, is the only New Part. No other, Rust damage.:clap Don: Took the old one out, (what was left of it) 7-8 years ago. No marks, to go by.:dunno
 

Jim Sullivan

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 10
That's exactly my concern.:doh Jim: The box brace, is the only New Part. No other, Rust damage.:clap Don: Took the old one out, (what was left of it) 7-8 years ago. No marks, to go by.:dunno
One way you could check for sag is take measurements at the gap between the straight section of the rear frame rail and the body. Starting at the rear of the frame rail and work your way frontwards, it should be the same gap. If there is a sag, pick a strategic point and jack the body up, I've used a floor jack and a piece of 2 x 4( I work off of jack stands as I don't have a lift), and use wood shims to hold the body to frame gap while you weld in the new box brace. This is done with the fore and aft mounts still tight.
 

blkblk63ss

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 5
That's exactly my concern.:doh Jim: The box brace, is the only New Part. No other, Rust damage.:clap Don: Took the old one out, (what was left of it) 7-8 years ago. No marks, to go by.:dunno
Took it out 7 or 8 years ago......:doh
 

ROYALOAK62

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
Just was thinking about this issue again.
Just what is the issue about where the box brace is welded.
Isn't that what the BODY SHIMES are for?

Dave
 

skipxt4

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 18
I didn't take any shims, from this Brace, when I removed it.:dunno The only part, that was there, was the bolt and 2 rubber grommets, all rusted together.:doh
 

skipxt4

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 18
You are right, Jim. There is more room, at the rear bumper area, than near this Body Mount.:dunnoThe Pass. side, is the same way, but the Box Brace, on that side, isn't rusted.:dunno2What I found out, by looking on the Pass side, the Brace on that side, is 1/4" up, from the surrounding metal. Right now, the Drivers side Brace, is 3/4" higher, just sitting there. I 'm gonna tighten the bolt and squish the rubber, down to the 1/4", and weld it. :dunno It's a wonder, I never got the crack, on top of the Quarter Panel.:dunno2 I work Slow, Don.:rollI get paid, by the hour.:confused
 

chevy man

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 9
I didn't take any shims, from this Brace, when I removed it.:dunno The only part, that was there, was the bolt and 2 rubber grommets, all rusted together.:doh
Skip, I'm surprised the quarter didn't crack with that mount being gone as long as it was. Was the trunk wall still in good condition where the brace welds on?
Ken
 
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