First Oil Change after rebuild

[Junky]

Here is a question that was posed to me. When do you do the first oil change in a newly rebuilt engine? Is it right after you break in the cam, to rid the oil of the metal that comes off of the new cam, or is it at XXX miles? I have done it both ways, but now that I was asked, I thought that I should pose the question to our experts.
I almost posted this in the political forum, because when it comes to oil, it can get as heated a discussion as with politics.
Thanks Junk

 

[63impalass409]

I always change mine after the first 20 to 30 minutes of 2k rpm run time then after the first 500! Cheap insurance in my eyes.

 

[Don Jacks]

Change oil and filter after cam lifter break in,then it would depend on the oil that you're using.If you you're running one of those break in oils,they say 500 miles generally.I wouldn't go past 1,000 miles on that first one.

 

[La Hot Rods]

I am on the change after cam break in, then at 500 miles band wagon.

 

[MRHP]

Cam break in, then 500 is good with me. I sometimes do it at 50 miles as well. Just depends how I am feeling tht day. Oil is cheap, parts are expensive, my dad would say.

 

[La Hot Rods]

My thought was, "oil is oil the lack of it was the problem", but then for some some dumb reason they thought it best to change it for the worst.

 

[Don Jacks]

The main reason for the change after cam/lifter break in is because the "Moly"substance that is used in assembly lubes,and cam break in coatings will plug the oil filter in about 30 minutes leaving you with non filtered oil going thru your engine.Of course if you're using a roller cam,this first step,along with the purchase of zzdp additives become unnecessary.Pay me now,or pay me later.

 

[61 Bubble]

Ah, I do it a little different.

First fire-up/break-in is done with a quality Dino oil with additives zzdp and break-in oils/additives. Then usually after the 20 or min to do cam on FT cams, and even USED rollers, I just swap out filter and run again for for a bit. There is no set amount of miles or time after the first filter change. On my more race oriented, it's 3-5 times to redline. One more streetcar stuff, it is more of a idea on how I was driving it. So basically 1 day at track or a couple "spirited" times out on street, CHANGE oil and filter. Again to a good quality Dino oil like Rotella was the one I used, but have heard it might not be as good as it once was. Again This oil would be fairly quick to change out again depending on usage. If your running harder then maybe 100 miles or 2 track weekends. But never more than a month of streetcar stuff.

THEN

A preference of your Synthetic oil.

We have found that the "magic" of oil doesn't usually go away to badly, but does get full of dirt and crap. That's why the filter change. We have found that usually after 3, 1/4 mile passes, most 0w2 are done MAX. We now only get 2 passes out of that grade of oil. Heavier stuff can last longer, but the old 20w50 stuff we stay away from at all costs. We never run heavier then 10w40 synt or 5w20 Dino in any of our stuff

NOTE: Filters are also something a lot of people overlook. I have found a bunch of research and seems like a very good filter and not huge $$$ though are the BALDWIN line of filters. FYI

 

[El Rat]

Just a comment...we raced a 4# car pretty successfully and used castrol 30 wt racing oil. They gave it to us so when we switched to the blown alcohol mouse I thought oil is oil so I decided to use up the 30wt. Well first pass it stuck every piston and blackened all 8 rod bearings. Geeze Louise my last effort with 30 wt. so moving forward we used 60 wt syn in the alcohol motors and 70 wt. in the nitro motors.
I haven’t decided on what to put in the 09!

 

[El Rat]

If you are a curious type cut the filter open. If you use a spin on cut it open with a hammer and chisel. You now have a “”window “ into the the health of your motor!

 

[Don Jacks]

Brad Penn 10w30 is all you'll need Gene.

 

[El Rat]

Ty

 

[Steven Morgan]

Why do you suggest staying away from the 20/50 are you talking about break-in or any time?

 

[Don Jacks]

20w50 is good for a very high performance street/strip or race type engine,but it's too heavy for an under 6,000 rpm street engine.It takes longer to get up to the bearings,especially when cold,costs more power due to the extra windage,puts more strain on the oil pump,ect.In an engine like Genes,it's a waste of money.A good 10-30 is more than adaquate here.My 408 small block was street driven and bracket raced for over 10 years,and yet had less than .0005 wear on the bearings and cyl.walls.Always ran a decent off the shelf 10w30.

 

[El Rat]

Things have evolved...when I started racing oil cans where paper and so where shotgun shells. Synthetics didn’t exist!

 

[Steven Morgan]

I am building an 09 as we speak. My old motor was a 10.5 motor, the new motor will be squeezed up a little tighter with diamond pistons. I had concerns about the 20/50 oil and clearances. it is very thick. My engine builder likes it but he runs a small block SB-2 at about 9000. I have pulled my valve covers off after setting all winter and the oil was still setting on the rockers. I have tried Brad Penn 10/40 in the past. Ronnie Russell told me to run a good off the shelf 10/30. I will break the motor in on Penn break in oil and then make the switch to a lighter oil. Hope I don't tear it up on the Dyno! You can always find someone with experience and knowledge on this website. Thank for your input.