Floor and trunk pan sources 1960 Impala 2 Dr hdtp?

brushwolf

Well Known Member
#1
My Impala 2 door hardtop originally came from Texas, then sat in Arkansas for years. I hauled it back here and now it is in a pole building in MInnesota. It has little to no outer body rust through. However it sat outside for years and water soaked carpets, etc., you probably know the outcome.

Most of my past floor projects have been done on late 50's era Ford floors and in all those projects I found that cars in which floor and trunk panel rust occurred from above (as in water sitting in it vs. rusted from below from salt, etc..), that the floor braces underneath were often still pretty good. Hoping that is the case with this car too. A quick inspection from underneath when loading the car indicated they looked pretty decent from below anyway.

I understand there are floor panels available for 59-60 Impala now and looking for supplier recommendations (or warnings..). In reading other project threads here, I see that later Impala cars have both 3 piece floors, one piece floors and floors with braces available for them. Are all these options available for replacing floors in the 59-60 Impala as well?

I have welders, plasma cutter, spot-weld drilling stuff already and have used it before. So, I know it is a lot of work, but I kind of enjoy it (or looking at the results afterward anyway...)

Recommendations for floor pan suppliers and options for this project? Like I said, I suspect my floor braces are ok, but if it turns out I need any of the supports then I would like to have a resource list put together before diving in. These pics are from when it was just brought back from Arkansas and it is inside the pole building now.

Thanks, Mike image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
 

brushwolf

Well Known Member
#2
Motor and transmission are mostly completed for it. Haven't put rocker arms and pushrods in the motor yet because I prefer not to have the sitting with valves open and springs stressed, etc.. Also haven't done carb rebuild with new bases and linkage because carbs tend to dry out gaskets sitting too long also.

3 bellhousings and transmissions were gathered up because I kept changing my mind. Car has a stick column in it so initially I thought I would put a Chev 3 speed with OD, then maybe use a Ford T85 OD with adapter bellhousing, but then I had that T56 sitting there doing nothing....
 

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brushwolf

Well Known Member
#4
I have gathered up lots of other parts, new badges, Impala emblems, new set of rear antenna's etc, new paint dividers for quarters because two were missing, and another trunk lid and nice rear bumper. Impala emblem was missing off dash and the rear seat speaker grill was gone too, so I have replacements for those..

Also have a bondo'ed-up Minnesota 60 Bel Air 4 door parts car that I got many years ago, just in case I ever got another Impala. The Impala I had many years ago was same color and interior as this project car, but I got broadsided when a sleepy fisherman driving an International Scout with a trailer behind Ran a red light. Pushed the door partially inside the car and the windshield even broke because the A-pillar also got bent. Back then you just got another car...

Most body parts don't fit of course, but the 4 door has very nicely preserved gauges (whole dash is nice..) since in MN the sun don't shine all that frequently and the 4 door also has the missing headlight trim and another front bumper.. And extra chassis stuff for any I might discover that I need.
 

303Radar

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
#5
The only manufacturer I'm aware of for the floor pans and other 60 parts is Sherman. My experience for my '59 El Camino is they have quality parts with a good gauge metal. I would search their site:
https://www.shermanparts.com/ecat/base/index.php
for your parts, take the part number and order it through Jegs or Summit, with their free shipping will be your best bet on price.
 

brushwolf

Well Known Member
#6
Cross-reference for myself or anyone else who cares on further floor panel discussion and driveshaft issues relating to 59-60 floor panel discussion using a T56, which is in 58-65 full size section....

http://www.348-409.com/forum/threads/driveshaft-issues-with-longer-transmissions.40539/

I requested a paper catalog from Classic (more pics than online catalog) and it came in the mail yesterday. Huge catalog with open pages in the back to make up your parts lists, or wish lists.

Apparently Sherman makes the Chev panels for Classic, but Classic has the 10% off plus the $25 coupon for each $500 of order, so will try to put together an order before their Holiday special expires. And no half floors available for 1960, so will have to go with the one piece floor and cut as necessary.

Should go out to the car (140 miles away in unheated pole building) and check out to be sure the floor braces are ok too, but doc hasn't cleared me for such physical adventures yet and won't until January sometime. So, will probably just order main floor and two floor panels under the back seat for now, plus a few few odds and ends that I know I will need eventually anyway, to get me past the grand mark.

Mike
 

brushwolf

Well Known Member
#8
Have looked everywhere on many threads but can't find user Tripower build on using T56 with the 348. Hoping to scrounge up more info on making a starter work with 153 tooth flywheel. Didn't find anything new yet, but found something old where Kevin Green 409 build used a modified after market starter..
 

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brushwolf

Well Known Member
#9
Looking at 348 block where inner bolt boss is reinforced for the bolt makes me skeptical about drilling the block next to the original hole because it is pretty thin on both sides. I had 3 blocks by the time I found one that wasn't cracked or blown up beyond repair. So, I think the starter mod is a little less risky.
 

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brushwolf

Well Known Member
#10
This is a Tuff Stuff aftermarket starter #6550A. Allegedly fits both 153t and 168t flywheels, but of course it doesn't bolt on because the 348 has different spacing between the block bolt holes on the nose end of starter and it also used a 3rd bolt in a staggered pattern.

Unless I come across a better solution I think I will use Kevin's plan modified lightly. Take the aluminum block off, bring it to a machine shop and have a hole drilled where the black "X" Mark is between the inner bolt holes and use the stock inner bolt hole on the engine.

Looks like the new hole in the starter mounting block will be dead center between the existing holes. Almost a slot, but not quite.

The only difference between this and Kevin's mod is that instead of a slot on the inner end, I will just leave the remains of two outer bolt holes intact in hopes of the new hole guiding the bolt more tightly and perhaps not weakening the aluminum block of the starter quite as much.

Will weaken it some anyway, but I suppose this is one case where I should be glad it is a 348, instead of a 409... Less starter torque required... Far as I know, this starter mod that Kevin made held up on his 409 and he is probably running more compression than me.
 

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brushwolf

Well Known Member
#11
Couple of flaws in that plan already. I determined where inside hole in the starter block would have to be drilled using inside bolt hole of the two outside holes in the starter block to position the starter.

Presumably, it has to be the outside bolt hole on the outside end of the starter block used for positioning, since the starter drive needs to be closer to engine with a smaller flywheel. Have to put the flywheel on temporarily to be sure too before going further.

Moving the starter in, then it's mounting block interferes with the oil pan lip, but does explain relief grinds apparently made on Kevin's starter block. New inner bolt hole apparently needs to be drilled inboard of the two existing inner starter block bolt holes, closer to the starter drive gear and not between the existing inner starter block holes.

This starter design is a little different than Kevin's, but it looks like there is room to drill a hole in the starter block on that side too. Also looks like it will still clear the top of the Allen head bolt that connects the starter block to the starter main body and allows for indexing if needed..

If the new inside starter mount bolt position doesn't clear the top of the Allen head bolt inside the starter mounting block, then changing the indexing a little outboard looks like it should cure that, if it becomes an issue. But it looks like it has just enough room in there..
 

dave1961

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 1
#12
Check Rockauto on pricing, I bought my 2 piece floor pan from them due to the shipping was 1/4 what most places were charging = cheaper total cost.
 

brushwolf

Well Known Member
#13
Thought I already had because I have had good luck with them previously too. Thought I had only found the quarter floor stuff earlier, but looking further this time I see the full floor at about $100 less and the pans under rear seat about $50 apiece less. Couple of hundred bucks less in total, though Classic's 10% off and $25 per $500 spent coupons brings them closer together in net cost on a $1,000 order.

Thanks, Mike
 

brushwolf

Well Known Member
#14
Christmas present for myself.. Placed an order with Rock Auto (Sherman Pans) for full floor pan and full floor section under rear seat, one of 3 trunk panels, seat support braces for front seat both sides and a new body mount kit. Freight was $149 on all the panels which seems reasonable enough, but they are charging sales tax now despite no physical location in MN.

Would have ordered the other two trunk panels, but they are currently out of stock and will leave that for a future order since I probably won't bring the car back here until the snow melts anyway. Meantime I hope to pass surgery checkup at the doctors office and get out there to more closely examine floor braces, trunk braces and inner rockers.
 

brushwolf

Well Known Member
#16
Got all the panels I ordered, they look good. Sherman parts from Rock Auto. Shoulder is stronger and pain-free, but so much snow here I am spending an inordinate amount of time plowing snow and never-ending kitchen renovation project. At least the house project is inside though.

As determined on another thread, the trunk trim off my BelAir 4 door will fit the hardtop deck lid. So that is another missing part that I don't have to think about any more. Now if only the snow would melt. Glad I built my attached garage with extra roof supports as I have a foot of snow in the roof now and more snow coming Friday and Saturday.

Hope spring comes early, but not expecting it as winter was unusually mild until January. 20190220_180951_resized_2.jpg 20190220_130748_resized.jpg 20190221_120120_resized.jpg 20190221_120135_resized.jpg 20190221_120020_resized.jpg 20190221_120103_resized.jpg
 
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