freshen up 474 not good

MRHP

 
Supporting Member 1
:eek: Pulled the 474 out for a freshen up. Got a call from the machine shop to come over. This can't be good. When I got there he showed me some bad stuff. Broken rings, cam and lifters pitting, timing chain loose, main caps fretting with metal transfer, and pistons with some very minor scuff marks! Holy $hit, a laundry list of problems. I told him to do whatever is necessary. 7500 plus rpm comes at a steep price.:grumble: I am considering to 4 bolt the center main bearings if I have to line bore. Is this a good idea? It will get new cam, lifters, chain and gears, all bearings and oil pump, run hone in cylinders and rering as long as pistons are o.k. I already have crank studded. Would a main girdle be a good idea? What about head studs. Anything else I should consider? I will set the rev limiter at 6800 from now on. I will bet that will help some. I have in my notes that the oil clearance for the rods at .0018-.0022 mains at .0023-.0025 and the rear bearing acceptable up to .0035. I don't have piston to wall spec but I seem to remember .004 to .005. I can not find any spec on ring end gaps. What are you all running? Am I close on this stuff for an abused street driven 474 . Yes it will see the track, but that wil be a rest for the motor considering how it gets driven on the street!;)
 
Could have been worse, Brian:doh .

in a phrase

too tight
Maybe a little too tight



oh, did I mention....

probably a little too tight



:p ;)

I would like to see no less than .0025", maybe .003" on crank bearings.
Piston to wall ?
.006" - .007" for hot street driven.
Those are big, bulky slugs.

As for broken rings... Usually caused by too much timing / detonation ( but you KNOW that better than I:bow )
 

Ronnie Russell

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Brian, .0025 rods .003 mains .005 piston to cyl. .020x.020 ring end gap ( I know, will get abuse about that but I have my reasons) Never used 4 bolt mains but I would think 7,000 rpms , it would be a help. Or you could set limiter at 6,500 rpms and not do this again. But youaintagona do that, I know. Good luck with it.
 

gearhead409

Well Known Member
Mrhp

just about all the blocks i have bought off of old time racers have signs of the main caps walking around on the block. if you plan on spinning the crank that fast in the future the four bolt mains would be a must do. if you have a fresh align hone on the mains, .0025 will be just fine but no less. chevys don't like tight. note, in my opinion there really isn't a need to spin your engine that fast for a street/strip set-up. 6000-6500 would more match the flow of your heads at 474 cu. inchs.
 

MRHP

 
Supporting Member 1
With the tune up and gears I now have 6500 is the sweet spot. No more 7500 blasts. I am sure that will help this new set up. How about ring gap. I have read that opening up the top ring makes the second ring work more effectively and produces less blow by. I have not used this practice. Have anyone of you? What were the results. I know there is a formula to calculate ring gap using bore dia. Does this hold true for the 409?
 

Ronnie Russell

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Brian, Sorry, ring end gap is debated by many. Each guy has his own opinion, sorta like best motor oil, spark plugs, etc. I have expressed what I use so you will get 3 or 4 other opinions. Will be up to you to pick one.
 

Ronnie Russell

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Brian, Sorta hoped I wouldn't have to answer that but a direct question deserves to be answered. For 30 or 40 years the expert knowledge was the 2nd groove ring needed to be tighter than the top. Several years ago the experts decided they had been wrong all those years and decided the top ring should be tighter. So being simple minded, I decided if the experts had only two choices and took them years to find out they were mistaken,, that squareing the rings was common sense. A few weeks ago I was discussing this with my machinist. He gave me a long explaination why the 2nd groove ring should be tighter. I said, ' thanks for your time but think I will stay with .020x.020. Not wanting to hurt my feelings, he said, " well you probably will be alright" . I knew I would be alright. been doing .020x.020 for the last 4 engines. Fast forward to day before yesterday. Machinist calls me . That was strange because I have no job in his shop right now. He said he had just got off the phone with the Fed-Mogul ring engineer . He said," Long story short. you want to know what the latest sugggestion from Fed-Mogul for ring gaps on a 4.372 bore.?" I said , sure. He said " .020x.019." We both had a good laugh. So, to answer your question,, I use .020x.020 simply because the experts could not agree. As it turns out, I got pretty close. But again, this is just an opinion and others will certainly disagree.
 
That's funny, Ronnie:p ... In my Stocker engine, I have groove spacers, and using a .017" Dykes top ring, 1/16" second. I did just as you did.... Actually going to .022" on both ( mine is now .074" over bore... .008" piston to wall ).
 

walkerheaders

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
my BBC is a 2 bolt block. yep, 906 hp on 2 bolt mains! am i worried? never. turned it 8600 in the boat. had some cap walk so we pinned the caps like a pontiac and used main cap studs. ( the kind that fit the windage tray) peened the cap registers and let her fly. next check.......no movement. you can buy 4 bolt caps, but i dont need them.
have a buddy with a blown alky 68 camaro with lenco. 7.80's @180 2 bolt block set up like mine by same shop. still alive after all these years.
 

tripower

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Brian, Sorta hoped I wouldn't have to answer that but a direct question deserves to be answered. For 30 or 40 years the expert knowledge was the 2nd groove ring needed to be tighter than the top. Several years ago the experts decided they had been wrong all those years and decided the top ring should be tighter. So being simple minded, I decided if the experts had only two choices and took them years to find out they were mistaken,, that squareing the rings was common sense. A few weeks ago I was discussing this with my machinist. He gave me a long explaination why the 2nd groove ring should be tighter. I said, ' thanks for your time but think I will stay with .020x.020. Not wanting to hurt my feelings, he said, " well you probably will be alright" . I knew I would be alright. been doing .020x.020 for the last 4 engines. Fast forward to day before yesterday. Machinist calls me . That was strange because I have no job in his shop right now. He said he had just got off the phone with the Fed-Mogul ring engineer . He said," Long story short. you want to know what the latest sugggestion from Fed-Mogul for ring gaps on a 4.372 bore.?" I said , sure. He said " .020x.019." We both had a good laugh. So, to answer your question,, I use .020x.020 simply because the experts could not agree. As it turns out, I got pretty close. But again, this is just an opinion and others will certainly disagree.

Ronnie, Would this same rule apply on a 348 with 4.205 bore?:dunno
 

Ronnie Russell

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
Dan, In my opinion,,,, yes........ Speed Pro recommendation shows .017 for top and .021 for 2nd groove for your bore size. ( moderate performance) If it were mine I would do .020x.020 but again, just my opinion.
 

Skip FIx

Well Known Member
From looking in the freeze plugs I'd sure think about Hard Blocking the bottom half for bore supprt twisting that much.
 

GOSFAST

Well Known Member
Ring Gaps and Strokers

Really no connection, just want to bring up some "tips"!

Pertains specifically to "Percentage of Rod Overlap"!!

There's a formula for determining "connecting rod overlap"! This is an area of concern when "stroking" ANY unit, but moreso when using a "small-main" platform!

Anyway the formula is as follows:

[Main Journal Dia. (plus) Rod Journal Dia. (minus) Stroke] (divided by) 2 = the journal (rod) overlap percentage dimension!

For a stock Nailhead it would "read":
(2.498" + 2.249" - 3.640") / 2 = 55% Overlap. (This one is included for a member's question up here)

A 454" BB would be:
(2.749" + 2.199" - 4.000") / 2 = 47.4%

A 400" SB would be:
(2.649" + 2.100" - 3.750") / 2 = 49.9%

A 348" "W" using a 427" crank (3.766") with the 348" main journal would be:
(2.499" + 2.199" - 3.766") / 2 = 46.6% (Still acceptible limits)

A 409" "W" using a 454" crank (4.000") with the 409" mains would be:
(2.499" + 2.199" - 4.000") / 2 = 34.9% (Needs to be addressed at this point, this statement means you must pay careful attention to ALL the reciprocating weights being used on the "topside"! You would want some extremely "light" components on top such as the pistons, pins, rings, and pin locks.)

A 409" "W" using a 496" crank (4.250") with the 409" mains would be:
(2.499" + 2.199" - 4.250") / 2 = 22.4%! (Not acceptible in it's present state, you would most definitely have to "up" the main size to pull this one off!)

What these numbers show exactly is this: the further you take the rod journal from the main, the "percentage of overlap" (this is the lower numbers above) decreases and has a tendency to sacrifice much of the crank's and brg's integrity and begins to create issues with "cap-chatter", center-main brg. failure from severe vibrations, and finally, fatigue. The higher the HP and Torque numbers go the worse the results will become!

For all up here considering "upping" the stroke maybe along the lines of a 454" or more on these 348's/409's, let me give you a few things to keep in mind!

You are working with a 2.500" main journal AND a 2.200" rod journal. For a 3.250"/3.500" stroke this is still a reasonable "percentage of rod-overlap" area to be workable.

Take that equation and factor in a 4.000" stroke and some "heavy" pistons/rods and you have a recipe for a potential disaster for sure! Most aftermarket pistons are NOT "lightweights", this includes "Ross's", by today's standards! We spend add'l time "lightening" these up some while doing the build! Light wrist pins are also mandatory. Most forged pistons (aftermarkets) for the "W" must be
"lightened" under the dome area above the wrist pins!

Remember, these are NOT you're "standard" 348's and 409's, these are more "race" oriented even though they may be "streeters"!


When you step up to the 3.766" or the 4.000" stroke you begin to run into much
"lowering" of this "percentage" thereby decreasing dramatically the overall integrity of the build and this MUST be addressed when the initial plans are being laid out for the build. In other words, this factor must be incorporated into the platform/program.

Most shops simply "machine" the mains to fit the "W" block. Alone this is normally not an issue, but becomes one due to the amount of stock removal from the crank in conjunction with a stroke increase. You begin to "weaken" the crank before you start the project! A 396" crank in a "W" would be much safer than a 454" piece even though it's often done!

Finally, with respect to ring gaps, we recently delivered a "pump-gas" 396" BB with .026" top/.026" second, and made 510 HP with 93 octane. This was a not a "fancy" build, but an "old-school" Engle-cammed (solid-lifter) platform. Winter's heads and single 4 brl!

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. One "major" tip here if you guy's go this route make certain you use a crank that has the "Center-counterweights" on the #3 main, I would NOT use just any old 454 crank, you need those 2 add'l c/weights in the middle These weights control the amount of "flex" the crank can tolerate! These weights also allow easier internally balncing to be accomplished WITHOUT any "heavy-metal" (Tungsten)! This goes back to the old days with the "Flatheads", if you could see these crank's they have center-weights also due to it only having 3 main bearings total! Ford engineering knew about this back then, it's called "crank stability"!!

Double P.S. "Happy Thanksgiving"!
 

Dond409

 
Supporting Member 1
future stroker!!

Thanks Gary,

I am planning a stroker at some point in the future. You bring up some very good points. That I will keep in mind when it happens.

Happy Thanksgiving!!
 

Ronnie Russell

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 2
I agree also. Great information. Sure glad I didn't read that 6 years ago before I built the first 4 inch stroke motor. 2 race motors . ( at least that's what I call them). GM steel cranks. External balance. First engine-- 10 to 1 cr. 2 years racing .... tear down for rings and bearings. After bearing inspection , I wished then we would have waited another year. Third year of racing. Engine is now on stand and ready to go back in . Fortunatly that has not been needed. 2 nd engine 13 to 1 cr. 2 full seasons on it. Scheduled for rings and bearings this winter. Total runs of both engines well over 1,000. That is a conservative number. Just lucky, I guess. 1st engine- stock weight pistons, 2nd engine. lightened by Ross. Would I like a trick after-market crank? Sure. Cannot afford . GM cranks have been good to me , again , probably just lucky. Garys information is great, wish I could take advantage of it , but will have to remain business as usual. Should I experience a breakage, might have to change methods. Thanks again Gary, your input is always interesting, welcomed and respected. BTW, rpms are limited to 6,200 although has seen over 7,000 a couple of times accidentally. I suspect the low rpms is reason why engines stay together. I think as a group. we have convinced MRHP to lower rpms next time around.
 
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