Front brakes

Kaycee

Well Known Member
#1
So I have replaced front wheel bearings and races inner and outers and shoes had my drums measured and they were way over the limit to turn. So I ordered a set of fronts from Summit Racing and they are Bendix brand , I thought allrighty we in business now .Pass. side is on and no problem ,the drivers side however is really pissing me off. Found the first drum to be a bad casting on face of drum causing grinding on backing plate, call Summit and they drop ship another one no problem. All excited and put the drum on and it gives a bad grinding at about 3/4 of a wheel turn S.O.B call Summit and they ship me another one. So I put it on yesterday and yeah you guessed it grinds also not near as bad but still enough to know that its not right. I can back the brake way off and it seems to go away until I drive it and the self adj. work and then they start grinding again. I was setting the brakes close ,hear them drag a tad then back off a turn . it because I never loosened the e-brake cable before adj. or ??? I am only trying to do the fronts and only the driver side is giving me fit's.GOD this has got me baffled
 

Kaycee

Well Known Member
#4
When drum and wheel are on and I spin the wheel, no noise but when I rode test and do a right hand turn it starts grinding on drvs side . If the hub was bent would I not feel it going down road what about a bent rim ? I have had a good road test at 80 mph and she floats nice and straight.
 

Kaycee

Well Known Member
#6
Well I rigged up a pointer with the wheel off a placed it close to the hub and it runs true . I took the pass. side wheel off and swapped them side to side drivers seems to be quiet now pass. side nicks the outer tie rod in a spot. I ground a tad off on the dvs. side and got it to quit but there was still a noise coming from the drum area .I am going to try a different wheel tomarrow . I never had any problems with this before I did the resto. just hard for me to belive bad hub or backing plate .:rubHell I don't know :wtf
 

Kaycee

Well Known Member
#13
Yeah I took the grinder to them spots and smoothed them out ,also there is a pad at the very bottom that has no purpose that I see I belive it is rubbing here as it is shiny , I tried to massage it back some but that sum b @@# hard to bend back . To me it looks like it has the same spacing as the pass. side plate. All bearing were replaced and the drvs side that I am having issues with is a little on the tight side.
 

Kaycee

Well Known Member
#16
OK I'll check soon as I find some help this gives me something to go on this week , funny cause I was thinking about them tie rods earlier looked ok but need a helper
 

Jim Sullivan

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
#17
Yeah I took the grinder to them spots and smoothed them out ,also there is a pad at the very bottom that has no purpose that I see I belive it is rubbing here as it is shiny , I tried to massage it back some but that sum b @@# hard to bend back . To me it looks like it has the same spacing as the pass. side plate. All bearing were replaced and the drvs side that I am having issues with is a little on the tight side.
Sounds like you may have a bearing issue. I would inspect the bearings, and if ok, swap the hubs/ bearings side to side. See where the grinding is. If it follows the hub/ bearing, try another set of bearings.
 

Kaycee

Well Known Member
#18
Well I tore everything back apart cleaned and smoothed out the brake shoe pads that are on the backing plate added a tad bit of grease to each pad. Took the advice of a heavy equipment mechanic friend and tightened the hell out of the hub will turning ,did this several times. Never have I tightened the preload this much before but after doing this it seemed to spin smoother and the cotter pin lined up perfect on both sides . Noise is gone for the most part I feel the grind noise I have now is the shoe contacting the inner most part of the drum only when I have a tight left turn . Will do some more look see in the next few days .