Had my bubble burst yesterday

Well they say no news is good news,found out yesterday my 409 block is cracked half inch below the deck on the right side. The crack is about 9 inches long. What really upsets me besides just buying this car is I drove it drove it and drove it hard . No leaks and never went over 200 degrees. Decided to take it apart and make it look presentable. The rear main leaked took the motor out ,pulled pan someone before me didn't use a gasket pan gasket oil pan and oil pick up full of silicone. Disassembled motor, was bored .030 over crank was standard. Besides crap in pan everything looked perfect, the valve guides had no ware to speak of. Now for my question, need some suggestions on repair and lets forget about JB Weld don't need a patch. Welding, Brazing, Stitching their's got to be more than one person on this forum thats experienced this problem, can't just throw the block away. Thank in advance
 

MRHP

 
Supporting Member 1
Are you sure it is a crack? My motor has casting flash in that area that could look like a crack, but isn't. Any evidence of leaking there? I have heard of brazing and stitching in that area with good results.
 

Tom Kochtanek

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 13
I had a block done recently, magnafluxing showed a few small cracks on each side of a standard bore 1965 656 truck block. Funny thing, one side had a three inch crack you couldn't see with the bare eye, when he went to close it up it "moved" and became more like nine inches. The other side went well, took him half an hour, the one with the "moving crack" took half the day.

Ended up costing me $500 or there abouts. Can't hardly tell it was done, and I haven't even painted it yet.

Good luck with your project, I hope it turns out OK.

TomK
 
Yeah unfortunately, Went down to machine shop yesterday, machinist took a horse shoe magnet placed it on the block sprayed powder on it and a crack approx 9 inches long appeared. What pissed me off is I wire brushed both side of the block before I took it to him because I knew they were prone to cracks it that area. He agreed it looked good when I brought it in, but hot tanking the block cleans out every little creaves and their could have been paint left in the crack when I wire brushed it. He's sending it off to a weld shop in the morning (or so he says) he's confident, but this build sure seems like its going in the toilet. At least I got some positive responce that they can be fixed. My paint guy was over this morning, he'll be shooting the car first weekend of Aug. says my prep work is good just wants me to scuff, it one coat of primer and wet sand it with 500. Cake walk.

"NOT SO FINE THIS 409 "
Chuck
 

Tom Kochtanek

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 13
Chuck: I think you should feel lucky that further inspection detected that crack, and that you are in position to make it right. Good thing to do in the long run. At least it gave you some fun before you dismantled her :). Good luck on the paint process. Block and then block again!

Best, TomK
 

region rat

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Chuck Once it's repaired properly you'll be fine. I think more of these cracks are caused by torque and fatigue than freezing. I'd add a torque strap or a turnbuckle to keep the motor from stressing the block. Front and back if you can.
 

lone 09er

Well Known Member
Chuck I fixed a cracked 440 once inside the lifter valley and got lucky, never leaked again. Did it with JB weld. GOOD LUCK.
 

models916

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 7
Moroso Ceramic sealer fixes some really bad stuff. Used to use it on the stock car engines. Pour it in, start it up and drive away.
 
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