Harmonic Balancer timing mark

[Junky]

I'm certain my puller is the cheapest they made 26 years ago. Haven't had any issues but if you torque that puller down and the balancer won't budge then remember the key way could get rust on it and make it harder to pull off. You can use heat but be careful not to destroy the junk balancer since they can be rebuilt. You will most certainly need to replace the front seal in the timing cover that the balancer fits in.

The engine was rebuilt about 2 years ago, and only has about 500 miles on it. Can I get away without replacing the front seal, and if not, does the timing cover need to come off to replace the seal?

 

[Jim Sullivan]

I believe my puller is a Lisle or KD brand, works just fine. I'd be less concerned about the puller brand than the installer. I'm pretty sure I've used the ball bearing washer from my power steering pump puller and a long bolt and nut for the installation. It's been a while.

 

[Don Jacks]

The engine was rebuilt about 2 years ago, and only has about 500 miles on it. Can I get away without replacing the front seal, and if not, does the timing cover need to come off to replace the seal?

In your case Junky,just lube the seal with a little oil or grease install the new balancer .Yes the seal can be replaced without pulling the timing cover.

 

[oldskydog]

300 hp did not have a bolt on balancer. If you have one it must have been added.

 

[Junky]

If it isn't a harmonic balance, then what is that large round hunk of steel that is bonded in the center to another hunk of round steel? Oh, that hunk of round steel has a line on it for top dead center, and so does the piece that is adhered to it in the center. These 2 marks are supposed to be in alignment with each other, and the center is about 1/8" off to one side of the outer ring mark. It appears to be pressed onto the crankshaft, and the pullies are bolted to it..

 

[Jim Sullivan]

If it isn't a harmonic balance, then what is that large round hunk of steel that is bonded in the center to another hunk of round steel? Oh, that hunk of round steel has a line on it for top dead center, and so does the piece that is adhered to it in the center. These 2 marks are supposed to be in alignment with each other, and the center is about 1/8" off to one side of the outer ring mark. It appears to be pressed onto the crankshaft, and the pullies are bolted to it..

I think Cecil might mean there is no bolt holding the balancer on to the crank. Just a press fit.

 

[Don Jacks]

Both true but drilling the crank is a fairly common practice that would have been done during a rebuild since it was fairly common for these balancers to come off at rpm.Doing so also makes for easier balancer installation.

 

[Junky]

I was under the impression that all the cranks were tapped for the bolt, but not all engines got the bolt installed. If it isn't tapped, can it be tapped in the car, or is the crank too hard ??? thanks...

 

[Jim Sullivan]

I was under the impression that all the cranks were tapped for the bolt, but not all engines got the bolt installed. If it isn't tapped, can it be tapped in the car, or is the crank too hard ??? thanks...

I drilled and tapped a couple small block cranks. Was pretty easy. As long as you have room for the drill, it can be done in the car. May need an angle drill?

 

[tenxal]

I was under the impression that all the cranks were tapped for the bolt, but not all engines got the bolt installed.

If the crank snout was threaded from the factory, it got a bolt. If not, it was just pressed on.

On a rebuild, I can't imagine anyone not drilling/tapping the crank snout for a bolt.

Press-on balancers are why one of the oldest rules in the NHRA rule book requires all balancers to have a retaining bolt.