Having disc brake problems

[ROYALOAK62]

Just installed a Baer power brakes system, 6-piston front & 4 piston rear. New brake booster & proportioning valve that looks Stock.
The power brake booster vacuum is from a vacuum pump not from engine vacuum.
Here is my problem.

When I start my car the brake pedal feels like normal power brakes,
When you start moving for the first time and push on the brake it’s still has a normal feel.
But from that time on the pedal feels hard.
The car stops, but with a hard pedal feel.
At what hole on the brake pedal arm should it the pin be in ?

Going to check the vacuum pump to see if the vacuum is working up to the 20#s it’s rated.

What other areas should I check ?
I see NO brake fluid leaks.

Any help would be appreciated.

Dave

 

[heddrik]

Sorry you are having problems my friend, I have no idea what the cause could be. Interested in your brake choice that looks stock however. Hopefully one of these gurus here will fix you up in no time. Good luck. Kent (My grandpa lived on 12 mile road I think)

 

[1958 delivery]

Hard pedal is usually lack of booster assist, either the pump isn't up to the task or the booster is faulty. Bad boosters are fairly common, even when you pay dearly for one from Baer. Low vacuum symptom

 

[ROYALOAK62]

Hedrck, I live near 14 mile & Crooks Rd. If you are familiar with area.
Here’s the engine with the new brake system. I didn’t want to use the Baer master cylinder.
But everything else is the Baer big brake system, must use at least 18” wheels.
The stock dual quad air cleaner hits the master cylinder, so I’m using a Eldbock one presently.
Thinking of Shortening the one air snorkel to keep the stock look, but that’s after I get the hard pedal problem figured out.

 

[heddrik]

I wondered about wheel size. Very nice engine compartment! That engine just makes everything else tight. I have seen many people with the master cylinder clearance issue also. Hope you get the problem fixed soon, time to drive it!

 

[ROYALOAK62]

For sure it will be corrected before the Woodward Ave. Dream Cruise in August.
The 18” front & 20” rear wheels with the low profile Goodyear tires are almost the same height as the 15” wheels with TA’s I run.
As for the valve cover clearance with this set-up, it better then before, as I now can roll the divers side cover out without moving the brake booster.
After the 4th I’ll check the vacuum pump to see if pumping the 20# it’s rated. If all is good then it time to change the booster.

Dave

 

[La Hot Rods]

What is the master cylinder bore size you have now, is it the same size as the Bear master cylinder that is recommended?

 

[blkblk63ss]

Just t in a vacuum Guage in line to booster and tape to windshield so you can see while driving. If petal gets hard then you can determine where problem is. Vacuum pump or booster.

 

[ROYALOAK62]

Just got back into my brake issues.
It is the vacuum pump.
Guess the pump I purchased isn’t made in the USA as it was at one time.
Anyway no warranty on it anyway.
Just purchased another one from Master Power Brakes (of course it’s on back order 1-2 weeks).
This is a rotary vane electric pump that is supposed to be half as noisy (43 DB )
We will see.
I just want the pump to work to the advertised 20 pounds vacuum.

Dave

 

[Carmine]

I feel your pain on this one. Not having enough vacuum to operate power brakes is a royal PITA. Just went through something similar with my '71 GTO. Considered a vacuum pump, but I really hated the cam that was in the engine. About 9-10" on a good day. Mostly, always less. Changed out the cam. Now have about 18" of vacuum and the power brakes work the way they should, Carmine.