Here we go

1964SuperStocker

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
The .550 max.lift deal was on the smaller bore 348 cu.in. based engines.The "out of the box" maximum is .600. If you're running more than that,and/or a healthy mechanical roller cam,both the springs and valves must be changed.
Thanks for the update. Need this information out there for everyone to keep in mind. I knew there was some binding to worry about with the springs not being tall enough and the valves not being long enough for the longer springs needed. :good
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
It's giving up.Gas in the fuel[and it doesn't take much] will cause exactly that kind of wear on new parts that haven't fully broken in yet Tom
 

SSpev

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Thats what I though Don :doh Looks like 100000 miles:facepalm
If I remember correctly all the lobes are .025 short.:grumble
 

SSpev

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Buildit ! good to here from you. I guess the taper is ok :dunno I get rotation of all the lifters. i'm still looking at rollers. Show car 0971 and 0972., if they are avaliable.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Are you looking for hyd.or solid rollers,Tom? The part numbers that you mentioned are no longer listed.Note,DO NOT get any of the .300 tall rollers as there will be push rod issues if you do.
 

SSpev

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Don, that would be solid. Love the sound, want to experience the old style. I sent a note to SC asking if they could be had. What is the problem with .300 tall rollers?
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
The angles that the extra .300 causes the push rod to enter the lifters causes iterferance with the push rod at the point where the link bars are attached.You may remember when a few years back that Ray[Fatride] ran into this and he and Ronnie Russell figured it out.There is a thread in here some where.The .300 long stuff came along in order to service the later model big and small block blocks that had factory equipped hyd.roller lifters.No biggie when used in early small and big blocks,but won't work on a W.
 

boxerdog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
Also, be certain that you aren't getting a set of SBC rollers; the tie bar may be too short and restrict lifter travel. I think the correct lifters are actually short SBC lifters with Ford 351 tie bars, or something similar.
 

boxerdog

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 5
My Crower solids did too, but I saw a set of retrofit hydraulic rollers that did not, not sure of the brand. So now I check all of them, especially with anything that has any lift. That would be an ugly failure if the tie bar got pulled apart.
 

SSpev

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Took my block and crank in for machining. Cutting one deck 13 then cutting pistons 27 to get 0 deck.:pray
Crank may go 40 or off set a little:confused or worse case turn 50 to save my crank.:facepalm
 

El Rat

Well Known Member
Be careful when cutting the decks unevenly GM didn’t miss that much very often. My approach to zero deck was to bush the rods.
 

SSpev

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Back when I did this, the pistons were custom spec by a person respected by some and no longer by others. They where intended to be out of the hole .006 I measured them 14 and 27 out. the specer assumed 3.76 stroke was close enough. wrong - 3.766 is the real stroke. 6 out plus 6 more is 12 out. close to 14. the 13 cut should make things even. there is a lot to the story. if you want the whole thing search my old post.
 

SSpev

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
I got my crank and block back. All looks good. 10 on the mains and 50 on the rods. Got federal mains from summit Waiting on cam and rod bearings, clevite. Next, fit the crank, then check the piston height. I need to get a cam choice done too. Hope this turns out this time.
 
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