Hot/cold dilemma

El Rat

Well Known Member
Hi gents
On a 63 does the engine have to be running for the cold light to come on? I have changed the sensor and the bulb but key on and no light! What gives?
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Check the circut by un pluging the sensor,with the switch on,there should be a voltage[use a multi-meter] at the sensor connection.I don't see how running the engine would change it's operation,Gene.It sounds like an open circut some place.Have you tried grounding the sensor terminal to see if the light comes on,much the same way you'd test a low oil pressure light?
 

bobs409

 
Administrator
I think they all come on with the key in the on position to show they are working. Right?
 

La Hot Rods

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
Only the oil and generator light.
The warning lights are fed by the #18 purple wire from the ignition switch.
 

El Rat

Well Known Member
Ok evidently no power to the sender. The light is good and the sender is new.
Under the dash there is a green wire two actually that are connected to an “L” plug that is not plugged into anything. Also there is heavy black wire with a green plug that goes nowhere. Pls help.
 

La Hot Rods

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
If you just replaced the engine side, you could still have a problem with the inside half of the connector.
 

La Hot Rods

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
I would unplug that connector at the fire wall, then ground the appropriate socket in the fire wall connector to see what happen's.
If no light then you know you need to get under the dash.
 

El Rat

Well Known Member
I’m almost positive the problem is under the dash. I have mechanical gauges but want the lights to work.
 

La Hot Rods

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 15
The wires from the warning lights should be factory wrapped harness from the gauge cluster all the way to the back of the fuse panel.
So any added tape in the harness would be a place to look for a cut wire.
 
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