Ignition switch

[Carmine]

Hi everyone. I think the ignition switch in my '62 is original and starting to wear out some. I sometimes have to try it 2-3 times before the starter will engage. It doesn't happen all the time. Seems to happen more after running it a awhile, shutting it off and starting again. Don't recall it happening when cold. The starter is new and the grounding is good but I will check the wiring again. Regardless, I want to install a new switch. I see that several vendors sell them. I was wondering if you replaced yours, what your experience was. Where did you buy it?? Happy with it?? Anyone that I should avoid because of poor quality?? I know a lot of stuff is made in China, but I'm not sure what my choices are. Thank you kindly, Carmine.

 

[Jim Sullivan]

Carmine, what are the symptoms when the car won't start? Does the starter click? Or nothing?

I had to wire in a Ford style starter relay into to the wiring with a mini starter. Before this when the engine was hot the starter would only click. When cold it started fine.

I haven't had a bad ignition switch before but we have had problems with a poor connection at the firewall bulk head connector. Make sure the contacts are clean and plugged in tight. When we have a car that won't start(not even a click at the starter), first thing to do is wiggle the bulk head connector and retry.

 

[Carmine]

I don't recall it ever happening when the engine was cold although it could have. Seems to happen moreso after I drive it a while, shut it off and 10-15 minutes later, try to start it. The oil and generator lights come on but no clicking from the starter at all. I have to try to start it and release the switch 2-3 times before the starter engages. It doesn't happen every time. Maybe 50/50. It almost makes me believe that it is wire or ground related, but that switch I'm assuming is the original and maybe showing signs of its age . I'll check all the connections before changing anything. I did put a new starter in this about 2 months ago and maybe a wire came loose a little. I also recall packing those bulk head connectors with a silicone substance that I thought was for conducting electricity and it wasn't. Moreso to seal out moisture but I didn't know any better at that time. I cleaned them out as best possible with toothpicks and Q-tips. Hope that's not coming back to haunt me, Carmine.

 

[Don Jacks]

It sounds to me that it's more than likely a "heat soak" problem with the starter solanoid.

 

[skipxt4]

I don't keep my car, in a conventional garage.It's a Cover-it portable garage. Without going into specifics, it is always damp in there. When spring arrived, I journeyed out to the car, to get it started. First thing I noticed. Two blown fuses. Took the bad fuses out, and noticed all the fuse blades, in the fusebox were rusty. Pulled the two bulkhead connectors out, and all the contacts were rusted there also. Sprayed all the contacts, with penetrating oil, and using a small brass brush, cleaned them all. Gave them all, a short blast of compressed air, and sprayed some silicon lube, on them. Plugged everything back in. Good To Go. Even the dash lights got brighter.

 

[64ss409]

It sounds to me that it's more than likely a "heat soak" problem with the starter solanoid.

I agree. I have replaced solenoids and it cured the problem for a while. I had better luck with Delco solenoids. But it always comes back. The mini starters seem to give me less problems.

 

[oldskydog]

Solenoid.
I used to have to use a screwdriver to jump across the terminals to start my 58.

 

[Carmine]

It sounds to me that it's more than likely a "heat soak" problem with the starter solanoid.

If that's the case, maybe I should try some product that shields the solenoid from heat. I've never used it before, but I have seen it advertised in Jegs and Summit. Guess it won't hurt anything, Carmine.

 

[Carmine]

Went to my local speed shop this morning and bought a product that you wrap the starter with. Its some type of fabric with an aluminum coating on one side. Suppose to be good up to 2000 degrees. This is held on by Velcro sewn into the material. Cut the piece I needed and wrapped the starter and solenoid. Not a lot of room between the starter and block. Got it to fit quite nicely and then used one SS band to secure it even better. Hopefully, this will cure the problem. While still on the lift, went over every bolt, nut, fastener, etc. that I came in contact with when putting things back together. Amazing how things get a little loose. No better time then now to take care of it. Also have the trans. tail shaft seal leaking . Not a lot. Just enough to aggravate you. Looks like a July repair, Carmine.

 

[Carmine]

I had previously installed a heat shield type product around the solenoid and starter and I never tried it. Haven't driven the car in a while. Lousy weather. So this afternoon, thought I'd give it a go. Went to start it and the lights came on. No clicking. No engagement. Turned it back off and tried again. This time it started. I'm going to check those firewall plugs but I really think its the ignition switch. I already bought one so I might as well use it. Is there a particular tool made/sold to remove the bezel around the switch?? I know you cold use a screwdriver and small hammer and tap it gently, but I'd rather have a tool if one is made. Guess that heat shield might have been a waste of time and money, Carmine.

 

[Jim Sullivan]

Hubbards sells a tool part number 6164IBT. I'm sure others do too. I have always thought about buying one but I usually just use a pair of needle nose pliers. They tend to slip off so the tool would probably be much better. If you do purchase one, let us know how it works.

 

[1961BelAir427]

Either way I wouldn't consider the heat shield a waste. Your starter will probably last much longer with it on there so that's a good thing.

 

[Carmine]

Hubbards sells a tool part number 6164IBT. I'm sure others do too. I have always thought about buying one but I usually just use a pair of needle nose pliers. They tend to slip off so the tool would probably be much better. If you do purchase one, let us know how it works.

Thanks Jim. I will look into that and advise. Yes, I guess the heat shield isn't a bad idea. Its on and going to stay there, Carmine.

 

[Carmine]

Installed my new ignition switch this morning. Only tried it once and it worked. Connected the first time. Also want to mention that I bought this switch specifically for my '62. It's different from the original.
Looks to be one that will fit different years. A little disappointing. The threaded neck that comes through the dash has about 1" of threads. The old had about 1/4". They supply you with washers to set the correct depth plus a washer that I don't have a clue as to where it goes. The instruction sheet is very weak in this area. The wiring harness fits the same, no prongs or wires leftover, but it doesn't attach to the switch body like the old one did. The 2 plastic tabs on the side are much too long. So, I got it on tight and went around it with duck tape to secure the harness to the body. The light is also separate with its own bracket. The old one had the bracket integrated into it. Guess I should be happy I could get a replacement and that it works. BTW, not made in China this time. This one is from Mexico. Things are improving , Carmine.

 

[skipxt4]

Carmine, did you buy the switch from Show Cars?

 

[Carmine]

Carmine, did you buy the switch from Show Cars?

Yes. Why?? Thanks.

 

[skipxt4]

The reason I asked, is because, some of the switches that for sale online, look like pure junk. I was having ignition problems myself, last fall. I went looking for switches on Amazon, and decided I'll buy it from ShowCars. At the last minute, I found a good used one, in my many boxes of Chevy parts. Yeah, anytime you need electrical parts, buy from Show Cars.

 

[Carmine]

Thanks for reply skipxt4. I thought maybe I messed up again. The switch seems to work fine. I've tried it 3-4 times, both hot and cold, since I reported last. No problems. Initially, I was just disappointed that it was different from the old one, but what the heck, as long as it works, you don't see it anyway. Goes well with my the rest of my "tribute" car, LOL, Carmine.