I doubt it as there is so much metal left. But I have a cover that I weld over the opening to allow the shaft to drop down. Instead of a flat cover it's curved. I have to make a new one now that I opened it up a little. The old one forced me to remove the drive shaft over the rear end. Pain in the ass.
Nice work, Mike. The old Delray really looks mean. So subtle, really shows why the basic '62 will always be a favorite of many. Well done, not just the appearance, but the whole job.
Car look's good and mean, might sound like i'm stupid, but i did not know they made a del ray in 62???? i know 58 's had del ray .Is that factory del ray trim on the side ????
58 emblems on a Belair. 58 was the last year for the delray. 58 was the only year that got Delray script on the car. Earlier years it was an interior option on the 210 models and denoted on the trim tag. Funny how many people never even heard of a Delray and how many had one just like mine.
I really like the overall appearance of your Belair. Great stance, looks just ready to take off . I like the wheels and tire combination. I was thinking of doing the headlight ram air thing with mine as well, great old timey look!
Well I guess we can wrap this up. I ran the slicks all summer and showed no mercy on the car whenever it was out. At least 3 full blast burn outs and 1-2 shifts every time I came home. I live off of a long frontage road. I checked the welds and bars and tubes every couple of weeks and found nothing going on. No wheel hop and traction is pretty good where the uppers are located. Half tank of gas in the cell in the trunk and I can light 'em up about 15 feet. Full tank and I leave about 7-8 feet if rubber. Rides good handles good with the rear sway bar. Never replaced the trac-bar…triangulated uppers and lowers hold the rear steady. Towel City pie crust slicks are as smooth as radials and the traction is better than the BFG drag radials I've used. I tried bead balance on the slicks but went back to conventional weight on the rims. Did bend the ears on the 1330 front yoke. Switched to a 1350 and a sacrificial oil hole u-joint because if something needs to break, better a $15 joint than a $120 yoke. Thanks to everybody for the interest.
Guess I can do an update on this. Another year and lots of bad driving. I like to look in the mirror and see where I left my mark. No issues anywhere in the drivetrain that come to light. Traction is great and the rear stays stable with the triangulated uppers and lowers. It's at a point where I will stop looking at it unless it makes some noise. Thanks
Greg Reimer did a older Chevelle 12 bolt swap into his 62 and detailed the cutting of the upper arms to triangulate them. He ran it for years. There may be a link to it here somewhere.