Geary Trussell
Well Known Member
What would be the result if the oil baffle plate under the intake manifold was left off on a W motor?
Intake manifold oil baffle plate
- Thread starter Geary Trussell
- Start date
Oil out the road draft tube. If not using valve cove breathers, it is important to use the baffle plate under the intake. If using valve cover breathers, you can plug the road draft outlet.
chuckl
Well Known Member
Ronnie, I have a 61 348 Tri-power with intake manifold baffle and oil filler/breather tube. There is no oil or smoke from the breather tube, but an occasional drip from the draft tube. What is considered to be a normal amount from the draft tube?
Chuckl, no smoke or oil from the brather tube tells me the engine is healthy. A few drops of oil on the floor is common for our old engines with a draft tube design. Nothing to be concerned with.
Geary Trussell
Well Known Member
My reason for asking about the intake baffle plate is that I had a sheet metal (aluminum) intake made and the maker devised his own design for baffle/breather. His design does not cover the bottom of the intake as much as as the stock baffle plate. My problem is I have smoke out the exhaust when I rev the engine ( more than should be). I am trying to determine if the smoke is due to the baffle plate design or there is a intake leak into the cylinders.
Geary,You might check your plugs.If there's a deposit on the center electrode,kinda like it had been swiped in the mud,that would be a good indicator of an intake gasket leak,or a bad valve guide seal.If the deposits are on the outer ring of the plug,it's usually a ring issue. If the build is fresh,it may be that you are using too light weight oil in it,and it needs s bit more run time to break in.
Yep, and some of that crusty stuff could fall in the lifter valley.
Geary Trussell
Well Known Member
Thanks guys for the input. The motor is a fresh build so there is a possibility that some rings are not seated yet. I will put in a clean fresh set of plugs and fire the engine and try to make a reading on the plugs. What would be a good run time on the engine to make the best reading on the plugs.
Depending on the type of ring,[cast or moly],500 miles should be more than suffecent.As to the plugs,if it's that fresh,check them after you run the miles so you can get a reading,right now they'll likely look like they just came out of the box.What type and weight of oil are you using? Unleaded gas can make them hard to read,but look for any deposits on the electrode tip and the plug case.Black[flat] will indicate too rich in the fuel department,Black [shiny] will indicate oil ,tan to out of the box will be about right on todays fuel.
Are you running a PCV at this time? If so, disconnect it and see of the problem persists. Are you running crankcase breathers on this engine? Rings are slow to seat with crankcase pressure. New engines need regular dino oil with ZDDP during break in. Should be run hard with a load.
Our fuels are awful and make it really hard to read the plugs thats for sure. Like Models said, engine needs some hard loads to seat the rings. Pound on it. PCV can dirty the plugs too so watch for that depending on how its plumbed
I can't believe no one has asked for pictures of your intake manifold yet. Not that it could be the problem, but just because we love that stuff.
348 Patchy build
Active Member
Does anyone have an Intake heat baffle available for sale? Mine is a little rusty.
https://show-cars.com/search?query=intake Call and see if they have it in stock.
