John Deere 4310, another long term project.
- Thread starter Jim Sullivan
- Start date
The frame reinforcement piece is from John Deere. And is one heavy mass of steel. Fit like a glove too. Should have come with the back hoe. About 1600 hours I believe. Runs great so far.
Last edited:
Here's one thing that I forgot that I screwed up along the way. There is a brass nut in the side of the plastic fuel tank. It is the mount for the coolant overflow bottle. Well, the bolt was seized in the brass nut. I figured there had to be a nice amount of plastic holding the nut in place. I spent a lot of time trying to cut around the nut. Trying to grab it to back out the bolt. Just kept spinning the nut. So I figured there should be plenty of plastic around the nut, so why not use a hole saw to cut around the nut and pull it out. Well there is hardly any plastics and I ended up with a 1" hole in the side of the tank.
I then had to figure out how to save the tank. Since the sending unit is in the side of tank and doesn't leak, I figured I'd whip up something that would use the same gasket. So I machined a piece from some hot rolled steel I had. So far so good.
I then had to figure out how to save the tank. Since the sending unit is in the side of tank and doesn't leak, I figured I'd whip up something that would use the same gasket. So I machined a piece from some hot rolled steel I had. So far so good.
Pretty sick Jim. 
That one part cost more than the entire tractor. (probably not even close) I'll bet it outlasts the tractor too!
Nice Repair Jim .......
Thanks guys. It was the repair or replace the tank. The tank is a real pita to replace never mind the cost of the tank. This repair cost a couple of dollars and a little free time before work. Luckily the tank filler opening is large enough to reach in and hold the slug in place while I started all of the screws.
I was contemplating using aluminum, lighter and easier to machine. But, I have no idea how it would hold up in the diesel fuel plus I didn't want to strip the screw holes if I had to really crank down on the screws.
I was contemplating using aluminum, lighter and easier to machine. But, I have no idea how it would hold up in the diesel fuel plus I didn't want to strip the screw holes if I had to really crank down on the screws.
Pretty sick Jim.
Don't ya just love speelcheck???????
Slick James.....Slick!!!!!Pretty sick Jim.
Since I got the tractor moving under its own power, I've been kicking around what else I need for it. I figured if I want to use the tractor to move a trailer around the property, I'll need a hitch. And if I use the tractor without the back hoe, I'll need a weight box. Of course I didnt want to pay a few hundred dollars for the box and then buy weights. So I whipped the framework up including a 2" receiver. Then decided to make my own weights. I used a 2x4 and some scrap plywood to make a form. Then cast 6 concrete weights. Rebar was used for a "handle". The weights are sized to fit nicely in the box.
Each weight is between 90 and 100 pounds. One 80lb bag plus a little extra of Quick Crete. And it is (Harbor Freight) quick hitch compatible.
Each weight is between 90 and 100 pounds. One 80lb bag plus a little extra of Quick Crete. And it is (Harbor Freight) quick hitch compatible.