Was always told that by the time you cut back the counterweights knife edge them turn the crank to 409 Main size radius the journals and finish that the machining would cost more than a new offshore made crankshaft
Looking to build a 348 4” stroker........
- Thread starter taws697
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Was always told that by the time you cut back the counterweights knife edge them turn the crank to 409 Main size radius the journals and finish that the machining would cost more than a new offshore made crankshaft
Just wondering if you are going to run over 6000rpm on your stroker motor? Ask your local motor shop and see what they recommend, they build motors every day. Mine told me that I went over kill on my bottom end (all forged) and could have produced the same hp numbers safely with a cast crank. I don't plan on spinning over 6000 with my stroker motor.
I guess I could put nitrous or turbos on it now that its beefed up but why. 500hp is still streetable and yet fun enough to bring a smile at the track.
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Would anyone want to knife edge a street crank? As far as I understand that kind of work is racing prep for high rpms.
We have a saying down here, " If Your Going To Jeff City, Don't Get Off At Ashland " 
Might’ve use the wrong terminology but I was told that the counterweights need to be re-contoured
I think you said it correctly. My machine shop said that at 500hp and less than 6000rpm, then a fancy windage tray and knife edge crank aren't needed unless the engine was spending all of this time at high rpm then that would be different. My mains were cut down to fit in the 348 properly but not knife edged.
If contouring was absolutely necessary it would have been done from the factory,which it wasn't except on their highest rpm race motors.Its about oil and air control in the crankcase and is worth power at high rpm's but at normal engine speeds it shouldn't be necessary.As far as machining an oem 454 crank the cost is dependent on the shop you use,cutting counterweights down, machining down the snout,and grinding the mains are fairly straightforward operations,recutting the keyway is probably the trickiest part.
I understand what you’re saying, talking about with the level of build......My only point was ......I was told that the cost of setting up a 454 crankshaft would be equal to or greater than the amount to buy an aftermarket stroker crank
If I recall correctly when I had one done about 12 years ago it was about $500 to have the crank work done.
I'm in Iowa and mine was way cheaper 2 years ago. $350-$375 if I remember it was below $400. I dropped off a 348 crank and a 454 crank and said make this look like that. Done 2 days later.
I think the prices to have the work done will very a lot depending on the shop. I too dropped off a 454 crank that was done but had a cracked journal and then another forged 454 crank that cost me 150 and told him to copy the bad one and reuse the Malory metal if possible. The shop I used was a little more spendy than some of the others around me but the work done was always spot on and that was worth it in my mind.
That is why he will try to save mine first.
It will be lucky to be 550 HP.
Going on a vague memory but I remember hearing that cutting cast crank to 409 specs would often result in the front snout breaking during usage. I could be wrong
