Need Some Opinions.

32witha409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Asked Howards about their spring load recommendation. Said 125-130 seat and 370-380 open. That is like a 437#/in spring rate at .572 lift.

Isky B-Hive 195-A recommended 380 spring rate for a street roller. I think I'll take Isky's advice. That will yield 139# seat and .352# open @ .555 lift.
Guess guide plate are a yes on this even though the head slots look good?
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
I like the beehive spring as well.Guide plates aren't necessary on this light a spring pressure.Just get a good thick walled 5/16 push rod and you'll be fine.
 

Tooth

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
In my opinion I would save the 690 heads for a high cubic inch 409, I’m building a 348 stroker it’s going to be a 409 the hard way and these are the heads I’m using for it. I have a comp hydraulic roller .560 lift and .230-.236 @ .050 around .290-.298 advertised duration. Ross pistons 10.5 with eagle 6.135 Rod’s, The block is being decked and squared to proper height for my shop truck. 33C3F41B-6C05-4E12-A668-7882AA0C8D7E.jpeg962FF22D-6000-419F-9E4A-89F94D4B86DD.jpeg34E0C21B-EFF2-4D78-9B37-4CF24ADF1B93.jpeg5C4BE5F9-1A9E-4DD2-835C-D714256C7FEE.jpeg Bob Walla aluminum heads.
 

32witha409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
In my opinion I would save the 690 heads for a high cubic inch 409, I’m building a 348 stroker it’s going to be a 409 the hard way and these are the heads I’m using for it. I have a comp hydraulic roller .560 lift and .230-.236 @ .050 around .290-.298 advertised duration. Ross pistons 10.5 with eagle 6.135 Rod’s, The block is being decked and squared to proper height for my shop truck. Bob Walla aluminum heads.

I'm using my existing 1147's. Saving the 690's for some other currently unknown build.
 

32witha409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
I have a lift for my garage coming in the 4th of January. The first thing I'm likely to attempt is to convert the draft tube to a PCV setup.
My question is does anybody know if the draft tube can be removed with the engine in the car? 60 Impala 348 4 speed
 

32witha409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Decided to take a peak at the floor pans of my Impala. To my eye they look 100% original right down to the seam sealer. 0 visible non OEM welds, all spot welds look factory, even floor paint looks OEM as well. Remember that I have nothing other than seeing many other cars of known origins to compare to. I know someone here has model/year specific knowledge to compare with. Here are a couple of photos.

IMG_5151.JPGIMG_5152.JPGIMG_5153.JPGIMG_5154.JPGIMG_5156.JPG
 

32witha409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
This is the wire channel cover. Looks like orig. red primer. Was not removed and masked during application of current paint. The brown areas in the formed stiffening ribs are bare red primer as well with some carpet adhesive on the white. the PS rear foot well looks the same. Wire channel cover pix.
 

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32witha409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
While I'm here, I'm looking for OEM 1147 sized, quality SS valves ( 2.06 and 1.72) for my 348 redo. I used Manley SS in my 409 but don't see the smaller ones. Any recommended sources? I don't like sellers that won't post specifics of what they are selling. I live for details while choosing parts and laying out a build.
 

Don Jacks

Well Seasoned Member
Supporting Member 3
Show Cars 160.00 set is a fine little valve for a mild streeter I just wouldn't use them on a healthy solid roller set up.I have noticed that they have increased the intake valve size from 2.065 to 2.09 which might save a head with somewhat beat up seats.I know what you mean about the lack of detailed info though,it stinks.
 

32witha409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
I guess the exhaust is the critical one, Manley for that one and some other SS variant for the intake.

@ La Hot Rods, Looked at CP, only see a BBC spec valve 2.06 but no other information on OAL.
 

Tooth

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
Decided to take a peak at the floor pans of my Impala. To my eye they look 100% original right down to the seam sealer. 0 visible non OEM welds, all spot welds look factory, even floor paint looks OEM as well. Remember that I have nothing other than seeing many other cars of known origins to compare to. I know someone here has model/year specific knowledge to compare with. Here are a couple of photos.

View attachment 90025View attachment 90026View attachment 90027View attachment 90028View attachment 90030

Very nice you are one lucky dog, how do the rear body mounts look? That is an incredible find and an incredible amount of time saved in repair!:good:appl Competition products is where I got all of my Erson parts... James in on it!!!!!! This might help:dunno2 remember this is a site for information...:read:thinkD32288C8-56C6-49DC-B644-721AF30C0EE7.jpeg
 
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32witha409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 3
how do the rear body mounts look?

The underside looks like the top side. The guy I bought it from had a lift, I spent the better part of 40 minutes with a flash lite looking for repairs, rust, or damage. Found nothing anywhere. I swear it is a real 65000 mile car. After I get my lift installed, I'll take another look at the rear body mounts.
 
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