Never a Good Thing
- Thread starter Ishiftem
- Start date
Usually happens when the rings butt, removes material directly from the ring face. In this case because the rings are designed to push against the cylinder wall when the fuse is lit there could be to much pressure with the early timing. With the C16 fuel you could fire pretty early without detonation. But then again I could be all wet.
Last edited:
Rings would be sacrificial may not show up on the cylinder wall right away.
Then the timing issue is out the door. Your right it makes no sense. But I do not believe ring butt. Never heard of locking out at 38. That's tough. How did you start them?
Separate switch for ignition?
I don't remember... don't think so. Maybe Dick can tell us. Just remember it was easy to start
Dave probably nailed it, separate switch for ignition, get the engine spinning and then flip ignition on. I'm not a fan of locking the ignition out but I never ran a drag only car before just street strip. Seen guys lock them out that run roundy round.
Mega cam would bleed off enough dynamic pressure also. My cams are probably puny compaired to yours.
MSD Timing Retard Control box. Takes out 20 degrees of timing until the engine exceeds 500 RPMS.
Did I have that box on the car or did you add it?
Ah, the magic 18 degree number.
Back to Dans initial timing experiment, just for fun.
Russ, the rings are butting for sure. Here is a pic of the top and second ring. You can clearly see the shiny spots on the ends where they were rubbing. And at .034 gap. I should be able to spray with a 300 shot and be ok. They butted with Diamond and CP pistons. The engine didn't smoke but it is evident that oil was getting into the chamber which is what I would expect to see if the rings were butting.
Ray, the cylinder walls will wear before the rings as they are much harder. As for the locked timing, the only time the engine is at low rpm is when I'm driving around the pits in first or second with out any load on it. I doubt that 33 degrees would cause a problem under that scenario. HOWEVER, when one runs into an odd problem, sometimes the solution is equally odd!
Ray, the cylinder walls will wear before the rings as they are much harder. As for the locked timing, the only time the engine is at low rpm is when I'm driving around the pits in first or second with out any load on it. I doubt that 33 degrees would cause a problem under that scenario. HOWEVER, when one runs into an odd problem, sometimes the solution is equally odd!
Attachments
You know I woke up in the middle of the night thinking about that. I added it. When I got the car from you there was, of course, the main power switch at the rear of the car and another main power switch within reach of the driver. There was, still are, three push to activate switches which crank the starter. One on the dash to start the engine, One inside the firewall I use to spin the engine while adjusting the clutch, and one on the firewall in the engine compartment I use to turn the engine while adjusting valves, etc. Then there is a toggle switch which actually fires the engine.
I don't remember if you told me you used the push button to spin the engine and then switch the toggle to start it or not. I just liked the idea of removing 20 degrees of timing to start it.
If you're interested Ray the MSD part number is 8972 and it's called MSD Multi-Step Retard. It's a few years old now. MSD has probably upgraded their retard boxes so the part number may not be applicable any longer. I'm sure they still offer retard boxes though.