New build 62 Impala SS

CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Finally finished up rebuilding my 5x8 utility trailer, I've had it for over 30 years, rebuilt the wood sides at least two times, but this time the frame was rotting in many places, so I thought it was a good time to learn a little about welding.
I still have my 62 SS floor to finish and this would give me some good practice. I have a good friend that came and gave me directions of which way to go. It was fun, I I will say welding is a art, I don't have yet, but I am a
great Grinder.. 000_0282.jpeg000_0285.jpeg
 

CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
So back to the 62 SS Impala, I cleaned up all my mess around the car, took all the shit out of the trunk, and back seat, took all the stainless and aluminum and put it in the trailer. The only thing left in the body was the two
1/4 windows to remove, and the padding on the roof and the bows. I got the windows out ok, the roof was one messy job, only finished 1/2 of it. Im going to put the rottisorie back on it again, and then clean out my trailer, and take it up the the sandblaster for complete sanding. I had scraped the underneath last year so it should be a quick and easy job for these guys. Then when It gets back in the garage, I can get to welding in the small patch's in trunk, and start on the floor. I think I'll also spray the body or most of it, with sealer.Its funny as to when you find energy and motivation. I bought this car to have something to do, and that is what its giving me, also something to connect to my car buddies.

I do have a question about the rear wheel wells, should I open them up before I take it to the sandblaster or wait to see how it looks after sanding.?000_0294.jpeg000_0293.jpeg
 

CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Finally finished the trailer, had to take it to the electrical shop, just couldn't get the lights to work. They found the problem, two bad fuses, and a few of my other mistakes. All is good and the lights all work. Back to the SS Impala, I got it back on the Rotisserie, I am still finding little things to remove, SS Bar, padded dash above it, Im amazed at how these parts have held up after all these years. After taking the rear 1/4 windows out I decided to do a little clean up of one of them, boy was I surprised, they were not show quality, but very nice driver parts. Im starting to take some things apart then if it needs
cleaning or sandblasting, I do that, then like the window channels, I spray with a silver
just to have a coating on it so it won't rust again. Took some 4-0000 steel wool and
went over window chrome, really was nice01.000_0297.jpeg000_0296.jpeg000_0298.jpeg
 
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wristpin

Well Known Member
How you thought about getting a cheap desk grinder and setting it up with buffing pads? I did that last year. Wish i had done it 30 years ago
 

CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Yes I have, I have at my use a professional buffing machine, but your idea has crossed my mind, as a matter of fact, I was just on Eastwoods site looking at them. Good idea.:think
 

Tom Kochtanek

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 12
I'm with you on that one. I've been "recovering" some flat metal parts that were left untreated (not by me) and have some surface corrosion. Even some that were coated with POR-15 needed work. I've got most of them cleaned up and re-coated now, but not with POR :(.

Have fun!

TomK
 

CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
This is funny, because I've been looking for this part for a long time, not knowing what it was called.
The members name is Brent Reese, he is charging $ 300.00 a pair. It seems a lot at first, but when
you look at some of the other sheet metal parts being sold, its a bargain.
 

CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Back at it again, decided to tackle removing the braces from the 63 floor I bought to use in
my 62 SS project. ON the 62 the front long brace(#1) was rusted on both ends of rockers and into the both front floor corners by seat attachment, so it had to go as well as the (#2) next brace, & (#3) brace, all rusted at the inner rocker about 8" in. The long brace by back seat (#4) was still good no rust either at the rocker or across to the other side.

I decided to to drill out the #1 long brace first, from the top spot welds, all the way through, thinking that the brace would come off easier that way. ? Dah... not happen
Turning the floor over and had to take my chisel and brake the spot welds away, doing
some damage. I should have had a tool that would slide in and under the brace, the could
be hit with a hammer. Any way, I did get it off, I do have a new brace to weld on. The reason for taking the braces off is because I need to put the extra bucket seat brackets onto the new floor pan. Also need to get the #4 braces if anyone has a set of these, let me know, I will have to buy new anyway. I think whoever said, there were 350 spot welds,? was right. Only about 290 to go. Cash
 

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CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Seat Belt Brackets, 2 of them are still attached to the sheet metal, others I drilled out the spot welds.
I will say one thing about spot welds. I hate them with a passion.





000_0304.jpeg

The Bottom two brackets are out of my 62 Bel Air, I believe their original.



000_0306.jpeg
 

CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
HI, For those that were brave enough to tackle the job of putting in a new floor pan or just replacing them and the brace's,
my hat is off to you.:bow For those that are thinking about taking on the job of doing a floor replacement, it can be done
by a person that is NOT super skilled. But its HARD. VERY HARD. The only reason I'm writing this is I see some guys are
asking is it possible? How long will it take? etc. One of the first things you have to do is understand how the floor is attached
to the CAR.? Sounds silly, but I really didn't know, until I started researching on this site, Paul's great Floor Replacement Blog.
And many more. It starts with the Rockers/iner-rockers/outer/rockers, and both ext. end rockers. Then comes the braces, they attach to the inside of the rockers, like arms , the floor has a lip about 1" wide that sits on top of the rocker and gets spot welded all down both sides, and up and around the back seat. With the 4 braces holding up the floor, they each get 20-25 spot welds each from the top of the floor through to the brace, these spot welds continue along the whole body front sides, across the cowl, the back seat, its what holds the floor in.

The 2nd thing I think you'll need is an indoor working space, I wouldn't try it outdoors. You'll need tools, WELDER. drills, cobalt bits, regular garage equipment, compressor, air cutting tools. More drill bits, I've tried the spot weld bits, didn't have much luck
with them and there expensive, I've found that the $12.00 - 3/8 cobalt hard bit worked best for me, always using a cutting oil
to help bit. I Always use a 3 step drilling process, 1/8 - 1/4- 3/8 . Find all your spot welds, mark with black pen, mash a couple
times with center punch, start with small bit and work your way up till you've broken thru. I bought a Lisel chisel , has two cutting
slides and goes straight or sideways ,using a:good big hammer.

3rd thing, you'd better be ready to work because this is not for the timid, its boring and hard on your body, hands, back. I've
been at it for weeks, not full days, but each day for 4 hrs or so. IM kind of like a pit bull, I hate to give up, and this is
what it takes to do these type jobs.

I think it would be easier to do two half sides, down the middle, and weld them together. AND THAT'S MY STORY. HOPE IT HELPS

STAN. :doh:good

Cost, Braces = 2 Long 4 Short $$ 500.00
Rockers. Both Sides. $$. 600.00
Floors. 2- 1/2 sides. $$
 

CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
I never have owned a Impala before, so here's my question. My 62 SS came with a bunch of outside aluminum body moldings, 1 set
of each, one with the SS machine swirl inserts, and one with just a color, are these the same? and can they be interchanged on the car.? thanks for the help. cash guzzler. :crazy
 

pvs409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 11
I never have owned a Impala before, so here's my question. My 62 SS came with a bunch of outside aluminum body moldings, 1 set
of each, one with the SS machine swirl inserts, and one with just a color, are these the same? and can they be interchanged on the car.? thanks for the help. cash guzzler. :crazy

All side moldings from 1962 Chevy straight Impala and Impala SS are the same anodized aluminum moldings.
The only difference is the SS moldings are not painted AND they have metal SS swirl inserts glued to the 6 side moldings from the factory.
The SS inserts are very difficult to remove (heat could work).
I have tried to remove the SS inserts and the glue that GM used is really tough.

I know I had Dave Kosmann (from Idaho) remove the SS inserts from some SS moldings that had him restore and then add new metal SS inserts that are made in Des Moines, Iowa and sold only to dealers who resell them. Not sure how Dave got the SS inserts off (I still have the used 62 Impala SS inserts - 2 sets)

I buy my SS inserts and trunk panels from Dallas County Parts from Waukee, Iowa. They normally have the best prices when compared to others who sell the SS inserts, SS dash pieces and SS & Impala trunk panels for 62/63 and 64's
http://www.dallascountyparts.com/index.html

To replace the SS inserts on the aluminum trim use only double sided 3M tape ---
  • 3M # 4950 VHB Double Sided Foam Tape (it comes in different widths) -this number is 45 mil (.045 inches)
  • the 25 mil tape is 3M #4930 Double sided Foam tape.
  • The sell 15 mil tape but it is too thin for the SS inserts
I have used glue -way to messy and hard to clean up and it caused some damage to the new anodizing on my restored Impala side trim

The tape does come in 15 ft long rolls 1/2 inch wide, 3/4 inch wide to 1 inch and comes in 2 inches wide rolls (15 ft long)---and it could be better to share the rolls,
I need some 3M tape for some SS metal inserts that I have.

Paul
 

CASHguzzler409

Well Known Member
Supporting Member 6
Thanks Paul, I was hoping you would give your advise, I did see on Ebay the new metal swirl for sale, 249.00, but did not notice
if it was to be purchased by dealers only. Im certainly not ready anytime soon, but after getting worn out with spot welding decided to
look at all my moldings. Also with the moldings came many strips of the swirl, in lengths of 6ft or so. As I have said before, we have a friend that is a professional stainless, aluminum, dent remover, and has access to remove anodizing, then buffing . He works at home and is reasonable.
 
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