Number 1.The block is the foundation of this build,so boring is likely necessary,as is at the least having the block squared up.I've been told that it takes,on average about .015 to accomplish this.It would be best to do the bore,mock it up,and then measure how much needs to come up to get the piston/deck height to a max.of .010 down.You need to find a machine shop that's familure with the 73 degree decks,and the rear cam bearing placement on these engines.Number 2.If the crank will polish out and get you in the .002-.0025 range on the mains,and .0175-.002 on the rods,do not turn it,just have it polished.Number 3.Rods,I''m going to recommend three options here,all using the K-B Icon pistons.The first piston that they recommend has the pin height set for the stock length rod,and they're much lighter than the factory piston,making life much easier on the rod.The second is a piston made for the big block [and 348] 6.135 rod,but you'd have to buy rods.The third,and my favorite is the piston made for the 4 inch stroke,use your 3.50 inch stroke stock crank,and a 6.385 rod.The reasons for that is that the piston is lighter still,and the longer rod gives you a much better rod to stroke ratio which has several benefits,the chief one being that longer rods tend to broaden out the torque curve considerably .This makes a very noticeable positive difference on a street engines manners.4.There's NOTHING wrong with the 817 head for your intended use.If the seats are sunk,or you just want the extra breathing,then enlarge the size of the intake valve from the stock 2.06 to the 2.19 from the high performance 409 engines.Show cars has stainless valves that would be fine here.On the exhaust side,stainless valve are fine as long as the seats aren't recessed too much.Putting seats in these heads is tricky,and best avoided if at all possible.I would have the area just under the valves opened up and blended into the bowl.Use 85 percent of the seat size as your standard here,it's worth at least 25-30 hp on a mild build such as this.5.Surface the original flywheel,no need to spend extra money here.You can even replace the starter ring on it if needed.6.Have the dist rebuilt,and a "performance curve"done,use an adjustable vacuum advance cannister from Show Cars,and a Pertronix conversion kit and matching coil.7.Forging only,see number 1 for recommendations.8.If you have all the original bolts,reuse them,if not go ARP,EXCEPT for the main cap bolts,get ARP's from Summit or Jegs for the old 392 Chrysler hemi.9.Camshaft,A near perfect camshaft for this package would be the 0950 grind from Show Cars for the intended description of intended operation that you've laid out.A better long term cam,albeit more expensive,would be a hyd.roller cam and lifters.Lunati makes a grind for a big block that they can transfer to a W cam blank that I think would be near impossible to beat on engine designed as you've laid out in a heavy car with headers ,on a rear gear ratio of 3.36.For a carb,go with the Holley Speed Demon 625 or 750.It's design and features make it a better overall choice for todays fuels plus it's cheaper.An engine as outlined,with either cam discussed,would put you in the 410-420 hp range ,by 5500,and most importantly the torque would be around 475 ft.lbs.,peaking at between 3500 and 4000 rpm.If your stock rockers are good,reuse them with the factory studs,and get a decent 5/16 hardened push rod that's at least .080 thick.