Rotella is NOT what you want to run in a flat tappet cammed engine
Oil for 409
- Thread starter Nutts62
- Start date
I like the Brad Penn in whatever weight is appropriate for your climate. It is pretty hot here, so I use 20-50 in everything "old". I also throw in ZDDP+ or CamShield with each oil change in flat tappet engines. Right or wrong, I don't have issues. However, I know everyone has their favorites. If I had to do something else, I would probably go with Joe Gibbs or maybe Lucas.
Oop's my bad I hadn't looked in a while guess I figured they would leave it in for the sake of the diesel engines,but i guess they have to meet regulations too.Don I get planning a roller for a new build,but i find it hard to justify pulling apart a perfectly good engine to do a retrofit,especially if you're happy with the performance of the present setup.Jim's right,neither Delo,or Rotella have zinc in there anymore.Of course,if one went with a roller lifter set up,you wouldn't need to buy "trick" oils or additives for your engine anyway.
ZDDP has not been removed from HD diesel oils. Reduced yes but, not removed. I believe the problem with the new diesel oils is an increase in detergents such as calcium. The detergents compete with ZDDP for space on the surface of your sliding parts and reduce ZDDP's effectiveness. As was already stated, too much ZDDP can increase wear. The best thing is to use an oil that contains higher levels of zinc and phosphorus as part of a balanced package that works with level of detergent used. Race only oils should be avoided on something you might not change the oil in for a couple thousand miles. They contain little to no detergents and will not protect against sludge, corrosion, or acids that can build up over time.
El Rat
Well Known Member
Why would anyone use 5 weight oil? I learned my lesson years ago when we decided to use up all the 30 weight racing oil left over from the fastest 4 pound car in the country
I promptly put it in my blown alcohol mouse and stuck every piston in the motor in one run! After that it was 50 or 60 wt. so viscosity does matter.
I promptly put it in my blown alcohol mouse and stuck every piston in the motor in one run! After that it was 50 or 60 wt. so viscosity does matter.
I use Joe Gubbs “Driven Motor Oil” in my street driven 409.
Dave
Dave
What Dave Said!!
Uuh Don would you add 10w-30 Valvoline Racing oil please
Robert
What about Castrol 10/40 with the edelbrock zinc additive added?
I wouldn’t use any additives. Oil is made with a specific additive package that is designed to work together. Adding who knows what can can have a very negative effect and do the opposite of what you were hoping for. There are different types of zddp. Some work at low temperatures and some high temps. Some in between. Who knows what that little bottle at the store has in it or how it will react with your current oil.
Racing oil has no detergents that are needed to keep your engine clean therefore have no place in street engine that is driven frequently.In Roberts case that racing oil is ok because it never gets warm.Every body needs to take what Dan's saying is 100 percent true.They're your engines,do aas you wiill,just don't say you weren't warned if and when the gamble fails.
A slight deviation from the oils question but I also use racing gas in the show stuff for really one reason and that is stability and consistency. But… I have had a couple of not running great issues at the entrance to the showfield but using hot AC plugs has apparently been solving that item. I have been tempted to use LL avgas as it’s plentiful and cheaper but why change what has worked well for a long time.
Robert
Robert
I have run Valvoline racing VR1 in everything since I can remember. They have always stayed spotless and clean inside. Including a boat that has had the same oil in it for 3 years. 
Must have a decent detergent package. 
I have also switched some old acquisitions to VR1 and it has picked up the old residues and dirtied quickly.
Must have a decent detergent package. I have also switched some old acquisitions to VR1 and it has picked up the old residues and dirtied quickly.
I use Brad Penn 10/30 partial synthetic with zinc. Get it from a distributor. Started with 10/40 after rebuilding the engine but had heating issues. Made a lot of changes including going to 10/30 to address that issue. Lost a little oil pressure but seemed to help with the heat. Have 40,000 miles on the engine with a flat tappet hydraulic cam. Heads or pan have never been off so I guess the oil is doing the job.