Victorniner
Well Known Member
I know this has been beat to death but was just wondering if you use a heavier oil say a 20-50 blend would this not drain slower than say a 10-40 thanks
Oil passages
- Thread starter Victorniner
- Start date
Victorniner
Well Known Member
Thanks pulled covers today to check oil passages was surprised that heads were 3814690 heads with aftermarket rockers everything looks brand new even still has paint overspray on springs from when engine was rebuilt. Still trying to get to the bottom of the smoking problem
Victorniner
Well Known Member
Should oil drains have standing oil in them
Actually they will ........to a point. The drain goes down and then makes a turn running up hill towards the valley. Because it runs up hill, you will see oil when you look down the drain. However, the oil should not be up to the top of the drain hole.
When I had my 409 engine rebuilt, I also had it started and broken in at the shop. Everything possible was to be adjusted at that time. After the engine got hot, it was shut off to remove the valve covers to readjust the hydraulic valves one more time. The machinist went to pop the bottom of the rear valve cover and oil poured out. Not leaked. Poured. He eventually removed the cover and you could see oil in a small valley below the oil return passage. He really didn't know what to make of it. Finished the adjustments and I brought the motor home. Installed it in my '62 and it ran well. Never forgot what I saw at the shop. Even though the valve covers never leaked, I just knew it wasn't right. I do believe I posed the situation here and received some suggestions which I took. Took the valve covers off, no accumulation at this time, and used a piece of old speedometer cable in a variable speed drill, working its way through all the oil passages, until I could hear it inside the intake. All had a varying degree of junk on the cable when I took it out. Even though these heads were hot tanked, it didn't unclog these passages completely. I only removed the valve covers once since then and I don't believe I have any issues.
I was curious as to the route that cable took once in the oil return passage. I had an old 348 head and threaded the cable through the passage. Kind of strange to see the twist and turns. Nothing directly through to the lifter valley. I'm by far any type of engineer and think it was a poor design. I was told they did it this way because of one head bolt location. Well, guess they did the best they could, Carmine.
I was curious as to the route that cable took once in the oil return passage. I had an old 348 head and threaded the cable through the passage. Kind of strange to see the twist and turns. Nothing directly through to the lifter valley. I'm by far any type of engineer and think it was a poor design. I was told they did it this way because of one head bolt location. Well, guess they did the best they could, Carmine.
Victorniner
Well Known Member
thank you so someone should make a sticky on this like how much cable do you use? what speed on drill ? how deep
I was just rephrasing it for you, friend!
Boy, it’s been a while since I did it. Probably about a 6” piece of cable or so. Go slow with the drill. The cable has to find its way through the passage. You’ll know when ur all the way through into the lifter valley. You’ll hear the cable hit the tinny part/bottom of the intake. Then work it back and forth but don’t let it leave the passage completely until ur done. Can be a pita to rethread it. I recall having to work the cable on one passage that was so clogged it wouldn’t let it go all the way through. Finally broke through. Appeared to be a combo of small gasket particles, gasket material and hardened oil/grease if that’s even possible.
Thank you Dan for taking care of me!!!!!!!
